Resurface Rotors
#31
Rennlist Member
I never said that the price you paid did not exist. You're getting a screaming deal on turned rotors at $7/disc; I wonder what percentage of Porsche mechanics across the country would be able to do it for that paltry sum.
#32
Nordschleife Master
I have always resisted the temptation to turn rotors simply to eliminate the unsightly longitudinal grooves. I'd rather keep the rotor as thick as possible. The new pads will quickly conform to the the grooves of the rotor, and think of all the extra pad contact are you've gained. This has never caused any squealing in the past. I think that brake shops over-sell rotor turning to an uninformed public. Just bed those new pads VERY carefully!
#33
ORIGINAL POST:
Ed,
Lets try to stay on point here...
Standard engineering practice, does not equate to me being enamored with Porsche engineers...
I was responding to the OP, not your potential driving habits or specifics.
Maybe, in a separate post, we should start a poll to see how many do a full brake refresh, including new pads, rotors, and fluid flush on an annual basis.
I'm right there with you on an annual brake system inspection and a fluid flush, but not a complete refresh, in sticking to the OP point.
I think with all that we want to do to these cars and the slippery slope as it is, most (not all) would find the aforementioned $900 + refresh, excessive if not unnecessary on an annual basis.
Peace out, my brother
Mark,
I agree I am getting a great deal...I have been going to this same machine shop for years and years...I use an automotive performance machine shop, not a middle man Porsche mechanic who needs to send rotors out to be machined...This takes a Porsche mechanic time and touch, which as we all know = $. I'm a DIY kinda guy.
I am only relating my experience...Your results may vary!
Resurface Rotors
Hi!
I have brakes that are around 80% but the only problem is the previous owner glazed my disks slightly and they squeak. Is it worth having the disks lightly re-surfaced and installing new OEM pads? If not I will just wait out the brakes a while and replace everything.
Hi!
I have brakes that are around 80% but the only problem is the previous owner glazed my disks slightly and they squeak. Is it worth having the disks lightly re-surfaced and installing new OEM pads? If not I will just wait out the brakes a while and replace everything.
Paul, let's not get too enamored with Porsche engineers......do we need to start the list again?
Personally, for a car that can be driven in anger, and only sees so many miles a year-I'll stick with "full meat" rotors, instead of a resurface. I've done enough track days in the past, that is goes against my will to not do everything humanly possible to avoid a soft brake pedal.
Amortized, a full brake refresh isn't very expensive on an annual basis.
Personally, for a car that can be driven in anger, and only sees so many miles a year-I'll stick with "full meat" rotors, instead of a resurface. I've done enough track days in the past, that is goes against my will to not do everything humanly possible to avoid a soft brake pedal.
Amortized, a full brake refresh isn't very expensive on an annual basis.
Lets try to stay on point here...
Standard engineering practice, does not equate to me being enamored with Porsche engineers...
I was responding to the OP, not your potential driving habits or specifics.
Maybe, in a separate post, we should start a poll to see how many do a full brake refresh, including new pads, rotors, and fluid flush on an annual basis.
I'm right there with you on an annual brake system inspection and a fluid flush, but not a complete refresh, in sticking to the OP point.
I think with all that we want to do to these cars and the slippery slope as it is, most (not all) would find the aforementioned $900 + refresh, excessive if not unnecessary on an annual basis.
Peace out, my brother
I agree I am getting a great deal...I have been going to this same machine shop for years and years...I use an automotive performance machine shop, not a middle man Porsche mechanic who needs to send rotors out to be machined...This takes a Porsche mechanic time and touch, which as we all know = $. I'm a DIY kinda guy.
I am only relating my experience...Your results may vary!
Last edited by nine9six; 01-04-2014 at 02:42 PM.
#34
I have always resisted the temptation to turn rotors simply to eliminate the unsightly longitudinal grooves. I'd rather keep the rotor as thick as possible. The new pads will quickly conform to the the grooves of the rotor, and think of all the extra pad contact are you've gained. This has never caused any squealing in the past. I think that brake shops over-sell rotor turning to an uninformed public. Just bed those new pads VERY carefully!
#35
nine9six,
That you can get rotors turned for $7 each is a great deal even if its not really worth the effort. I'm having a hard time figuring how the money pencils out for those that turn rotors at $7. How long does it take to turn a rotor from setup to finish? Between labor, wear and tear on the lathe, and shop overhead, I don't see how it works out.
That you can get rotors turned for $7 each is a great deal even if its not really worth the effort. I'm having a hard time figuring how the money pencils out for those that turn rotors at $7. How long does it take to turn a rotor from setup to finish? Between labor, wear and tear on the lathe, and shop overhead, I don't see how it works out.
#36
nine9six,
That you can get rotors turned for $7 each is a great deal even if its not really worth the effort. I'm having a hard time figuring how the money pencils out for those that turn rotors at $7. How long does it take to turn a rotor from setup to finish? Between labor, wear and tear on the lathe, and shop overhead, I don't see how it works out.
That you can get rotors turned for $7 each is a great deal even if its not really worth the effort. I'm having a hard time figuring how the money pencils out for those that turn rotors at $7. How long does it take to turn a rotor from setup to finish? Between labor, wear and tear on the lathe, and shop overhead, I don't see how it works out.
I measure my rotors in 4 places and record my dims on the rotors in felt tip marker. I stone any high spots from the locating faces of my rotors, prior to going to the machine shop.
