Jlaa

Hi Johnny Law --- thanks for that. I'd be very interested to hear more about this set up (when you get to a PC) as well! I also had thought about an auto-sensing RCA switch but my google sleuthing capabilities aren't quite up to snuff --- I couldn't find one.

theRossinator -

I saw your Amazon link to SESCOM's RCA-input switch. I saw that too ---- but I guess in my head I ruled it out as it is octopus style (connectors in three directions) which would FORCE one to disassemble it and make a better housing so that all the connectors faced one way (otherwise it is too gross) ---- versus the 1/8" mini plug switch wherein all the connectors are at the back ----- giving one the option of mounting it in the ashtray in a pinch. I don't think the RCA <-> 1/8" mini plug conversions are going to be deleterious .... unless you are thinking of something else?

BTW, I found a QPDT switch at Fry's Electronics. It is less than $8 but it sure is ugly:

http://www.frys.com/product/2860784?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

therossinator

I had the idea that the RCA "switch" has a spdt switch in it to control all the other circuitry (which isolates it from the audio lines). If so, that switch could theoretically be relocated only using 3 wires, leaving the unit itself next to the cd changer.

That 4pdt switch is impressive. I had no idea they were so readily available. I just worry about frequency response, interference, etc when using components not designed for audio. There are forces at work in audio that I don't fully understand. I'm a DC guy, AC confuses me. But yes, that could certainly work and is much cheaper than $40 for the one on amazon.

M. Schneider

therossinator - "Suffer the fool graciously."

M. Schneider

Super. When you get to the speakers ........
This allows the opportunity to fit a hi performance 2-way speaker arrangement not unlike the 964s door speaker aesthetic. Makes for a nice musical active 2-way setup. (large motor 2.5" tweeters; Seas, Scan, Vifa, etc.)

The 993s 3/4" sized door tweeters are bandwidth limited starting @ 4Khz and up, not to mention there location being waaay out in left field - not acoustically ideal but what is in an automotive environment ...

Good luck.

Jlaa

M. Schneider --- yes, I have a set of HiFi door panels ---I will be refreshing those door panels and fit those to my car with better loudspeakers, as well as installing an amplifier under the passenger seat. Thanks.

theRossinator --- I have stumbled across an alternative approach to getting additional auxiliary inputs into a CR-220. Some of the drawbacks to piggybacking over the existing CD changer RCA jacks are that head unit display show useless information when running bluetooth aux-in as well as the fact that there is now additional wear and tear on the CD changer motor mechanism.

The following approach is slightly more elegant. It employs the use of Solisto.de http://www.solisto.de/en/frontpage devices. In this manner, one could have the following inputs on the CR-220:

• cassette
• cd changer
• aux-in (I would use bluetooth streaming music from my phone)
• usb stick (controlled by the headunit)
• ipod/iphone (controlled by the head units) <--- I would not use this.

I contacted soloisto.de ---- they make a y-cable with a switch that allows the CR-220/CDR-220 to "switch between CD changers". So in essence one could use either the CDC3 changer or flick a switch in the cockpit and use the solisto device. The soloist device emulates that CDC3 changer so that the head unit displays the proper information.

In my case I would use a Solisto classic plus (Which has usb and 1/8" aux in, but no ipod/phone control).

The Y-cable is actually a cable with a switch that solisto makes for VAG Volkswagen Audi Group Cars. They have offered to modify one for me so that it works with Porsche/Becker head units. I think what this means in practice is that they do not use the single blue mini-iso connectors as for the VAG cars --- they use the "dual" blue/green mini-iso connectors for Porsche Becker. Regardless, they are researching the price for this specially modified cable and I will let this forum know the result.

I have attached

• a crude diagram of my understanding of how the wiring would work in the car.
• a picture of the cable that Solisto has offered to modify
• a picture of the cable that would connect from the Y-adapter to the solisto device (showing the blue/green mini iso connectors). This cable would have originally be used to directly connect the head unit to the solisto device.

M. Schneider

Another mouse trap ... for I/Os. A2DP Bluetooth, etc.

http://www.eisa.eu/award/26/european...2013-2014.html

We used the Solisto scheme coupled with the CDR-220 in my wifes MY00 Boxster for many years. Worked very well. It would seem there are many 993s here w/ CR/CDR -210 owner's using the Solisto over the years.

Johnny_law

I owe a couple of apologies before I go on.

