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Going ALL In, P0410->doing the Top End

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Old 06-18-2014, 12:22 PM
  #31  
nine9six
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Great news! +1 on what John said...

So what are you gonna do with all the $$$$ you saved?

Looks like the kids will have milk again
Old 06-18-2014, 12:31 PM
  #32  
Kika
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Originally Posted by JB 911
+1

Joking asides that's great news Keith. Interesting too about replacing the switching valves. When you wrote this (below), did you mean the switching valves were sticky? So he must have tested the flow by activating the sai pump as opposed to just running compressed air thru the system to notice something wasn't right. Valuable lesson there. ANyways, now you can take all that money you were about to unload, put it in a good mutual fund and then when you are ready to do the topend you'll have the 9m heads covered
There are two pneumatic valves, 8 and 6 in the diagram, the check valve, 7, was replaced a few years ago. There is some carbon build up on 8, and Ruben thinks it may have been sticky. The electro-pneumatic switch, 6, did not look too bad, but who knows what it looks like on the inside, so he went ahead and replaced it too.

If/when I get to this point again, I would probably just replace all three pieces, both pneumatic switches and the check valve all at the same time.
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:25 PM
  #33  
Mike J
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I had missed this thread, and now that I read it, I was not sure why you exactly concluded you needed a top end done so quickly. With a cost that high, it deserves more diagnosis before spending the moola.

One of the biggest indicators of a top end is oil consumption - if you are using a lot of oil, its likely it's because of the valve guides being worn, which will drop oil into the exhaust ports and plug up the SAI passages just besides the base of the valve support. In your case, you did not have much data to work from, but it did not sound like you had a real consumption issue - when you burn a quart every 600 miles or less, you will know it, the oil keeps flowing in.

I would have done exactly what you got to eventually - used a PST-2 or equivalent to dig into the codes, and see if it was external or internal. I only trust the Porsche reader in my shop - third party readers can give codes, but they often miss others.

If it was SAI related, I would have checked the actual system out first, then taken another run at a flush, and when removing the heater boxes, you can see the base of the exhaust valves and judge how bad the carbonization is. If that did not work, and the conclusion was the external components of the engine was working properly, then possibly a top end should be done.

Then the decision looming is remaining stock vs modify. I always find this funny, there are always suggestions of 9M heads, or RS cams, etc. but that avenue is expensive, and needs to be done right. If you are going to do the 9M heads, then you need to match it with other components like cams and ECU upgrades, and it may require tuning skills as well. It requires deep pockets, and of course if it's not your money, it's easy to recommend this path.

I am really glad it all worked out and you dodged the bullet - so now you are going to be more prudent at tracking your oil consumption, right?

(and regular flushes help keep the SAI passages clear --- ).

Cheers,

Mike
Old 06-18-2014, 01:56 PM
  #34  
Kika
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Mike,

I got to the top end conclusion over many years.

I bought the car in 2007, upon my first P1411, I had the ports cleaned and the check valve replaced. In 2012 time frame some of my investments were doing really well, and I thought about having the top end done since I had a decent amount of disposable cash.

Recently the P1411 returned. I assumed (wrongly) that since only one bank was reported, that it was time.

The lesson is 1. Don't listen to Gonzilla and 2. Have all the codes read with a Porsche raider or Bosch Hammer. My biggest mistake was trusting my Actron. I won't do that again. Don't get me wrong, it is useful for some things, just not as complete of a diagnostics tool as I thought. Ruben recommended regular use of Swepco engine treatment.

This car will always be a street/GT car, a fun toy for the canyons, AND a GT car for the wife and I to take road trips in. In its current state, it has enough power for me. I made my mistakes chasing power with my 911SC. If I ally want more power, I'll look for a Turbo or move to a 997.
Old 06-18-2014, 02:20 PM
  #35  
Mike J
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Originally Posted by Kika
Ruben recommended regular use of Swepco engine treatment.
You mean their oil treatment "502"? That seems to use micronized moly and has solvents to dissolve gunk. Most 993 engines are really clean inside, they tend to have oil change intervals done much shorter than recommended so I am not sure where this will help.

(and I Aaways get nervous dumping an oil additive into an engine, especially a 993).

I wonder what was the basis of the recommendation?

Cheers,

Mike
Old 06-18-2014, 02:36 PM
  #36  
Kika
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Originally Posted by Mike J
You mean their oil treatment "502"? That seems to use micronized moly and has solvents to dissolve gunk. Most 993 engines are really clean inside, they tend to have oil change intervals done much shorter than recommended so I am not sure where this will help.

(and I Aaways get nervous dumping an oil additive into an engine, especially a 993).

I wonder what was the basis of the recommendation?

Cheers,

Mike
He said, "engine treatment". So I'm not sure which one, I was going to go over to O'Reillys later on and see what they have, I'm thinking probably a fuel system additive.

Over the several decades of working on Porsches, he has seen a lot of motors, so his advice is usually based on stuff he has seen.
Old 06-18-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Kika
The lesson is 1. Don't listen to Gonzilla
HOW DARE YOU!!!
Old 06-18-2014, 03:53 PM
  #38  
Kika
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Originally Posted by gonzilla
HOW DARE YOU!!!
Ahh, now the teacher knows the student read the entire passage.

So when are you going to get that fender fixed? Or you going to do a RW conversion?
Old 06-18-2014, 05:08 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Kika
Ahh, now the teacher knows the student read the entire passage.

So when are you going to get that fender fixed? Or you going to do a RW conversion?
I may as well have gone the RW route. The fender turned into the rear quarter (window out), which turned into the decklid and spolier, which turned into the roof, which turned into the cowl and hood (windshield out), which of course turned into replacing the windshield. I asked the guy "why not paint the whole thing?" and he said "No way! You don't want to do that!!! You want as much original paint on the car as possible!" I was worried about matching, but I trusted him. Whether or not he was right will remain to be seen. But I'll probably screw it up again anyway, so who cares?

As an aside, why the hell are 993 windshields $1200?

Here's a pic of it as it stood this morning. Almost there!




OK, you can have your thread back now!
Old 06-18-2014, 06:08 PM
  #40  
nine9six
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Keith,
Didn't I read in this or a different post, that you were using approx 1qt oil in 600 mi?

That seems like significant oil usage to warrant a top end! Hmmm...
Old 06-18-2014, 08:12 PM
  #41  
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CONGRATS KEITH !

GREAT NEWS
sai Be Gone!
More Canyon Runs recomended.

I will look into the SAI parts you spoke of,
Let me know what your mechanic recomends ?
Regards
Tom

Toronto, On. Ca.

Originally Posted by Kika
He said, "engine treatment". So I'm not sure which one, I was going to go over to O'Reillys later on and see what they have, I'm thinking probably a fuel system additive.

Over the several decades of working on Porsches, he has seen a lot of motors, so his advice is usually based on stuff he has seen.



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