Golden rod design
#16
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I was more curious on why the welding was needed versus just replacing the rubber piece. If I was going to do anything I would likely buy a golden rod. I've talked with my mechanic and he has experience building the platinum rods, but since the part is so expensive total cost will be >$300. Not sure I need more than the platinum rod.
#17
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I made my own using a Borgeson U-joint from Pegasus. Rather than welding it directly to the shift rod, I welded a short piece of chromoly tube and a flange to the U-joint so its a bolt in (much like the Wevo joint).
With the time spent and my cost for materials and consumables, I can say you're better off just buying the FD Motorsports rod or the Wevo joint. I like doing this kind of stuff which is my only reason for doing so.
I also fabbed my own forward shift rod with chromoly tubing and aircraft rod ends.
With the time spent and my cost for materials and consumables, I can say you're better off just buying the FD Motorsports rod or the Wevo joint. I like doing this kind of stuff which is my only reason for doing so.
I also fabbed my own forward shift rod with chromoly tubing and aircraft rod ends.
#19
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After doing my own conversion:
1) The transmision input is not in alignment with the shifter. You need some kind of universal or rag joint to account for the (minor) difference. Solid bushings are not a good idea.
2) Yes u-joints are inexpensive. But the magic happens when you try to mate a "standard" joint to the input of the transmision. Its not rocket science, but you need a machined part that is an exact fit with 0 slop or you are no better off(probaly worse) than the stock rag joint.
My 2 cents.
1) The transmision input is not in alignment with the shifter. You need some kind of universal or rag joint to account for the (minor) difference. Solid bushings are not a good idea.
2) Yes u-joints are inexpensive. But the magic happens when you try to mate a "standard" joint to the input of the transmision. Its not rocket science, but you need a machined part that is an exact fit with 0 slop or you are no better off(probaly worse) than the stock rag joint.
My 2 cents.
As you said, it isn't rocket science but, like most things Porsche, is more precise than you'd expect
We learned the hard way
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The alignment front to back and fit at the trans are "fairly important"
#20
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I am sure if you have a shop with the right equipment you can make something that will work. But one screw up or a few trial and errors and you are going to be thinking "why didn't I just buy the GR..." I have one on the C2 and will be doing it on the C2S - fantastic quality, easy DIY and awesome results.
#22
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I installed the GR and SSK from FD last year. Why bother with all self welding. Mark makes a great, affordable product. Unless your Top-Gun, and have a fabrication shop, why waste the time. These are very expensive cars, why F*&^ with something as important as your connection to a very expensive transmission. Our cars a challenging on a great day, why make it even more complicated.
The installation is very easy. Just make sure that you align the transmission bolt that connects the shift rod. Very easy to x-thread. The GR is a very tight and precise fit. So alignment is key.
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The installation is very easy. Just make sure that you align the transmission bolt that connects the shift rod. Very easy to x-thread. The GR is a very tight and precise fit. So alignment is key.
#23
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I have always stated that the FDM units are top notch and well worth the cost. I think anyone with a 993 should have the GR on the top of their to do list. I just don't have an abundance of money and knew that I could make a copy of their product with patience and determination. I'd love to be able to buy all kinds of crap for my car. What I can't afford, am sure I can reproduce correctly (and not ruin things), I'll make my self. By no means am I throwing things in that I am not sure of. Just out of self preservation, I am more than apprehensive to tackle something I have doubts of.