1stgear

Just caught this thread for the first time. Love the color combo on your car. Red interiors are my fav.

Spyder_Man

Thanks for all the kind remarks on the car. The red interior REALLY sold me on the car. This 993 will really shine once it is brought back to its full glory.

Spyder_Man

As for the external restyling, I'm thinking something like Thatcher's 993 Ducked RSR with some Martini Livery thrown in.

Its very unlikely that I'd add the GT2/RSCS wheel well flares, but at this point its all just ideas in my head. I'm debating whether the RSCS front lip or aerokit/RS style front spoilers would pair better with a duck tail rear spoiler.

The livery would be toned down a bit too. I'm thinking red vinyl-wrapped lower front bumper spoiler, portion of side skirts (possibly just RS skirt trim), and lower section of rear bumper. Blue striped vinyl decals along the fender line. Maybe red Carrera side script. Possibly painted/wrapped Turbo-S front bumper ducts and side mirrors. I'm still wrestling with wheel face color ideas.







Who's talented with Photoshop?

Spyder_Man

Well I got her back from the mechanic after nearly three weeks there. The final list of what was done includes:

1) New Steering Rack, New Tie-Rods, Pinning of Tie-Rods, & Steering Rack Brace Installed

2) H&R Street Performance strut kit installed, New Ball-Joints on front A-Arms, Elephant Sport bushings on Front A-Arms/Rear A-Arms/Rear Caster Arms, Tarett Adjustable Front Drop Links, Tarett Adjustable Toe-Links, Elephant Front Camber Plates, New OEM Rubber Rear Shock Top Mounts (Elephant Monoball Mounts proved to require too much additional work/parts to bother with on a street setup with this strut kit)

3) RS engine mounts installed, Wide Ovals installed, & Gert's front protection bar installed

4) Oil change performed (Turned out the last guy who changed the oil in my car was an idiot and stripped the drain plug, so one oil leak is now fixed...)

5) Alignment and corner balancing performed with lowering to RS+10 (approximately) ride height.

All together parts and labor probably close to $10k.

Some parts were bought in advance and thanks to Rennlist, some parts were bargain buys.

While the mechanic probably spent longer than he should of on certain bits, he was flexible with my requests to self-supply the various performance parts that I wanted. I'll definitely go back there, but not for another 5k miles at least.

Here are some pics that I took when I picked her up from the shop:




And here are a few pics of the naughty bits viewed from under her skirt:



I suppose it is time to update the mods list on my signature. That or it is time to go for a drive!

mpruden

Looking good! How does she drive?

Spyder_Man

The shop is not far from home so I haven't had a chance to stretch her legs properly, yet. This weekend I have some back road driving to do. I'll report back after that.

pirahna

race911

^^^ Shocking? Mine was a near six figure build for the guy who commissioned it, off a car that probably started out similar. And that was over a decade ago.

Spyder_Man

Yup. So who wants to buy some wheels or other random car parts from my stash?

Also, the lower the car gets, the more out of proportion that turbo wing looks on the Narrow Body. It might be going up for sale soon too.

Paddy

Nice work. Money well spent IMO.

pirahna

If your Works wheels are priced fairly they should move pretty quick.

Is it a factory turbo tail? If so you can probably get someone to trade for original motorized lid or maybe a duck tail. If it is aftermarket you will probably have to sell it and take a loss and buy another lid for more money.

Spyder_Man

I'm pretty certain the rear wing isn't factory. I see no stamp or P/N codes on the underside. It is a well made aftermarket piece with a separate grill piece and the paint is in great shape. Because it is a turbo style the wing and the deck lid are a single piece (unlike the aero/RS wings being an addition to a standard deck lid). Dealing with the wing is a problem for a later date though.

If there aren't immediate takers on the wheels, I might put some sweat-equity into them by separating the centers from the barrels and stripping the paint off the centers myself. As a former chemist, I'm familiar with handling all sorts of nasty, reactive solvents.

Bill Verburg

I'm not on board w/ that sway bar setup
1) the single locking ring is probably ok for most purposes but a second one on the bottom would be a whole lot more secure
2) the sway bar connection to the mount has no freedom of movement and is likely to cause the mount to rotate

dual lock rings one on top and one on the bottom, drop links w/ spherical joints allow natural motion in 3 planes, yours should be shorter, straight and the sway bar still above the link

Spyder_Man

Bill, thanks for the pointers. I should add the photos of the suspension were taken prior to the alignment so I'm sure the positioning of the components has changed some. As for the locking rings, the mechanic used what was included with the H&R kit. I'm certain additional locking rings could be sourced to secure mount further.

Are you suggesting there should have been a drop link between the mount on the rear strut and the rear sway-bar that wasn't reattached by the mechanic? Or is that part of the RS sway-bar setup?

Bill Verburg

I certainly requested an extra lock ring on mine

Both noram and RS use drop links as do all the other setups.

The normal cars are shorter and straight and the sway runs above the toe link

Mine(pictured above) is RS, it is used only in lower cars where the longer, curved drop link allows the sway to run below the toe arm.

Above or below is a function of ride height and shock threading and mount design, you have plenty of thread above where the mount is pictured so the mount can be raised to use a short stock link or a similar after market version

Here's what a stock rear should look like