another brake project
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
another brake project
To ease brake service I made a few changes.
1) Replaced the caliper bolts with studs.
2) Replaced the hard line/flex line with a single flex line.
Caliper studs are same as for the 996 not much to say about them.
I opted to use adapters to convert the car to standard an-3, that way I can use off the shelf lines rather than custom ones since they will need to be replaced every couple of years..
The bulkhead adapter is: female 10mmx1 concave bubble flare (Pegusus part#3265-18)
Caliper is: male 10mmx1 male convex bubble flare (Pegusus part#3265-18)
Line is standard -3, 10in long, 90deg at the bulkhead and 45deg at the caliper.
1) Replaced the caliper bolts with studs.
2) Replaced the hard line/flex line with a single flex line.
Caliper studs are same as for the 996 not much to say about them.
I opted to use adapters to convert the car to standard an-3, that way I can use off the shelf lines rather than custom ones since they will need to be replaced every couple of years..
The bulkhead adapter is: female 10mmx1 concave bubble flare (Pegusus part#3265-18)
Caliper is: male 10mmx1 male convex bubble flare (Pegusus part#3265-18)
Line is standard -3, 10in long, 90deg at the bulkhead and 45deg at the caliper.
Last edited by jscott82; 03-03-2015 at 11:30 PM.
#6
Race Car
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#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Three problems I am trying to solve.
1) I stripped the threads in the upright from constantly removing the bolts to change rotors. After repairing the upright, I decided to go to studs to prevent that from happening again. I should have done it long ago, I change rotors at least twice a year.
2) The new (to me anyway) Motons, didn’t have a mounting tab for the hardline. Leaving the hardline/flexline junction unsupported didn’t seem like a good idea. And with studs, I needed to get rid of the hardline anyway.
3) I wasn’t comfortable having to flex the hardline to move the caliper every time I changed rotors.
The studs are torqued just enough to seat them (5-6ft/lbs). Any more than that and you are just stressing the shoulder. The nuts are what pretension the stud. They should come up to (or maybe a little less) as the bolts (50-60ftlb).
Steven is spot on on the paint. I’m looking to change pads, and the first thing to know is what temp range I need.
MSI Racing makes/sells the wheel studs. And interestingly make the caliper studs for some well known retailers. http://www.msiracingproducts.com
1) I stripped the threads in the upright from constantly removing the bolts to change rotors. After repairing the upright, I decided to go to studs to prevent that from happening again. I should have done it long ago, I change rotors at least twice a year.
2) The new (to me anyway) Motons, didn’t have a mounting tab for the hardline. Leaving the hardline/flexline junction unsupported didn’t seem like a good idea. And with studs, I needed to get rid of the hardline anyway.
3) I wasn’t comfortable having to flex the hardline to move the caliper every time I changed rotors.
The studs are torqued just enough to seat them (5-6ft/lbs). Any more than that and you are just stressing the shoulder. The nuts are what pretension the stud. They should come up to (or maybe a little less) as the bolts (50-60ftlb).
Steven is spot on on the paint. I’m looking to change pads, and the first thing to know is what temp range I need.
MSI Racing makes/sells the wheel studs. And interestingly make the caliper studs for some well known retailers. http://www.msiracingproducts.com
#9
Race Car
Perfect... If you have a pic of a wheel on, with those studs it would be greatly appreciated...
Now that I have the Stoptech's on my car I do like the stud and nut vs the old bolts.....
Now that I have the Stoptech's on my car I do like the stud and nut vs the old bolts.....
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
What nose do you have on your car? If I remember correctly it was just the lower half that was replaced (top half was stock)? This seems like the perfect solution... Looking at aerodynamics, I need to widen the lower half (to shroud the tires better), and flatten/smooth the bottom (for a splitter). Yours seems to do exactly that.
#11
Race Car
Its the GT2 Evo1, Mounts under the stock bumper (with some moding of the stock one.) There was a thread recently saying most of the guys that make them don't have a feasible mould anymore..
The car does feel nice and balanced with the RSCS wing. My current track however is not a high speed track so it is hard to determine the improvement to lap times etc.
The car does feel nice and balanced with the RSCS wing. My current track however is not a high speed track so it is hard to determine the improvement to lap times etc.
#13
Race Car
Do you remember what length studs you bought for your car?
With the length you bought how much thread is visible with the lug nuts torqued up?
What is the flange thickness of your wheels?
I know lots of questions Just trying to finalize my plans
With the length you bought how much thread is visible with the lug nuts torqued up?
What is the flange thickness of your wheels?
I know lots of questions Just trying to finalize my plans
#14
Rennlist Member
I am looking for the details on the 996 caliper studs and all I am seeing are the same mounting bolts as what we have on our 993's. Any further details you could provide?