My Project Thread - Breathing New Life into a High Mileage '95 C2 Coupe
#16
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#18
Drifting
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Congrats on the car, very good timing as your prediction with 993s values are spot on!
My vote is for coilovers, sounds like your into DEs. Both systems are comparable, however there have been some complaints about the KWs, most recently MikeJ installed a set and wasn't fully impressed with the build quality. Do a search fore more info.
I would lose the Turbo spoiler too, you can prob get some $ for it in the used market which can help fund the replacement. It's way too heavy cosmetically for a NB. Replace it with the factory deck or if you can find one - a split grille. Other option would be the RS spoiler too.
Enjoy the slippery slope.
My vote is for coilovers, sounds like your into DEs. Both systems are comparable, however there have been some complaints about the KWs, most recently MikeJ installed a set and wasn't fully impressed with the build quality. Do a search fore more info.
I would lose the Turbo spoiler too, you can prob get some $ for it in the used market which can help fund the replacement. It's way too heavy cosmetically for a NB. Replace it with the factory deck or if you can find one - a split grille. Other option would be the RS spoiler too.
Enjoy the slippery slope.
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#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Hey folks. I thought I'd provide a brief update and ask a few more questions. First off I have a couple of repairs/mods in the works. This car came with an aggressive street setup (M030, factory SSK, LSD/ADB, and yet full leather interior and HiFi stereo). I'd like to honor that balance between performance and creature comforts with the mods that I do.
Repairs
I'll be replacing my distributor caps/rotors and steering rack boots in the near future. I look forward to having that rattle in the steering gone. I haven't experienced any issues with the ignition/timing of the engine, but the last mechanic that looked at the car warned me that the caps and rotors looked pretty well done at this point.
Other known issues include my valve cover gaskets are leaking and need replacement. My A-arm bushings are shot (Walrods are in my future). My struts, engine mounts, and possibly transmission mount need replacing. (More on this in the questions section.)
Mods
I have one mod in the works. I bought a iSimple ISFM22 TranzIt (Bluetooth transmitter) that attaches between the FM antenna and the head unit. I am hoping this when properly hooked up will add Bluetooth capability to my factory HiFi stereo system. I've had some issues with my CR-1 audio cutting out on occasion and whining sounds relating to throttle input. I can tell the car previously had some sort of hands-free devise installed so I am curious/afraid to see how horribly manged the wiring harnesses are on the backside of the CR-1. I'll post some photos and details of the install. I suspect there are others that want to keep the OEM stereo equipment while making it a bit more functional in the 21st century.
I'm restraining myself on spending money on additional mods until the repairs are all resolved. HIDs and key-less entry are darn tempting in the near-term. Fister Stage IIs are definitely on the to-do list. It also sounds like the FD Goldenrod is worth installing even with the factory RS SSK, so I'll plan on that.
Questions
I've got some lingering suspension questions, but first context:
1) I am on a budget. I cannot afford to go onto the RS-tribute slipper slope. Any dollar saved will go towards another mod/repair, but I really cannot sink a ton of cash into the car right now.
2) I am primarily using this car on the street. While I would like the car to be AX/DE ready for occasional fun, I anticipate 95% of the time I'll be using this car off the track.
Now the questions:
1) For primarily street usage, would I appreciate the premium of the PSS10s over HDs or Koni FSDs with ROW M030 springs?
I have heard online and in-person that if one can afford it, the PSS10s are the way to go for suspension. I am all for the do it once right and never replace it again approach too. I am just leery for the upfront price premium for the PSS10s. One of the local mechanics (who owns a 993TT and uses it as a street/track car) swears by PSS9/PSS10s. I am inclined to believe him, but I also don't want to be up-sold on things I don't need. I got a rough quote of $4500 for PSS10s installed with necessary bushing replacements and a performance alignment. Is this number in the right ballpark? Hourly rates around here are about $140. I'd certainly insist on walrod bushing replacements for the front A-arms being included. If I didn't go with PSS10s I'd definitely want to use ROW M030 springs and not M033s to preserve the sportiness of the car.
2) For the context of primarily street use, am I better off saving a bit of money and going with the WEVOs black or RS engine mounts?
My engine mounts are needing replacement, and I am debating between WEVO blacks and RS mounts. As stated earlier I don't see myself going down the RS-tribute slippery slope, but the RS mounts seem to be popular. I plan to install these mounts myself. I am uncertain whether the transmission mount should be replaced too. From what I've read WEVO doesn't offer a transmission mount solution for 993s, correct?
3) When is the best time to tackle the leaky valve cover gaskets?
As for the oil leaks, I've read some DIY guides on the valve cover gaskets; however, I think I'm more inclined to pay the mechanic to do this one. Is there enough shared labor to have them deal with this when the suspension is tackled, or would it be wiser to have this addressed when have the mufflers taken off for those Stage IIs that I'm dreaming of?
Thanks again for making this forum such a valuable resource.
Repairs
I'll be replacing my distributor caps/rotors and steering rack boots in the near future. I look forward to having that rattle in the steering gone. I haven't experienced any issues with the ignition/timing of the engine, but the last mechanic that looked at the car warned me that the caps and rotors looked pretty well done at this point.
