Impressive work. Looking forward to watching the progress. Subscribed.

 

Having done this to a flat 6 a couple of times, and considering myself a diligent worker when faced with a fairly large project (built an airplane in 5 months), a 1 week build is quite impressive. I'd be curious to see before & after results on power. By chance do you have any before data you can compare to after?

I was almost afraid to do an after dyno on my old 3.2/3.4-after spending what could've bought a nice 80's Carrera on the engine only, I would've hated to not see any gains.

Best of luck, can't wait for the updates.

 

Great rebuild and have been there!

I too am from Vermont where my 997 C4S is kept and now down at my Florida residence where my 993 C4 is kept.

 

What exactly are you doing to the vram manifold?

 

And you haven't had a 911 or 993 engine apart in 10 years? Wow, impressive work NP!!

 

Well played, I think a few people here have missed the fact that she is being built with 9M Heads.....

The main benefit is to be able to use a much more aggressive cam (Both Lift and Duration).

Hydraulic lifters need very smooth ramps on the CAMS with limited lift. 993 RS cams are the most aggressive you can go to with hydraulic lifters.

 

^ Thanks for that Steven. Always nice to learn new things.

 

Steady progress. Got my rods back, ARP bolts installed, mounted on the crank, and the case assembled. Rod big ends had to be honed because of the significantly higher torque setting for the ARP bolts, which distorts the big ends ever so slightly.

Finished cleaning parts and assembling new caps, rotors, and wires. Installed new pilot bearing and throw-out bearing (rest of clutch is fine). Installed exhaust studs in heads (see mockup below which ensured I was putting the studs in the right diagonal orientation). Changed the oil in the gearbox, installed a new fuel filter, bled the slave cylinder (tip: when you drop the engine, instead of disconnecting the hydraulic line to the slave, unbolt it from the gearbox via its two 13mm nuts -- with this method you don't open up the hydraulic system and thus you won't have to bleed the slave when the engine's back in).

Tomorrow will be the big day -- should have the long block finished, and from there it should (hopefully) be smooth sailing. Aiming to fire it up Sunday night.

 

Yup -- LN Engineering 102mm slip-fit cylinders.

Heads/cylinders/pistons are brand new

Thanks Mike -- your very detailed rebuild threads have been a confidence-builder and great source of knowledge for this project. Been meaning to thank you for documenting your work so thoroughly. I've consulted those threads dozens of times.

As far as the cleanliness of the parts -- at least for my seven years/55K of ownership, most of those miles are highway, and I've been pretty meticulous about oil changes and oil selection (I've been using Mobil 1 V-twin 20/50). Previous owners changed the oil every 3K and used M1 15-50. No windage on this -- that's only relevant, as I understand it, on high-RPM track engines, and I only do the occasional DE, so just no need.

 

Great work!

 

Basically, port-matching. Ensuring a consistent ID from the tops of the intake manifolds through the injector blocks to where they bolt onto the intake ports of the heads.

 

Great info... Subscribed!

 

Subscribed; carry on...

 

Nice. That process is a mystery to me. How can you tell if things match when they are bolted together? How do you know where to take material off?

 

I have to credit 9M for the tip-off here. But port-matching is a pretty common thing to do, and it's not that hard. You just look at the ID profile through the various segments of the intake -- in this case (going north to south) the varioram manifold, the rubber sleeve connector, the injector block, and the intake port. You make sure there's a smooth transition throughout. The faster the intake charge, the more cylinder filling you get, and the more power. This is why bigger ports don't always mean more power -- because the bigger the port, all things equal the slower the intake charge. Think about putting your thumb over the end of a garden hose. The water flows faster the more you restrict it. There are lots more variables on a four-stroke engine, of course, and needless to say most of the details are beyond my pay grade.