Rust/Dust inside Distributor
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rust/Dust inside Distributor
Has anyone seen this before? I'm sending it off to Steve Weiner shortly but was shocked to find what looks like rust or maybe since its in the belt area, its dust from the belt disintegrating? Thoughts? Had the car about 2 years now and it has 98k and from what I can tell, the distributor has never been rebuilt. Ugh...
#2
Three Wheelin'
It doesn't look that concerning. They are vented so it's not surprising that over the years some moisture got in there, especially if you live in a humid/wet climate. After over 20 years of heat/cold cycles you get a little surface corrosion.
#3
Instructor
Make sure to have all 4 bearings replaced while the unit is apart. Many just do a cleanup and replace the belt. May as well do it right! I had to order my bearings from Germany as I couldn't find any in NA.
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Good you caught the issue. I have an antidotal insight I would like others to comment on. When ever I replace the cap and rotor I lube the mechanism and put a few drops of oil on the rotor shafts. Not sure if this helps longevity but my feeling is if the bearing seals are a little weak the presence of a little oil will forestall lubrication related failures. In the old days of mechanical points I seem to recall this was standard procedure.
Last edited by pp000830; 01-25-2016 at 08:46 AM.
#5
RL Technical Advisor
Good you caught the issue. I have an antidotal insight I would like others to comment on. When ever I replace the cap and rotor I lube the mechanism and put a few drops of oil on the rotor shafts. Not sure if this helps longevity but my feeling is if the bearing seals are a little weak the presence of a little oil will forestall lubrication related failures. In the old days of mechanical points I seem to recall this was standard procedure.
One is supposed to put a several drops of motor oil onto the felt pad you see at the top of the shaft every year or so. This lubricates the weights and springs (for rotor phasing) to prevent them from freezing up from corrosion.
#6
Good you caught the issue. I have an antidotal insight I would like others to comment on. When ever I replace the cap and rotor I lube the mechanism and put a few drops of oil on the rotor shafts. Not sure if this helps longevity but my feeling is if the bearing seals are a little weak the presence of a little oil will forestall lubrication related failures. In the old days of mechanical points I seem to recall this was standard procedure.
Check if the car stored by the coast, it would have to be right on a or a few blocks away? Also check for signs around the engine and under the carpets if the car was in a flood? Fresh water is fine.
#7
Rennlist Member
Good man! Its still a valid and necessary part of the maintenance program.
One is supposed to put a several drops of motor oil onto the felt pad you see at the top of the shaft every year or so. This lubricates the weights and springs (for rotor phasing) to prevent them from freezing up from corrosion.
One is supposed to put a several drops of motor oil onto the felt pad you see at the top of the shaft every year or so. This lubricates the weights and springs (for rotor phasing) to prevent them from freezing up from corrosion.
Trending Topics
#8
RL Technical Advisor
This is something I learned back in the early 60's when I started. Old school stuff.
Yep,...any engine oil will do. I usually get it pretty damp with 10-15 drops or so.
So, whatever motor oil were using for the car is fine..define several, like 3-4 drops?
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help guys. Got the distributor off in the mail to Steve now. Can't wait to see the improvement.