Shtootgart

I like your idea in the original post. Keep it simple and meets all of your requirements

Jlaa

Okay more progress. The 9 pole double throw switch works, at least at DC. i dont know what happens at AC (audio frequencies) though I note that folks have used the blue Takamisawa relays to switch audio before. I tested the circuit boards (you can see the LEDs glowing which indicate that the relays have switched).

I soldered up some custom cables so that I dont have to cut any connectors in the car. Basically what you at looking at is that the 9PDT switch switches between input A (normally open) and input B (normally closed). Input A and B use their own respective green/blue connectors, which is what the CDC3 and the Yatour terminate in. I used the two yellow ISO connectors to do thinkgs like supply signal/power/ground to the 9PDT switch as well as output the 9 poles to a single green/blue connector that will plug in to the back of the becker cr-220.

Jlaa

Hah! Becker Cr-220 & Yatour YT-M07 "Digital Media Changer" with YT-BTM Bluetooth option and my 9PDT switch works great on my kitchen table.

I powered the whol shebang with a 12vdc power supply ....

I hooked the yatour up to the 9PDT switch (normally open), applied 12v to the relays to switch to the Yatour.

Becker cr-220 reports the Yatour as a CDC. I tried both 1/8" miniplug line in and Bluetooth on the Yatour ... It all works. Bluetooth automatically reconnects to my android phone after a Becker power off condition - no repairing necessary.

Everything works flawlessly on my table .... I have yet to try SD cards and my iPod (which I haven't used in 5 years) but I am so far very pleased with this set up at least on my kitchen table.

Jlaa

Okay M. Schneider! Taking your advice! Now that I have the 9PDT switcher box complete to switch between the frunk cd changer and the BT/usb/ipod/sd/aux-audio-jack, I am now following your lead (or perhaps more precisely Rod Birch is putting forth the effort.).

- focal krx2 speakers
- conversion of non hifi to hifi front door panels in to accommodate the large tweeters in a totally hidden way
- kenwood 4x6 coaxials in the rear
- becker cr-220 mit tape deck and modified display from swstereo
- 4 channel alpine amp ... 150Wx4
- 7 lbs of damping on the rear firewall at rod's suggestion ... Will not ruin lovely flat 6 sounds
- no damping in the doors --- rod's point .. "Waste of effort and $ for 993)
- audison DSP for time delay / enviromental correction
- no subwoofers

We will see how this turns out ...

BTW anyone have any non hifi rear speaker grilles for sale? Mine are cracked from age and sun ...

mpruden

Looking awesome and I'm sure it will sound even better. The bit Ten looks like a great device.

Spyder_Man

I'm surprised you got the amp, the DSP, and the OEM bits all under the seat. Well done! While you are in there, mind taking a measurement for me? What's the approximate maximum length of an amp that will fit on the floor space under the seat? (i.e. the length from front to rear of the passenger seat)

Are you driving the rear speakers off the amp or the receiver? Are you running the KRX2 passively through their crossovers or actively without them? Since you invested in the DSP, I think you'd get better sound managing it actively.

Jlaa

Actually, you can compliment Rod on his handiwork, not myself. Unfortunately, I can't take the measurements because I'm not near the car at the moment. What I can say though is that if the amplifier gets much longer than what is picture then I'm not sure it can really fit.

The reason is because the amp is already higher in the front than the rear ---- the amp's front is sitting on top of a raised section of the floor plan. Therefore, if the amp is even longer, than the front section of the amp will get higher and higher, thus fouling the seat. This amplifier is 10 1/8" long.

Still need to figure out a way to get the OE control module with the blue connector installed.

I'll see how the DSP set up goes. I'm not really familiar at all with this technology ----- seems with DSP software (the usb cord is supposed to hook up to the PC for one-time-tuning) that 95% of the effort is in the tuning and 5% is actual mechanics of installation/equipment hookup.

Therefore, I decided to ask for professional help - Rod. He'll be driving the rears with the amp (2 channels) as well as the fronts with the amp (2 channels, with the crossovers on the door cards).

Spyder_Man

Thanks for the details. I'm trying to find an amp that is small enough to drive a 3-way speaker setup actively. It is proving challenging.

Regarding the DSP, I'd consider installing it in the glove box or under-dash area. I notice your switch box is already taking up glovebox room, but maybe there is some space in there still. I've also seen folks install the cross overs for speakers under the driver's seat, perhaps the DSP could fit there if it doesn't work under the passenger's seat.

I have been reading about DSP units, but I have yet to make the plunge of buying one. I think your 5%/95% split might be generous (Possibly more like 1% install and 99% software tweaking), but they are supposed to be very powerful tools once installed and setup properly.

