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Any possible complications with bergvillfx LEDs and HIDs??

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Old 11-05-2015 | 09:12 PM
  #16  
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One issue that I ran into with the HID kit was that my '95 993 had early (i.e. pre-xenon option) headlights so the plastic covers did not have the proper mounting points to attach the ballasts to. I ordered new covers and it was no longer an issue, but I recommend cracking open one of your headlight assemblies to see which version you have in advance so you aren't disappointed and having to wait longer like I did.
Old 11-06-2015 | 09:14 PM
  #17  
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i'm with you bob, i have tore's LED's and they are superb. he's working on a device to recitify getting enough load on the circuit. i'll wait for his solution.
Old 11-07-2015 | 03:09 AM
  #18  
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Thanks for the trust guys, I really appreciate this!

LED's draw a fraction of the current of normal bulbs, and changing all brake light bulbs to LED's will reduce the load on the brake light circuit. The cruise control unit will detect this as a fault, and will not engage. It is in fact the reduced current in idle (when not braking) that is detected as a fault, not the load when braking.

Using my LED's in a a car not fitted with cruise control car will not experience any problems. CC is more common in the US than the rest of the world.

I have done a lot of work on this, but have not found a suitable solution yet. Keeping one halogen bulb or the third brake light (if fitted) will avoid this problem.

A resistor gets VERY hot when braking, it has to be 6 Ohm to act as one bulb. Such a resistor will need a lot of cooling, and will not last very long anyway. I have abandonded this idea, and I am working on a bit more clever solid state solution that will instroduce a load on the brake light circuit when NOT braking, and disconnect the load when brakes are applied.
I welcome all that want to contribute in the design of such a device, I have not had much time to tinkle with this these last months, my 993 have been in a workshop for a engine overhaul.
Cheers,
Tore
Old 11-07-2015 | 03:27 AM
  #19  
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Thanks for then update Tore. Sounds like I should keep my third brake light as is for the time being then.
Old 11-07-2015 | 10:48 AM
  #20  
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The CC issue is a pain to me, more because I hate something not working than I use it much. That said, I discovered that it didn't work on a road-trip which was a bit of a PITA. I'm conflicted though because I don't want to go back to halogens.

G
Old 11-07-2015 | 12:49 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ToreB
Thanks for the trust guys, I really appreciate this!

LED's draw a fraction of the current of normal bulbs, and changing all brake light bulbs to LED's will reduce the load on the brake light circuit. The cruise control unit will detect this as a fault, and will not engage. It is in fact the reduced current in idle (when not braking) that is detected as a fault, not the load when braking.

Using my LED's in a a car not fitted with cruise control car will not experience any problems. CC is more common in the US than the rest of the world.

I have done a lot of work on this, but have not found a suitable solution yet. Keeping one halogen bulb or the third brake light (if fitted) will avoid this problem.

A resistor gets VERY hot when braking, it has to be 6 Ohm to act as one bulb. Such a resistor will need a lot of cooling, and will not last very long anyway. I have abandonded this idea, and I am working on a bit more clever solid state solution that will instroduce a load on the brake light circuit when NOT braking, and disconnect the load when brakes are applied.
I welcome all that want to contribute in the design of such a device, I have not had much time to tinkle with this these last months, my 993 have been in a workshop for a engine overhaul.
Cheers,
Tore
Tore, do you know how much current the CC actuator & controller need to sink via the brake light circuit? Looking at the schematic, they both use separate grounds so maybe a higher resistance pull down resistor across one of brake lights would be sufficient?
Old 11-07-2015 | 05:12 PM
  #22  
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Tore, keen to know when the cruise control issue is fixed as I have it and do use it!
Old 11-09-2015 | 02:04 AM
  #23  
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I have Tore's LEDs in all positions (including turn signals) except for two standard bulbs in Tore's rear fog-to-brake light conversion positions.
So,, LEDs in 3rd brake light, LEDs in outer brake lights and standard bulbs in the two new inner brake light positions, and my CC works fine. The outer two LED brake lights are brighter than the inner standard two, but I like using the CC on road trips (interstate highways).
I'm very happy with Tore's products. I'm no expert, but all of his items seem to be top notch! If you ever have an issue, I'm sure Tore will happily work with you to find a solution!
Glenn '96 C2
Old 11-09-2015 | 09:26 AM
  #24  
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Default Cc with LEDs

Good to know. Almost thinking might be more " dramatic" to leave Tore's LEDs in the center light strip and use regular bulbs in tail lights until Tore gets this figured out (soon, gotta be winter there soon not much else to do, right).
Old 11-09-2015 | 01:40 PM
  #25  
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I installed Tore's full LED kit (but not the 3rd brake light- I thought those were already LED from the factory?) without a hitch last night. Works like a champ! I did his HID headlights a few months ago, with nary an issue as well.

As soon as he comes out with a flux capacitor with Mr. Fusion attachment, I'll be all set to go!
Old 11-09-2015 | 03:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Spyder_Man
One issue that I ran into with the HID kit was that my '95 993 had early (i.e. pre-xenon option) headlights so the plastic covers did not have the proper mounting points to attach the ballasts to. I ordered new covers and it was no longer an issue, but I recommend cracking open one of your headlight assemblies to see which version you have in advance so you aren't disappointed and having to wait longer like I did.
No need to buy a new cover. When modding my brother's '95 C2, we used adhesive Velcro and taped the ballasts to the bottom of the light housing. If that comes loose then you have other problems.
Old 11-09-2015 | 04:03 PM
  #27  
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The T-LIGHT instruction manual describes a mounting method for the lid with and without studs. No need for velcro or other.






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