Oil drain bolt seepage
#16
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Lol. If needed, I'll siphon out oil out of the tank. FWIW engine sounds quieter, smoother and running cooler with the Motul 300V. This is only an observation after two 30min drives.
#18
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I really don't see what the issue is. Put the small plastic cover back on and forget about it until the next oil change. Use new plug next time if it really bothers you.
#19
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Another thing - even properly tightened fasteners often bind after several heat cycles - I have seen for instance valve cover bolts torqued at 7 ft-lbs, and a few years later really need a good twisting way above 7 to get them off. The same seems to be for the drain plug, after the car has been run with several heat cycles, its always harder to get it off. Given how soft it is, I use a good 6pt socket and a 1/2" ratchet with extension handle - not to put extra torque on the plug, but to be able to smoothly apply the power.
I know we always blame the last guy in, but given I do the oil changes a on a whole series of cars, I can see that the idiot who did the last oil change (me) seemed to have overtightened that damn drain plug!
No sure about the leak since its hard to see it from the picture, and everyone has commented.
Cheers,
Mike
I know we always blame the last guy in, but given I do the oil changes a on a whole series of cars, I can see that the idiot who did the last oil change (me) seemed to have overtightened that damn drain plug!
No sure about the leak since its hard to see it from the picture, and everyone has commented.
Cheers,
Mike
#20
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Thanks for the info guys. Just to clarify....the picture was showing where the oil was dripping from. After driving the car I had a nice puddle under the car, this was after I wiped it down.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#21
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Your concern makes more sense now. If you try new plug and washer, I'd get o-ring and just swap the plugs with oil in the car. You will spill 1/4-1/2 a quart if you swap them quickly. Just do it with cold oil obviously and have something to catch the oil.
#23
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I dont know how the reast of you guys feel, but we had discussion about the 37 ft lbs of torque on the tank drain bolt, previously.
When I replaced my drain bolt due to the PO buggering the flats of the bolt head, I could feel crush washer squeeze at far less than 37 ft lbs.
FWIW, I pulled the plug back out, put in a new crush washer and torqued to 30 ft lbs., with narry a drop of leakage...Almost seems like 25-29 ft. lbs would be sufficient.
37 ft lbs seems way to tight, especially for those alum threads. If they stretch, they're likely to gall; and that's another whole can O' worms that not many would want to wade into.
When I replaced my drain bolt due to the PO buggering the flats of the bolt head, I could feel crush washer squeeze at far less than 37 ft lbs.
FWIW, I pulled the plug back out, put in a new crush washer and torqued to 30 ft lbs., with narry a drop of leakage...Almost seems like 25-29 ft. lbs would be sufficient.
37 ft lbs seems way to tight, especially for those alum threads. If they stretch, they're likely to gall; and that's another whole can O' worms that not many would want to wade into.
#25
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tn got it right. Your drain plug is cracked from excessive torque. Get a new one...Now! It fails right at the base of the hex. Back in '07, when I first got my '95, mine sheared on me doing my first oil change. I also agree w/PCAR, 20-25 lb.-ft. is plenty. I also lightly coat the threads with wheel bearing grease.