Jlaa

I thought I'd share some more pictures of Rod's handiwork as he progresses. I'm a big fan of his attention to detail --- the molex connectors on the tweeters for instance. (this is a non-HiFi car that I've converted to use HiFi front door panels so as to be able to fit the large tweeters that come with the Focal KRX2 speaker component set.) The stock tweeters are disconnected.

The vibration damping material in the back is about seven to eight pounds of additional weight --- not a big deal.

My 9PDT switch has been rotated so that the wires don't show.

The module with blue connector (cruise control module) will be mounted right on top of the Audison Bit Ten - there is enough vertical clearance for that.

Spyder_Man

Lookin' good. I'd love to hear it in-person when the installation is done. I'm still curious/confused why not actively drive the door speakers and skip the cross-overs if you're installing the DSP? I guess it boils down to amp size & capabilities.

Jlaa

Budget and space constraints precludes bi-amplification of the components speakers at the front!

I'd like to avoid using headunit power to drive the rear deck speakers because anything out of the CR-220's amplifier stages doesn't sound very good.

I'd also like this stereo installation to be totally hidden. (this incidentally means no subwoofer because a SW would be observable to the eye)

Given those constraints, the biggest amplifier I can fit under the front passenger seat is a 4 or 5 channel amp..... no 6 channel amp.

So therefore Rod put in a 4 channel amp under the passenger seat.

2 channels drive the rear pair of speakers.
2 channels drive the front component sets.

We'll see how all that works .... the weak link in the system (by far) is the CR-220 / CDC-3 and the fact that most of the audio being played will be in compressed formats (or via bluetooth) .... but I was unwilling to compromise on aesthetics.

Jlaa

I picked up the car yesterday. Everything operates as expected (well) and the system sounds fantastic to my non-expert ears. I'm over the moon. Granted, at speed with the Fister IIs blaring there's no point to listening to hi fidelity music. None of the sonic qualities of the car itself (engine noise, exhaust, etc.) have been compromised.

However, in the garage or in 6th gear at a leisurely pace on the freeway, the stereo system is sublime. No subwoofers needed.

Here are the remaining pictures. You can see that the glovebox has the 9PDT switcher box, the Yatour with the SD card / iPod cable / USB jack / SD jack, as well as a bluetooth receiver (the thing with the button on it --- for repairing)

Also the final installation under the passenger seat can be seen --- Cruise Control module is mounted directly over the DSP.

Thanks, everyone, in this thread, for their help. It was a neat 3-month long project.

M. Schneider

Great outcome ! +1 Agreed on the lack subwoofer use. DSP, DSP, DSP .... Horray for DSP, any brand DSP.

The system "gain" attributed from 993's tiny interior space works to a limit, which I'm guessing fits the bill for 95% of us. "Or 4 out of 5 dentists agree ..."

Nice job! (I too have recently dialed in the coupe's DSP filters and the stereo system (fully active in this case) is "sublime" as you say. And at high volume level to boot!)
It's not bad .... actually, all grown up for a 16 year old sports car.

This newer DSP mouse trap (they're all dam good) is one I have in box but have yet to explore.
http://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-d2-100-4-dsp Its the Mosconi D2 100-4-DSP which was purchased in Germany. Basically, supports 6 DSP channels and there's an optional A2DP streaming module.

This DSP w/amp module (passenger seat fitment) when coupled with a Plug N Play umbilical cord fitting a HiFi options (490) wiring scheme is a current project. Once the PnP wiring is cobbled together w/ the OEM connector, a west coast Rennlist'rs will beta test it. This enhancement could be cake.

Cheers, Mike

Jlaa

Thanks!

I agree with your comments on small coupe cockpit giving a huge system "gain" ...
I'm going to try and attach a super crude youtube video below showing my 9PdT switch in action .

Madridcab

Sorry, had forgotten to post up the subwoofer, basically goes like this




Once the seat is reinstalled, the only thing you can see is this:




A bit uncomfortable for my daughter as she can no longer get her feet under the seat, but good in the sense it is more or less invisible, Subwoofer is cheapo DSS, cost about 100 euro from memory. Fills the low frequencies well, the passenger seat is now a massage seat.... I also powered it from the seat harness, has pretty good gauge wire and high amperage fuse (I know the pro would have passed another fused power cable directly to the battery).

I believe any under seat unit should be ok, the thinner the better, this one does not allow 100% free movement of seat (hits the SW before reaching max low position, could be fixed by spacing up the seat a few millimeters)