993 Rear Spoiler Mod
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,314
Likes: 24
From: Los Altos, CA
I've received a few PMs requesting some guidelines for the rear spoiler mod to full manual operation on the 993. I cannot take credit for any of the following information. They can be found through a search here on RL but lack details and photos. Boman993 (Jakob) posted a nice DIY some 2-3 years ago, but is no longer in the archive. Here are some step by step instructions to full manual operation. This may take 30 minutes for first timers. Your rear spoiler will only operate via the console switch.
Note: perform this mod at your own risk!
1. Go to passenger side foot well and remove floor mat.
2. Look up under dash and locate a black plastic box/module about 2"x4" encased in an aluminum bracket.
3. Use a philips screwdriver and remove screw.
4. Pull module out and let hang.
5. Insert flat screwdriver as shown and gently pry connector away from module, taking care not to damage the plastic.
6. Place module out of the way. The mod is to the connector/harness only.
7. Again use a flat screwdriver to gently pry the cap off of the connector harness.
8 . Be very careful here. Once the cap comes off, the pins may pop out of the harness.
9. Gently lift/pull out pin #8 and #12 (one is green and one is white/red).
10. Fold the 2 pins against the wiring loom and snap the cap back onto harness.
11. Tape off the 2 exposed pins and zip tie to wiring loom.
12. Reconnect harness to control module.
13. Insert module back inside aluminum bracket.
14. Secure with screw and replace carpet.
15. Now go for a test drive
Note: perform this mod at your own risk!
1. Go to passenger side foot well and remove floor mat.
2. Look up under dash and locate a black plastic box/module about 2"x4" encased in an aluminum bracket.
3. Use a philips screwdriver and remove screw.
4. Pull module out and let hang.
5. Insert flat screwdriver as shown and gently pry connector away from module, taking care not to damage the plastic.
6. Place module out of the way. The mod is to the connector/harness only.
7. Again use a flat screwdriver to gently pry the cap off of the connector harness.
8 . Be very careful here. Once the cap comes off, the pins may pop out of the harness.
9. Gently lift/pull out pin #8 and #12 (one is green and one is white/red).
10. Fold the 2 pins against the wiring loom and snap the cap back onto harness.
11. Tape off the 2 exposed pins and zip tie to wiring loom.
12. Reconnect harness to control module.
13. Insert module back inside aluminum bracket.
14. Secure with screw and replace carpet.
15. Now go for a test drive
You don't need to pull the battery- there's no voltage to the module when the power is off. This is super easy and a GREAT MOD.
As Rudy stated, careful with the other wires-I put a piece of masking tape over the rest of the plugs when I did this to keep them in the same order in the event they did come out- and they come out really easily!
As Rudy stated, careful with the other wires-I put a piece of masking tape over the rest of the plugs when I did this to keep them in the same order in the event they did come out- and they come out really easily!
Does anyone have the correct order of the original 10 plug locations identified by wire color or photo?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,639
Likes: 98
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Bummer, but fixable - see:
http://members.rennlist.org/mojorizing/spoiler.jpg
Mojorizing again. I would never talk to that guy about movies I haven't already seen... clearly he is the king of spoilers.
http://members.rennlist.org/mojorizing/spoiler.jpg
Mojorizing again. I would never talk to that guy about movies I haven't already seen... clearly he is the king of spoilers.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 71
I wanted to bump this thread with a note: I finally got around to doing the spoiler mod on my '95. On my car the number 10 pin was not red and white but green and black (if I recall correctly). I pulled pins 8 and 10 but everything still functioned normally. Grrr...
I went back and read this thread again and noticed the guy above with the right hand drive car had his number 12 pin as a red and white wire. Sure enough my number 12 pin was red and white so I pulled that one along with number 8. Success!
So - on some 993s you may be pulling numbers 8 and 10 pins or 8 and 12 pins to accomplish the mod.
I went back and read this thread again and noticed the guy above with the right hand drive car had his number 12 pin as a red and white wire. Sure enough my number 12 pin was red and white so I pulled that one along with number 8. Success!
So - on some 993s you may be pulling numbers 8 and 10 pins or 8 and 12 pins to accomplish the mod.
Last edited by KNS; Nov 14, 2016 at 10:53 PM.
button queen
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 1
From: Southwest Ohio
I thought it was wires 8 and 12 on all 993s....I may have that wrong.
In any case I did this to my car years ago and love it!! You can convert the thing to total manual. Also, I have never had, nor heard of anyone else having, any cooling or handling problems with that "cafeteria tray" in the stowed position. Just sayin'
In any case I did this to my car years ago and love it!! You can convert the thing to total manual. Also, I have never had, nor heard of anyone else having, any cooling or handling problems with that "cafeteria tray" in the stowed position. Just sayin'
button queen
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 1
From: Southwest Ohio
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 885
From: United States
In the beginning of this thread the connector to the spoiler in the engine bay...shows you can "JUMP" the two pins on it so it thinks it recognizes the spoiler is "CONNECTED." Basically to eliminate the "spoiler light" on the dash. Can anybody confirm you need to SOLDER the two?
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Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 525
From: MD
Gbos- I noticed you recently installed the Turbo S rear wing. To eliminate the light in the dash, you jumper the 2 pins as shown then some electrical tape circumferentially to hold it all in place. No need to solder anything, to keep things reversible down the road.
In the beginning of this thread the connector to the spoiler in the engine bay...shows you can "JUMP" the two pins on it so it thinks it recognizes the spoiler is "CONNECTED." Basically to eliminate the "spoiler light" on the dash. Can anybody confirm you need to SOLDER the two?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 885
From: United States
Thanks P-daddy....so just cut a piece of wire place it and electrical tape it? Yeah I don't want anything permanent as I kept my original deck lid for future. Okay...my Porsche Dealer is also going to try to eliminate the light on the dash their way...so far unsuccessful...when I get up to 50 mph the light goes on....then when I come to a stop the light ..most of the time goes off? No idea what Porsche did here....going back this week so they can fix it correctly.....if not I will go this route.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 525
From: MD
Thanks P-daddy....so just cut a piece of wire place it and electrical tape it? Yeah I don't want anything permanent as I kept my original deck lid for future. Okay...my Porsche Dealer is also going to try to eliminate the light on the dash their way...so far unsuccessful...when I get up to 50 mph the light goes on....then when I come to a stop the light ..most of the time goes off? No idea what Porsche did here....going back this week so they can fix it correctly.....if not I will go this route.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 525
From: MD
UPDATE:
Just did the rear spoiler mod on my newest addition, and realized I made a typo. The wires you pull out of the harness are still GREEN and WHITE/RED, which correspond with #8 and #12 (not 8 and 10).
Just did the rear spoiler mod on my newest addition, and realized I made a typo. The wires you pull out of the harness are still GREEN and WHITE/RED, which correspond with #8 and #12 (not 8 and 10).
