Any possible complications with bergvillfx LEDs and HIDs??
#1
Any possible complications with bergvillfx LEDs and HIDs??
Considering upgrading my new C4 to LED tails, turn signals, etc., and HID headlights from bergvillfx.
I know people have had immobilizer issues with bad grounds on various circuits, and changing to low-current LEDs sometimes reveals grounding problems on some cars.
Anything I should be worried about?
I know people have had immobilizer issues with bad grounds on various circuits, and changing to low-current LEDs sometimes reveals grounding problems on some cars.
Anything I should be worried about?
#3
#4
I did the full conversion, HIDs and all LEDs, including the rear fog light to brake light conversion, and it all works perfectly. With all the inattentive drivers now texting and talking nonstop, I fear getting rear-ended. I wanted the best brake lights I could get, and Tore's solutions well satisfied that requirement.
Tore is still working on an LED kit for the center high-mounted brake light. Converting this one to LEDs, along with all the other brake lights, doesn't provide enough resistance to allow the cruise control to engage.
Bottom line, Tore's products are top quality, excellent value, and he is a great guy to deal with. Some products get special rennlist discounts, too.
Tore is still working on an LED kit for the center high-mounted brake light. Converting this one to LEDs, along with all the other brake lights, doesn't provide enough resistance to allow the cruise control to engage.
Bottom line, Tore's products are top quality, excellent value, and he is a great guy to deal with. Some products get special rennlist discounts, too.
#6
Looks like he has the chmsl now.
http://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/...ake-light.html
#7
I hadnt heard about the 3rd brake light affecting the cruise control. I thought somewhere I had just disabled it on accident. Has Tore said what will happen for people who have already bought the 3rd light?
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#8
I installed the whole kit (already had HID's) and had issues with the brake/tail lights. Two new bulbs are on the way so we shall see what happens. Until then I put the regular bulbs in the brake/tail lights.
#10
phoneyman,
You need at least one conventional (non-LED) bulb in the brake light circuit, whether it is the CHMSL or the other brake lights, to provide enough resistance for the cruise control to work. Otherwise, it won't engage.
Although the CHMSL LED kit shows up on Tore's website, I'm not sure if he has it fully sorted and ready to sell yet. I'll ask him.
You need at least one conventional (non-LED) bulb in the brake light circuit, whether it is the CHMSL or the other brake lights, to provide enough resistance for the cruise control to work. Otherwise, it won't engage.
Although the CHMSL LED kit shows up on Tore's website, I'm not sure if he has it fully sorted and ready to sell yet. I'll ask him.
#12
I've got the center high mounted LED strip as well, I bought the full line from him. I think he was working on a fix for the cruise control for current customers but I haven't heard anything. Not that I ever use it....
Tore's customer service is excellent as are his products so I have full confidence in him.
Tore's customer service is excellent as are his products so I have full confidence in him.
#13
E30M3,
Yes, I'm sure it is possible, but I'm not an engineer, so I don't know what value would work. Tore is, and I'm confident he will find the best solution. I'm gonna wait for him, keeping in mind some of the fire damage pictures we've seen that were caused by resistors...
Yes, I'm sure it is possible, but I'm not an engineer, so I don't know what value would work. Tore is, and I'm confident he will find the best solution. I'm gonna wait for him, keeping in mind some of the fire damage pictures we've seen that were caused by resistors...
#15
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 100
From: California Boardwalk, Skanderborg Denmark
Grounds are welded on to chassis studs with 10 mm nuts that have brown wires going to them.
Make sure the grounds in the rear of the engine compartment on both sides just forward of the shock mounts, the ground next to the passenger side's hood hinge - it's behind the bulkhead- as well as the two grounds on each side of the trunk bay are tight and clean.
There are also two under the seats which should be checked for corrosion.
Ground checks should be done anyway in a car of 993's age even if you don't install Tore's kits, which I did and love both the HID and the LED bulb kit. The bulbs look very well made, unlike what I bought elsewhere with exposed LED wafers.
I also discovered issues with my high/low beam switch that were resolved with cycling the switch several times and cleaning with CRC contact cleaner.
Alll lighting current goes from battery through the ignition switch to the headlight switch to the high low switch - a lot of switches and resistance.
My next plan is to install relays to handle the headlamp current for maximum brightness.
Make sure the grounds in the rear of the engine compartment on both sides just forward of the shock mounts, the ground next to the passenger side's hood hinge - it's behind the bulkhead- as well as the two grounds on each side of the trunk bay are tight and clean.
There are also two under the seats which should be checked for corrosion.
Ground checks should be done anyway in a car of 993's age even if you don't install Tore's kits, which I did and love both the HID and the LED bulb kit. The bulbs look very well made, unlike what I bought elsewhere with exposed LED wafers.
I also discovered issues with my high/low beam switch that were resolved with cycling the switch several times and cleaning with CRC contact cleaner.
Alll lighting current goes from battery through the ignition switch to the headlight switch to the high low switch - a lot of switches and resistance.
My next plan is to install relays to handle the headlamp current for maximum brightness.