Other known issues include my valve cover gaskets are leaking and need replacement. My A-arm bushings are shot (Walrods are in my future). My struts, engine mounts, and possibly transmission mount need replacing. (More on this in the questions section.)
Mods
I have one mod in the works. I bought a iSimple ISFM22 TranzIt (Bluetooth transmitter) that attaches between the FM antenna and the head unit. I am hoping this when properly hooked up will add Bluetooth capability to my factory HiFi stereo system. I've had some issues with my CR-1 audio cutting out on occasion and whining sounds relating to throttle input. I can tell the car previously had some sort of hands-free devise installed so I am curious/afraid to see how horribly manged the wiring harnesses are on the backside of the CR-1. I'll post some photos and details of the install. I suspect there are others that want to keep the OEM stereo equipment while making it a bit more functional in the 21st century.
I'm restraining myself on spending money on additional mods until the repairs are all resolved. HIDs and key-less entry are darn tempting in the near-term. Fister Stage IIs are definitely on the to-do list. It also sounds like the FD Goldenrod is worth installing even with the factory RS SSK, so I'll plan on that.
Questions
I've got some lingering suspension questions, but first context:
1) I am on a budget. I cannot afford to go onto the RS-tribute slipper slope. Any dollar saved will go towards another mod/repair, but I really cannot sink a ton of cash into the car right now.
2) I am primarily using this car on the street. While I would like the car to be AX/DE ready for occasional fun, I anticipate 95% of the time I'll be using this car off the track.
Now the questions:
1) For primarily street usage, would I appreciate the premium of the PSS10s over HDs or Koni FSDs with ROW M030 springs?
I have heard online and in-person that if one can afford it, the PSS10s are the way to go for suspension. I am all for the do it once right and never replace it again approach too. I am just leery for the upfront price premium for the PSS10s. One of the local mechanics (who owns a 993TT and uses it as a street/track car) swears by PSS9/PSS10s. I am inclined to believe him, but I also don't want to be up-sold on things I don't need. I got a rough quote of $4500 for PSS10s installed with necessary bushing replacements and a performance alignment. Is this number in the right ballpark? Hourly rates around here are about $140. I'd certainly insist on walrod bushing replacements for the front A-arms being included. If I didn't go with PSS10s I'd definitely want to use ROW M030 springs and not M033s to preserve the sportiness of the car.
2) For the context of primarily street use, am I better off saving a bit of money and going with the WEVOs black or RS engine mounts?
My engine mounts are needing replacement, and I am debating between WEVO blacks and RS mounts. As stated earlier I don't see myself going down the RS-tribute slippery slope, but the RS mounts seem to be popular. I plan to install these mounts myself. I am uncertain whether the transmission mount should be replaced too. From what I've read WEVO doesn't offer a transmission mount solution for 993s, correct?
3) When is the best time to tackle the leaky valve cover gaskets?
As for the oil leaks, I've read some DIY guides on the valve cover gaskets; however, I think I'm more inclined to pay the mechanic to do this one. Is there enough shared labor to have them deal with this when the suspension is tackled, or would it be wiser to have this addressed when have the mufflers taken off for those Stage IIs that I'm dreaming of?
Thanks again for making this forum such a valuable resource.
#20
Rennlist Member
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first, great looking car. I have a high mileage polar silver 95 myself (168k+ currently)
my 993 is on the ROW suspension setup, but I have owned 3 cars that I have run pss9/10s on. I adore the pss9/10 setup - Had them on my old mk5 vw, e39m5, and current daily diesel vw jetta wagon. they are an amazingly compliant suspension and are heads and shoulders above anything else I have used.
that being said, for a street car they probably are overkill. I have no complaints about my 993 on the ROW suspension - the ride is softer/less aggressive than the pss9/10 setup, but for a street car I dont know if this is a problem for you. I dont know how it is for porsches, but I know for VWs the pss9/10 system is more track oriented and the H&R options are more street oriented (with fixed dampening)-- for BMWs it was the opposite, the pss9/10 setups were much better on the street and the H&R units were reviewed as too harsh for the street.
that being said, for a street car they probably are overkill. I have no complaints about my 993 on the ROW suspension - the ride is softer/less aggressive than the pss9/10 setup, but for a street car I dont know if this is a problem for you. I dont know how it is for porsches, but I know for VWs the pss9/10 system is more track oriented and the H&R options are more street oriented (with fixed dampening)-- for BMWs it was the opposite, the pss9/10 setups were much better on the street and the H&R units were reviewed as too harsh for the street.
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Well I just got my distributor caps and rotors in the mail. I decided to dive right in and swap them while I had an hour of solid daylight left. Take a look at these comparisons and guess which parts are the new ones:
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Its anyone's guess how many miles of usage these old caps and rotors have seen.
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Its anyone's guess how many miles of usage these old caps and rotors have seen.
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
#22
Rennlist Member
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Congrats on the car ... you'll get tons of advice here ... some good some less so. One of the really good things is that there are lots of posts with different experiences to help with your decisions. There are also lots of links to other sites ... here is one you may find helpful ... http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/stage.htm ... it involves converting to a RS with several of his modifications similar to yours.
