Eurotrio

When I removed the drain bolt, it was extremely tight...independent shop did prior oil change.

Finished an oil change, however after test driving the car, I noticed a leak at the drain bolt. New o-ring and new crush washer was used. I loosened it and per Bentley, torque is 37+3.7 ft-lb...very tight. So, still getting a little seepage.


I am afraid to tighten it more. I read a little about an updated drain bolt... what's different about it?
Any thoughts?

Thanks guys.

NYC993

Hard to see on iphone, but are you sure it's leaking and didn't simply squeeze out sone remains of oil? How long has it been since the oil change? Try another crush washer?

I have drained a bit of oil once and re-used the crush washer once, and didn't see any leaks.

NYC993

Btw my bolts were pretty tight during my first oil change, so seems that all shops over-tighten the bolts (and filterers - don't get me started in this one).

Since you can easily put a 6 point socket on this one, not sure over-tighting would be problematic.

pp000830

If it doesn't form a droplet, its not leaking.

TMc993

+1...I've seen drain plugs "sweat" a little oil from the mated surfaces after an oil change, then never leak a drop.

If it were me, I'd clean it really well, start watching the garage floor, drive it for 250-300 miles, then eyeball it again. It's not like you're going to lose all your engine oil, but this kind of stuff can drive you nuts if you let it.

rlme36

you gotta nip this one in the bud. Red Loctite all the way. ;-)

I'd try a new crush washer and/or a new bolt if its threads have been stretched due to previous over tightening. Cheap fix.

jscott82

Agree, with what was said above... I don't see anything worth worrying about...

But if it is worse than the picture shows or gets worse over time...

With a new crush washer in place and torqued to spec, its one of three things
1) Piece of grit is preventing the washer from making a good seal.
2) One of the mating surfaces is scored
3) Mating surfaces are not parallel.

Whatever you do, it doesn't need more torque.

Just my 2cents

nine9six

For those that may be confused, the red loctite comment was certainly made with tongue in cheek...

The sealing surface is the crush washer area, and not the threads on the engine drain plug.

I don't know how you would identify stretched threads, unless you perform a thread pitch measurement over wires, or on an optical comparator; neither of which most DIY'ers have handy in the garage.

I bought a new aluminum oil tank plug at the dealer for less than $20 bux; but I have no idea what an engine oil drain plug would cost. Hopefully less...

Eurotrio

Yes this is on the oil tank. I have never experienced this before on such simple task LOL

Ha, I thought that the O-ring was providing primary seal surface and the crush washer was the second. I wouldn't feel so hesitant getting a new drain bolt, O-ring and washer.....I just hate to waste any of the fresh Motul 300V oil. Thanks for the input guys. I guess there is no mention about a "new and improved" drain bolt.

AOW162435

Clean the area thoroughly and drive it. Check in a few weeks. No reason to dump the tank over this.

The oil could also migrate from somewhere higher.



Andreas

pp000830

You know the line, “accept the things I should not fix, have courage to fix the things I must and have the wisdom to know the difference”

nine9six

If its the oil tank drain plug, it is indeed the O-ring and then the crush washer as primary and secondary sealing surfaces. I stand corrected. ...Still not an expensive item, even at dealer prices

Drain into a nice clean recepticle and reuse the fresh oil...Motul 300V is expensive stuff! ...And to think I used to get the Motul for free from the WSMC Motul rep

Quadcammer

dude.

That is barely anything.

You got 13 quarts in there.

If you dump this oil over this, you should get a nutshot.

chsu74

Duct tape

ilko

Piece of cake. Just flip the car over and change it. You won't lose a drop of oil that way.