YAER (yet another engine rebuild)
#61
Racer
Thread Starter
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All of the tranny parts are in. The 1st gear shaft is splined for both 1st and 2nd, and includes the 13:41 RS 1st gear:
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/993_1stgear.jpg)
I have spent a lot of time with a xl spreadsheet and staring at Bill V's pretty graphs (really this entire post is a plea for BillV to create a graph for my trans ;-) What I ended up with is:
1st - new shaft splined for separate 1st/2nd gear, w RS 1st gear
13:41
2nd - This is the same 2nd gear in all USA boxes
21:43
3rd gear
25:39
4th gear
33:41
5th gear
32:33
6th gear - USA 5th gear
38:35
Ideally 6th would be slightly taller, but this was the best spacing I could find with Porsche gear sets that keeps my existing 5th. This does address the 1st->2nd gear RPM drop which is the bane of this gearbox by having 1st gear be taller.
-reiner
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/993_1stgear.jpg)
I have spent a lot of time with a xl spreadsheet and staring at Bill V's pretty graphs (really this entire post is a plea for BillV to create a graph for my trans ;-) What I ended up with is:
1st - new shaft splined for separate 1st/2nd gear, w RS 1st gear
13:41
2nd - This is the same 2nd gear in all USA boxes
21:43
3rd gear
25:39
4th gear
33:41
5th gear
32:33
6th gear - USA 5th gear
38:35
Ideally 6th would be slightly taller, but this was the best spacing I could find with Porsche gear sets that keeps my existing 5th. This does address the 1st->2nd gear RPM drop which is the bane of this gearbox by having 1st gear be taller.
-reiner
#64
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All of the tranny parts are in. The 1st gear shaft is splined for both 1st and 2nd, and includes the 13:41 RS 1st gear:
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/993_1stgear.jpg)
I have spent a lot of time with a xl spreadsheet and staring at Bill V's pretty graphs (really this entire post is a plea for BillV to create a graph for my trans ;-) What I ended up with is:
1st - new shaft splined for separate 1st/2nd gear, w RS 1st gear
13:41
2nd - This is the same 2nd gear in all USA boxes
21:43
3rd gear
25:39
4th gear
33:41
5th gear
32:33
6th gear - USA 5th gear
38:35
Ideally 6th would be slightly taller, but this was the best spacing I could find with Porsche gear sets that keeps my existing 5th. This does address the 1st->2nd gear RPM drop which is the bane of this gearbox by having 1st gear be taller.
-reiner
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/993_1stgear.jpg)
I have spent a lot of time with a xl spreadsheet and staring at Bill V's pretty graphs (really this entire post is a plea for BillV to create a graph for my trans ;-) What I ended up with is:
1st - new shaft splined for separate 1st/2nd gear, w RS 1st gear
13:41
2nd - This is the same 2nd gear in all USA boxes
21:43
3rd gear
25:39
4th gear
33:41
5th gear
32:33
6th gear - USA 5th gear
38:35
Ideally 6th would be slightly taller, but this was the best spacing I could find with Porsche gear sets that keeps my existing 5th. This does address the 1st->2nd gear RPM drop which is the bane of this gearbox by having 1st gear be taller.
-reiner
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads22/Reiner_mod11394112808.gif)
I agree 6th should be taller, .889 to .8862 would be far better
#65
Racer
Thread Starter
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Thanks Bill!! Its because of the great information that you and others have posted that pushed me to do the regear. Having a non-vram car makes it extra important to stay in power band.
My Uncle who lives in Kornwestheim (Just north of Stuttgart) always joked with me "Why not give me your 6th gear and I will give it back to Porsche, since you never use it"![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-reiner
My Uncle who lives in Kornwestheim (Just north of Stuttgart) always joked with me "Why not give me your 6th gear and I will give it back to Porsche, since you never use it"
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-reiner
#67
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![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads22/Reiner_11394141152.gif)
If Reiners engine is similar
2-3 is ok
3-4 is perfect
4-5 there is too much of a tail on 4, so 5 could stand to be taller
5-6 there is way too much tail so 6 could be taller
an engine w/ different torque curve, rev limit or tires changes things
#68
Addict
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just remember to also replace the thru bolt orings while the p/c's are off.....
can't believe steve didn't tell you that...lol.... good luck with the job....
vinnie
can't believe steve didn't tell you that...lol.... good luck with the job....
vinnie
#69
RL Technical Advisor
#70
Racer
Thread Starter
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Yep -- I have a set of the thru bolt O-rings. They look like they are blueish in color, and when I got some for a friend a long time ago his were definitely dark-orange-brown.