FWIW ... I run HD's w/ m033, a Golden Rod, SSK, FD stage II's and lowered to between ROW and RS height. It is still nice on the street and I'm learning a lot about this setup at DE's. So far my only regret was going with m033 instead of m030 ... it is fine for now as I have a lot to learn.
good luck with your projects ...
FWIW ... I run HD's w/ m033, a Golden Rod, SSK, FD stage II's and lowered to between ROW and RS height. It is still nice on the street and I'm learning a lot about this setup at DE's. So far my only regret was going with m033 instead of m030 ... it is fine for now as I have a lot to learn.
good luck with your projects ...
#23
Rennlist Member
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Honestly, if the $1K-1500 is the make-or-break on acceptable dampers and roll bars just save your money until you can get the good stuff. Sounds like you're already plugged in with Rob King, but you know our own Steve Weiner can also fix you up. This is all under the assumption you are going to push the car at all on track.
And don't discount how much you can DIY. Muffler removal takes about as much time as I'm spending typing this response. From there, lower valve covers are just another minor deal.
And don't discount how much you can DIY. Muffler removal takes about as much time as I'm spending typing this response. From there, lower valve covers are just another minor deal.
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
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I don't mean to brag much, but I succeeded at connecting the iSimple Tranzit Blu Bluetooth transmitter to my original CR-1 head unit. A previous owner had some stereo shop integrate a hands-free calling system back in the '90s, as made evident by the random remaining bits of wire and things remaining twist-tied to the wires under the dash and behind the head unit. I failed to take before pictures of the wire harness so you'll have to trust me when I say it was UGLY! Lots of electrical tape, twist-ties, and poorly spliced wiring.
The upside of all this clean-up work is that my radio signal strength has improved and so has the sound quality of the audio. I purchased some additional Motorola-style antenna plugs and some bullet plug connectors so that I can easily unplug the Tranzit Blue if I wish to later. I also dremeled out space for the on-off switch in the plastic piece that the spoiler and sunroof switches connect to. (A previous owner had already cut a slot in the plastic piece prior so I didn't feel so bad about expanding it and rounding it out to hold this switch.) I wish there wasn't that gap in the plastic trim between the round switch and the button blank, but again I can thank a previous owner for that one.
Now all I do is turn on Bluetooh, set my stereo to 88.5 FM (NPR), and queue up some tunes on Spotify.
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
Here are some pics documenting the installation:
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The upside of all this clean-up work is that my radio signal strength has improved and so has the sound quality of the audio. I purchased some additional Motorola-style antenna plugs and some bullet plug connectors so that I can easily unplug the Tranzit Blue if I wish to later. I also dremeled out space for the on-off switch in the plastic piece that the spoiler and sunroof switches connect to. (A previous owner had already cut a slot in the plastic piece prior so I didn't feel so bad about expanding it and rounding it out to hold this switch.) I wish there wasn't that gap in the plastic trim between the round switch and the button blank, but again I can thank a previous owner for that one.
Now all I do is turn on Bluetooh, set my stereo to 88.5 FM (NPR), and queue up some tunes on Spotify.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
Here are some pics documenting the installation:
![Name: photo 1.JPG
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Size: 141.0 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/993-forum/819780d1396057490-my-project-thread-breathing-new-life-into-a-high-mileage-95-c2-coupe-photo-1.jpg)
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#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Talking](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif)
So here is the latest installment in my 993 project thread...Today's topic, wheels! I just came into ownership of 6.5 WORK Brombacher FVD 3-piece wheels. The .5 is due to one wheel possible being beyond repair. The eighth wheel (or fourth wheel in the second set) was lost in a rather nasty crash on the track. The incident took out the '95 993 who wore these shoes out as well. ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Anyhow, here are some pictures:
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I am going to see if the damaged wheel can be mended (i.e. replacement outer lip and straightened inner lip). If so then I maybe on the hurt for an 8th wheel.
Clearly all wheels will need to be broken down, stripped, powder coated, and polished, but it will be worth it. Any suggestions on center wheel colors? I'm thinking either body color (Polar Silver) or 993 GT2 wheel grey.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Anyhow, here are some pictures:
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I am going to see if the damaged wheel can be mended (i.e. replacement outer lip and straightened inner lip). If so then I maybe on the hurt for an 8th wheel.
Clearly all wheels will need to be broken down, stripped, powder coated, and polished, but it will be worth it. Any suggestions on center wheel colors? I'm thinking either body color (Polar Silver) or 993 GT2 wheel grey.
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
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They were a good deal. The seller was willing to negotiate further too. He'd had them sitting in his garage for a while.
I have hear good things about Rite-Way in Walnut Creek. I'm up in the North Bay so I might shop around with the busted wheel in hand and see what estimates I get.
Is the GT2 grey metallic? Does it have a sparkle to it or is it matte? I've only seen photos.
I have hear good things about Rite-Way in Walnut Creek. I'm up in the North Bay so I might shop around with the busted wheel in hand and see what estimates I get.
Is the GT2 grey metallic? Does it have a sparkle to it or is it matte? I've only seen photos.