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YAER (yet another engine rebuild)

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Old 05-12-2014, 09:23 PM
  #151  
Mike J
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I hear yah - these engines a like a swiss watch - every part just goes swoooosh and glide together if correct - binding or any other things means stop and look around.

Sorry to hear that you have an issue, but better now than later. You think the cam housing is OK? I find it amazing that the camshafts run on bare aluminum though ... !!

Cheers,

Mike
Old 05-12-2014, 09:36 PM
  #152  
Ed Hughes
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Actually, the lesson learned is don't even trust new parts.
Old 05-13-2014, 12:17 AM
  #153  
ReinerFink
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Originally Posted by Mike J
You think the cam housing is OK?
I sure hope so. Its not a high stress area, and the alternative is to replace the entire cam housing. I test fit my old camshaft and there was no play at all and it rotated smoothly, so the hope is there is enough good journal area that all will be well.

It reminds me of the older 911 cases where the intermediate shaft ran directly on the aluminum. Apparently they worked well enough there that even modifying those cases to accept bearings was not really worth the effort.
Old 05-15-2014, 01:17 AM
  #154  
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Okidokey -- replacement Left side RS cam arrived today, and went smoothly in. Finally got around to measuring the cam sprocket parallelism. It looks like I will need two more shims on each side for a total or 4 on the Left and 4 on the Right to get the new sprockets all lined up with the intermediate shaft. Factory manual mentions 3 on the Left and 4 on the right is normal, so perhaps its a bit strange I started out with only two on each side.

Making the measurement with the Stomski racing tool is fairly straightforward, however my std deviation was about 0.07mm making repeated measurements.
Old 05-15-2014, 01:24 AM
  #155  
Ed Hughes
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Glad the new cam slid in. Sounds like the pre-bolted heads to towers wasn't an issue. I'd only question that they did assemble them with sealant, and that they weren't simply bolted up for shipment.
Old 05-15-2014, 09:00 AM
  #156  
jhg41977
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Are you replacing the accelerator cable? Mine looked mine, had about 90k on it, so I reused it. 2,000 or so miles in and it frayed. Throttle became stuck while on track, thankfully I missed a downshift and was lugging up a hill. No damage, stayed on track, towed it home. It did not snap but it was barely hanging on. Now I am trying to replace it while to motor is in the car, more difficult. You may want to just replace yours since it's easy while the engine is out. Also, buy a few of those plastic cups that hold the tittle in place, one of mine broke when I reinstalled the cable.
Old 05-15-2014, 11:31 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
I'd only question that they did assemble them with sealant, and that they weren't simply bolted up for shipment.
I could see the squeeze out of the Loctite 574, and I double checked with Jeff and he said "they are ready to be bolted up". It was actually nice having that step all done for me. I think this is how he must rebuild his engines, with the cam towers + heads pre-assembled.
Old 05-15-2014, 11:45 AM
  #158  
Mike J
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Originally Posted by jhg41977
Are you replacing the accelerator cable? Mine looked mine, had about 90k on it, so I reused it. 2,000 or so miles in and it frayed. Throttle became stuck while on track, thankfully I missed a downshift and was lugging up a hill. No damage, stayed on track, towed it home. It did not snap but it was barely hanging on. Now I am trying to replace it while to motor is in the car, more difficult. You may want to just replace yours since it's easy while the engine is out. Also, buy a few of those plastic cups that hold the tittle in place, one of mine broke when I reinstalled the cable.
Interesting - its very rare to have issues with this cable -> you think it had to do with the removal/installation process since it looked fine when you re-used it?

Cheers,

Mike
Old 05-15-2014, 11:48 AM
  #159  
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I am not certain what caused failure. The breaks were all inside the sheath so I don't think it was install damage. I could be wrong though. The cable isn't real expensive, I would replace it while doing the engine if I do another one with similar age/mileage on it
Old 05-15-2014, 11:53 AM
  #160  
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I'll take a good look at the throttle cable - I have the drivers seat out (for ECU access) and the engine out so replacing it wouldn't be that much trouble (I say that having not looked into the task )
Old 05-15-2014, 12:14 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by ReinerFink
I'll take a good look at the throttle cable - I have the drivers seat out (for ECU access) and the engine out so replacing it wouldn't be that much trouble (I say that having not looked into the task )
Five min job with the engine out. I had to do mine with the engine in a few years back -- not fun. Easy to check if the cable slides smoothly in the sleeve, just disconnect the front and then test the movement.
Old 05-16-2014, 01:12 AM
  #162  
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A few update picts:

Newer cam washer with raised center is the update part for all of those cars that don't index the cam with a pin ah-la 964 style. I replaced mine because they are cheap.



This one is in honor of MikeJ! !!RED CAM LUBE GOOP!!



And finally a shot as I start to setup to do factory timing (cam tools are now attached to the back, crank setup for tool to lock flywheel):

Old 05-16-2014, 01:25 AM
  #163  
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One more funny thing -- I used a 10mm socket with shop air to remove the nuts from the cam housing cover studs. I think that was a first for me -- impact gun with a 10mm!

Last edited by ReinerFink; 05-16-2014 at 08:11 AM.
Old 05-16-2014, 02:12 AM
  #164  
Mike J
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Looking good!
Old 05-20-2014, 04:07 AM
  #165  
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Few more updates:

I am going to a single pulley setup, and the Rothsport pulley doesn't fit the factory tool to hold it in place (the inner diameter of the hole on the holder tool needs to be 2mm bigger), so I put some old brake caliper bolts to good use to get the 125 ft-lbs of torque needed:



Next, putting the exhaust back on, I found this gem. A little anti-seize and its good to go



Finally, I am at the point where I need to put the wiring harness and spark plugs back:



Anyone have tips for cleaning the wiring harness / spark plug wires? I am not going to hose them down with brakeclean... perhaps very little simple green and wipe up with shop towels?


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