Any differences between the bolts and what to lube them with? I have some dow55 that I was going to use but I am wondering about the smurf blue O-rings I now have...
-reiner
Any differences between the bolts and what to lube them with? I have some dow55 that I was going to use but I am wondering about the smurf blue O-rings I now have...
-reiner
#72
Racer
Thread Starter
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Pistons, cylinders, and rods are ready to go off to the machine shop tomorrow. I have a few picts of wear that I wanted to post to for general feedback (since I have never rebuilt an engine, I don't know what is 'normal'):
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rockershaft.jpg)
Rocker shafts all had about the same wear patter from the oil hole, so I am guessing this is normal?
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rodbearing_4.jpg)
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rodbearing_4out.jpg)
The #4 rod bearing on the piston side looked the worse of all. Top pic is of the crank side, bottom of the rod side.
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rodbearing_6.jpg)
Finally, the #6 rod bearing on the piston side looked fairly worn on the crank side.
Current hope is to have everything back together by 2nd week of april.
-reiner
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rockershaft.jpg)
Rocker shafts all had about the same wear patter from the oil hole, so I am guessing this is normal?
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rodbearing_4.jpg)
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rodbearing_4out.jpg)
The #4 rod bearing on the piston side looked the worse of all. Top pic is of the crank side, bottom of the rod side.
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/rodbearing_6.jpg)
Finally, the #6 rod bearing on the piston side looked fairly worn on the crank side.
Current hope is to have everything back together by 2nd week of april.
-reiner
#73
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What does the crank look like? I assume no scuffing, just requires a light polish? Clean out the oil passages as well in the crank. Definetly some bearing wear, but it does not look too bad if the crank is good.
How about the rocker and rod bushings?
Cheers
Mike
How about the rocker and rod bushings?
Cheers
Mike
#74
Racer
Thread Starter
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Crank looks fine from what I can see, however the case halves are still together and I am leaning toward not splitting the bottom end at this point, so I have not yet tried to measure the crank journals.
The rockers are all getting replaced (some '95 cars had older shorter rockers that were superseded to longer ones that are required for the RS cams), however the originals show very little wear.
Rod bushings look good as well. Just a tiny bit of wear on #5 that I didn't bother taking a picture of.
Again, thanks for your website! I have had to pull the gloves off in the garage and pull it up to peek around during the project several times thus far.
-reiner
The rockers are all getting replaced (some '95 cars had older shorter rockers that were superseded to longer ones that are required for the RS cams), however the originals show very little wear.
Rod bushings look good as well. Just a tiny bit of wear on #5 that I didn't bother taking a picture of.
Again, thanks for your website! I have had to pull the gloves off in the garage and pull it up to peek around during the project several times thus far.
-reiner
#75
Racer
Thread Starter
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So, I have decided to split the case:
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/split_case.jpg)
The basic reasoning is that in order to measure the crank journals accurately you really need to do this. Also, I don't think I could clean the case without having a lot of gunk fall inside, and this way I can clean the ouside and more importantly make sure the inside is also clean. Finally, since I have 150k on the car, I can replace the timing chains and not worry about those failing for another 200+ miles.
Plus, now I get to buy more parts and spend more time in the garage.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-reiner
![](http://home.comcast.net/~thorinfinch/split_case.jpg)
The basic reasoning is that in order to measure the crank journals accurately you really need to do this. Also, I don't think I could clean the case without having a lot of gunk fall inside, and this way I can clean the ouside and more importantly make sure the inside is also clean. Finally, since I have 150k on the car, I can replace the timing chains and not worry about those failing for another 200+ miles.
Plus, now I get to buy more parts and spend more time in the garage.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-reiner