First for my delay in following up on my last post. And B, although I was aware that the auto sensing RCA source switch was out of production at the time I purchased mine the eBay supplier had several on hand. I just checked and he doesn't have any PAC ASAI-21's anymore. So the device may be very difficult to come by.

There are alternatives but they will complicate the installation a bit and require a simple switch for power to trigger the switch from CD to Bluetooth.

What I used was:

1) PAC ASAI-21 Auto sensing switch



2) Fusion MS-BT100 Bluetooth Dongle



3) Radio Shack Project Box 6x4x2 (270-1806)



4) Radio Shack 12V Relay
5) PAC SNI-1 RCA Noise Filter
6) Molex Power connector 8 pin (utilized only 3 pins - Switch 12v, 12v and ground)

To install I placed the Fusion and the PAC ASAI-21 in the Enclosure. I cut and soldered the pigtails to RCA jacks mounted on the box so that I had Left and Right input and output RCA jacks coming from the box. Power was supplied to the box the switched power came from the connection I made at the Power Sunroof switch at the console that I used to power my Valentine One.

The main power and ground come from the Battery. The switched power provides power to the relay so that the devices are powered directly from the battery.

When purchasing the PAC ASAI-21 the seller from Germany accidently sent me another RCA switch (PIE MPSS-2) which was not auto sensing but uses a 12V trigger to make the switch. This would work as well or better but would require a second switched power lead to the box providing power trigger line.

If I have problems with the auto sensing switch switching back to the CD in between songs or during brief breaks I may end up using the switch with a 12 V trigger.

I would not recommend the Fusion Bluetooth Dongle as it does not re-pair on turning on so I need to connect my Bluetooth to the device everytime I start up the car. A major pain.

I did need to add a noise filter as there was noise added into the system. The gain from the Fusion was also lower than that from the CD Changer so I do have to increase the volume a tad when listening to Bluetooth streaming.

At this point I am pretty happy with it.

Johnny

M. Schneider

Jlaa - Actually, I wasn't suggesting the #490 HiFi door enclosure's ... as a retro fit.

The non HiFi door panels allow the fitment of a shallow chassis 200mm (8") mid-woofer. When paired with a full size tweeter ,,, makes for a dynamic musical 993 stereo system. A simple, active, 2 way arrangement. Good luck.

Jlaa

Johnny_law,

Many thanks for your detailed notes. I am impressed with your attention to detail through your use of the molex connector. I dont know if you have a rear wiper or not. I do not so I have toyed with the idea of using a rear wiper switch, assuming that one can configure it as a SPST switch (by using only some of the contacts) in your case with the PIE MPSS-2, paint the switch black and mask off a tiny white bluetooth logo, and mount the switch in the center console.

Johnny_law

I think that would work really well. Yes, I do have the rear wiper, but I do have one unused location for a switch in the console.

My original quest was to keep the car completely stock. My final solution did just that except the soldering my switched power supply to the contacts in the sunroof switch in the console. That power wire does double duty providing ignition based switched power to my V1 and my Bluetooth.

If I decide that the auto sensing RCA switch doesn't cut the mustard then I will use the RCA switch with the 12V trigger. I will then need to run another wire with a switch. Whether I use a wiper switch or a hidden under the dash switch is still to be determined.

A couple of pictures with and without my Bluetooth box.

Madridcab

I have the original 210 in my car, and although I have not yet gone to a solution for aux in, I must say that with simply just quality replacement 2 way components in the original door location (with original covers), and a powered sub under the passenger seat, just running the 210´s internal amp, the sound is great, and for very little money, completely original look, I am very happy with the sound in my 993..

mpruden

Which powered sub do you have? Any chance you can take a picture of it in your car?

Jlaa

Okay, I don't think Solisto's modified "y-cable with a switch" technique is going to work.

First of all, their switch is too ugly. It is probably something like a 8PDT switch which is too ugly Because the form factor is too big:



Secondly, Solisto didn't respond further to their offer of the modification of the y-cable --- which probably means it is more involved than they thought.

So I am going to try and use some relays to make my own switching-mechanism to switch between the CDC3 CD changer and the Solisto box. There are 9 pins in the CDC cable. So I will use something like this:



with many of them in a package like this:



and operated with a switch like this:




But re-pad printed with a bluetooth logo perhaps by these guys:

http://stickynomore.com

hkspwrsche

I think its about time for secret audio to start making some old school 80-90s style german radios with new technology hidden in them.

therossinator

isn't the rear windshield wiper a momentary switch?