bcameron59

But you might want to replace the o-rings on the through-case bolts to forestall (or resolve) oil leaks. As I understand it, you don them one at a time and re-torque to spec after each.

Wishing I had done this. Drip drip drip.

Kika

I'd be happy to list out the items to be done, as I develop it myself!

Starting point is a list I got from MGIANZERO, which is not to say I am going to do all these things, but these are items I plan to discuss with my mechanic.

- Aftermarket Phosphorous Bronze Valve Guides: Possibly Rennsport
- Expand SAI ports:
- Main Seal
- Valve Lifters
- VRAM intake Gasket
- Chain Case Gaskets
- R/R Engine Sound Pad
- Clean fuel injectors
- Chain Rails
- Engine Case Thru Bolt O-Rings
- Cylinder to Case O-Rings
- Power Steering Belt

- Distributor Belts/Distributor Bearings
- Alternator & Bearings


so wheres the little mojii of the wallet with dollar bills flying out of it?????

I'm not inclined to discuss prices, as that is unique to each mechanic/shop, and I don't want to get into a discussion about rates, and such.
I am willing to discuss technical details and hope to keep this thread on that track.

Jeff U

As long as the motor is out you might as well replace the clutch.

Sword_of_the_Spirit

I would do some 9m heads......Just me talking aloud.

After all, that bottom end can take quite a bit. If I recall correctly, it is the Turbo bottom minus some unique head "bits."

Kika

unfortunately I just had the tranny out for that last fall, also did the LWF: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-my-house.html

you are the second person to suggest 9m heads, I'm guessing they aren't cheap, but what are the technical reasons for them? What do they do/provide
and is there anyone stateside that does something similar?

Sword_of_the_Spirit

A lot more power. Significant (9m has it around 320-350 ancillary dependent which is not much) and no need to rebuild your existing heads (get core money back essentially). You save since you don't rebuild one and get the other.



Look up "993 TO 993TT ENGINE DIFFERENCES??" and you'll be surprised what you may find.

Sword_of_the_Spirit

Look up or contact 9m. He is reputable (to say the least) and can recommend some good options at this stage in the game. Once I get settled, mine will be off to him for some work.

Kika

From what I can tell, there are many other modifications to get to that point, including change to Motec and/or re-map of the ECU: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...tates-yet.html

and ~800 euros per cylinder, not sure where you see a "savings".

I did send an email off to 9M to find out a bit more though.

again where is that mojii with the dollar signs flying away???

Sword_of_the_Spirit

Long-term mate. Some keep their cars for life; others for around 5-7yrs.

Overall, one must figure out a long term plan when "opening" up any rebuild. You should know as the "what-ifs" start to come about.

After all, dropping an engine isn't an everyday occurance.

Remember that.

race911

^^^^ No, it's a 5-6 hour round trip. (2 on a carb/901 box car.)

Kika

This is the current parts list I have ordered for the Top End:

Power Steering Belt: 993-147-187-01
Engine Gasket Set: 993-100-902-00
Ultimate Engine Sound Pad: procured from AppBiz

Going to keep it relatively simple: Heads and Cam towers will be sent out to be cleaned up, new non OEM valve guides, SAI ports cleaned etc...

Depending on what we find when it gets opened up, valve lifters may be added to the list. Mechanic has to finish up some other cars before he starts on mine, so it may be 1-2 weeks before we get started. I plan to post pics of the heads and cam towers before and after.

Anyone have other suggestions, without going overboard?

Kika

CONCLUSION:

so after months of waiting to get on my mechanics calendar, and get through a backlog of cars, I finally got my car back today.

I went into this using my Actron 9180, which indicated a P1411 fault. I suspected it was a single bank, at that my ports had finally clogged. Since I don't drive the 993 very much, I don't track oil consumption accurately. I do add half a quart now and then, but I usually forget to document the mileage.

last week I was at the shop and Ruben decided to put his Bosch Hammer on the car and take a look, to see if he could set the drive monitors, so I could smog the car and then we could wait on the top end. lo and behold, there were 2 codes, P1411 and P0410, indicating that something OTHER than clogged ports could be the cause.

He checked the vacuum, and the system showed no leaks, good pressure. He ended up replacing parts 6 and 8 in the below diagram supplied by Hoggel, in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-cloging.html

9. Secondary Air Injection Pump
8. Pneumatic Secondary Air Injection Switching Valve
7. Check Valve
6. Electro-pneumatic Secondary Injection Switching Valve

previously I had the check valve (7) replaced. The Switching valve was NOT replaced at that time, but it probably should have been.

He tested the ports and air flow is good, so the suspicion is that the check valve was sticky and was not allowing good air flow to the O2 sensors, triggering the CEL.

The lesson I learned is to double check the fault codes as mine mislead me.

Car is now smogged and good for at least 2 more years!

gonzilla

Pretty sure you still need a new motor.

JB 911

+1

Joking asides that's great news Keith. Interesting too about replacing the switching valves. When you wrote this (below), did you mean the switching valves were sticky? So he must have tested the flow by activating the sai pump as opposed to just running compressed air thru the system to notice something wasn't right. Valuable lesson there. ANyways, now you can take all that money you were about to unload, put it in a good mutual fund and then when you are ready to do the topend you'll have the 9m heads covered

C4SJOHN

Kika, it is great that you now have your car back and you and now know what was the issues were. I Hope to see you again soon.....