pipingken1

Learning a lot about break in oil and Dino oil from this thread.

Which oils did you use and for how long ?

jhg41977

I used Brad Penn 30w break in oil for the 20 min at 2,000 rpm stationary break in. Drain, replace filters and refill with Brad Penn 20-50 partial synthetic and run for 500 miles alternating between loaded and unloaded moving break in (2,000rpm 3rd gear, run up to 5,000 rpm w foot on floor, shift to fourth and run up to 5,000 rpm, then unload by releasing throttle fully and decelerating to 2,000 rpm in third, repeat) run for 500 miles, drain and replace filters. Repeat for another 500 miles. At this point I drained, replaced filters, filled with Brad Penn 20-50 partial synthetic again. Then I checked the leak down numbers to confirm a solid run in and seating of rings. Im at 5,000 miles now and several track events. After this next event I will check leak down again because I am curious. The engine feels very strong so I do not expect any issues.

ReinerFink

For my break-in, I used the Brad Penn breakin 30W for the first fill and the 20min run in. Since I forgot to empty my oil catch basin (heh) I also went for another 10min drive the next day and then dumped that oil + both filters. Next I used two remaining bottles of the breakin 30W and the rest was the Penn 20w-50. Will dump all of this again at 500mi + more new filters.

Went for another drive this AM and a few updates:

1. First, the car stalls when coming to a stop about 1/3 of the time with the LW FW. Hoping the new chip will fix this.

2. The when idling for more than ~60 seconds, it decides to throw a P0043 - HO2S code. Right when the CEL lights up, the idle becomes more rough. I didn't change the O2 sensor during the rebuild and I'll pick a new one up on Monday. However I though I would throw this out there in case someone knows that a '95 with RS cams will throw this code due to the ECU not having received the new chip or such.

3. A close ratio gearbox is very different than stock (duh). The RPM drop I have between 5th and 6th is ridiculously small (<800rpm) so it kind of makes this a 5 spd transmission I would spring for the extra $1200 for a different 6th now having driven it, but was trying to save $$ by re-using stock 5th gear. Oh well, something for a transmission refresh 50k from now. Also the new gearbox makes varying the RPM for break in more challenging: I bring 3rd gear up to 5500RPM and shift to 4th and I am back just below 5000 and I get back to 5500RPM in before I can remove my hand from the shifter.

4. The noise the car makes at about 4400 RPM is totally different than before. Its like a air-tearing NAAAAA! Really didn't expect that... I would think something might be wrong except it pulls strongly and smoothly all the way to 6800.

I need to just take it to the track to finish the break in. I'm trying to get to Pacific Raceways next weekend, but I need to make sure that I get an alignment before then.

jhg41977

I missed the close ratio gearbox, nice!! I'd love to get that done but $$.

pipingken1

Thanks for the info, not sure we can get Penn easily in the UK but I'll check it out.

ReinerFink

Its on ebay, however I don't know about shipping to UK. Might be steep and don't know about the "hazardous exports" issues you could run into shipping oil with zinc in it.

pipingken1

I have found a UK supplier.

They list an 'XP5 20W-50 Semi Synthetic Race engine oil' does that sound correct ? (the BR30 is straight forward)

ReinerFink

Finished off 500 miles after the rebuild, so I decided to change the oil and tranny fluid today. Below is a picture of the tranny drain plug:



Let this be a reminder to everyone else who does a transmission refresh -- totally worth changing fluid at 500mi. Neat mix of ferrous bits and tranny fluid forming a gooey yuck.

I am going to put in a new ECU tomorrow and possibly go get a Dyno run (any recommendations for DynoJet locations near Seattle? Looks like Max RPM Motorsports is where I will go) to get AFR data to tune the ECU.

mongrelcat

Dyno --> CarbConn in Kirkland
http://www.carbconn.com/

ReinerFink

Thx mongrel! Will give them a call tomorrow.

mongrelcat

Welcome! Just watch out for crazy traffic this week.

Bring a thumbdrive with you and ask them for your runfiles. Then download WinPep from this link and you can view your runs.

http://www.dynojet.com/Downloads/Sof...Firmware-Other

Here's mine from a few years back for comparison (Wong chip on otherwise stock '95 with 110K miles at the time.)

ReinerFink

Went to CarbCon in Kirkland today and did a dyno run with only the finest 92 octane that Costco has to offer



Send the data to Steve Wong for him to update the chip. I am relieved that the #'s are about where I though they should be given the VRAM valves and RS cams. For anyone else doing a rebuild, this is a great "did I do something wrong" step that I highly recommend (of course, if it said things sucked, then I would recommend you forgo it, hehe).

pipingken1

Just getting the jitters about mine going back together, Did you change to steel synchros and if so did you change the cones ?

ReinerFink

I did get new steel (928.304.211.30) synchros, however I didn't get any cones that I am aware of. I asked Jeff to make sure everything else was "good" and the only other thing he replaced that he mentioned to me was the 3rd/4th gear shift fork.

Transmissions are the last thing that scare me now that I have done the engine rebuild...

pipingken1

We swapped these out n 3, 4, 5 and 6 because the steel synchros on 1 and 2 looked fine.

We didn't change any forks but had wondered if you needed the RS fork to make the rest work.

Currently having got the tranny back in we don't have synchromesh on 3 to 6.