Once the proper mandrel has been selected, the machinist slaps a dial indicator on the rotor to note runnout. If a skim cut can be performed which removes runnout, but does not exceed min. rotor thickness, (simple math based upon my recorded dims) the cut is made. This is all automatic and takes a machinist maybe 10 mins. of his actual hands on time based upon my prep work. Once the machine is started, the machinist goes onto something else until the cut is finished...Next rotor is slapped onto the machine and checked with a dial indicator (2 mins).
Having been a machinist for 15 yrs in my earlier days, I am well aware of the prep work that needs to be done, and the datum references that need to be respected in order to result in a properly turned rotor. Maybe its my knowledge and DIY skills that enable the machinist to use as little of his time which results in the $7 per rotor turning fee he charges. Speaking the same language (using correct machinist nomenclature) doesn't hurt, either
#37
Are you familiar with a rotor turning machine and what surfaces need to be parallel and concentric with each other? Have you ever turned or blanchard ground a rotor yourself?
I measure my rotors in 4 places and record my dims on the rotors in felt tip marker. I stone any high spots from the locating faces of my rotors, prior to going to the machine shop.
Once the proper mandrel has been selected, the machinist slaps a dial indicator on the rotor to note runnout. If a skim cut can be performed which removes runnout, but does not exceed min. rotor thickness, (simple math based upon my recorded dims) the cut is made. This is all automatic and takes a machinist maybe 10 mins. of his actual hands on time based upon my prep work. Once the machine is started, the machinist goes onto something else until the cut is finished...Next rotor is slapped onto the machine and checked with a dial indicator (2 mins).
Having been a machinist for 15 yrs in my earlier days, I am well aware of the prep work that needs to be done, and the datum references that need to be respected in order to result in a properly turned rotor. Maybe its my knowledge and DIY skills that enable the machinist to use as little of his time which results in the $7 per rotor turning fee he charges. Speaking the same language (using correct machinist nomenclature) doesn't hurt, either
I measure my rotors in 4 places and record my dims on the rotors in felt tip marker. I stone any high spots from the locating faces of my rotors, prior to going to the machine shop.
Once the proper mandrel has been selected, the machinist slaps a dial indicator on the rotor to note runnout. If a skim cut can be performed which removes runnout, but does not exceed min. rotor thickness, (simple math based upon my recorded dims) the cut is made. This is all automatic and takes a machinist maybe 10 mins. of his actual hands on time based upon my prep work. Once the machine is started, the machinist goes onto something else until the cut is finished...Next rotor is slapped onto the machine and checked with a dial indicator (2 mins).
Having been a machinist for 15 yrs in my earlier days, I am well aware of the prep work that needs to be done, and the datum references that need to be respected in order to result in a properly turned rotor. Maybe its my knowledge and DIY skills that enable the machinist to use as little of his time which results in the $7 per rotor turning fee he charges. Speaking the same language (using correct machinist nomenclature) doesn't hurt, either
My paternal grandfather was a machinist and my maternal grandfather was a metallurgist if that counts for anything. I did a 3 year stint in a heat treating company as a quality control/furnace operator but admittedly I've been a military officer for the last 18 years.
#39
Rennlist Member
Where did ANNUAL refresh ever come into the conversation??
ORIGINAL POST:
Ed,
Lets try to stay on point here...
Standard engineering practice, does not equate to me being enamored with Porsche engineers...
I was responding to the OP, not your potential driving habits or specifics.
Maybe, in a separate post, we should start a poll to see how many do a full brake refresh, including new pads, rotors, and fluid flush on an annual basis.
I'm right there with you on an annual brake system inspection and a fluid flush, but not a complete refresh, in sticking to the OP point.
I think with all that we want to do to these cars and the slippery slope as it is, most (not all) would find the aforementioned $900 + refresh, excessive if not unnecessary on an annual basis.
Peace out, my brother
Mark,
I agree I am getting a great deal...I have been going to this same machine shop for years and years...I use an automotive performance machine shop, not a middle man Porsche mechanic who needs to send rotors out to be machined...This takes a Porsche mechanic time and touch, which as we all know = $. I'm a DIY kinda guy.
I am only relating my experience...Your results may vary!
Ed,
Lets try to stay on point here...
Standard engineering practice, does not equate to me being enamored with Porsche engineers...
I was responding to the OP, not your potential driving habits or specifics.
Maybe, in a separate post, we should start a poll to see how many do a full brake refresh, including new pads, rotors, and fluid flush on an annual basis.
I'm right there with you on an annual brake system inspection and a fluid flush, but not a complete refresh, in sticking to the OP point.
I think with all that we want to do to these cars and the slippery slope as it is, most (not all) would find the aforementioned $900 + refresh, excessive if not unnecessary on an annual basis.
Peace out, my brother
Mark,
I agree I am getting a great deal...I have been going to this same machine shop for years and years...I use an automotive performance machine shop, not a middle man Porsche mechanic who needs to send rotors out to be machined...This takes a Porsche mechanic time and touch, which as we all know = $. I'm a DIY kinda guy.
I am only relating my experience...Your results may vary!
#40
Amortized, a full brake refresh isn't very expensive on an annual basis.
Let nine9six cut his rotors until he's happy. He seems to be the only unhappy party here. In the meantime I'll replace mine...
I find this the case when dollars exceeds sense!
Last edited by nine9six; 01-04-2014 at 09:14 PM.
#41
Rennlist Member
To think one needs to completely replace brake components annually is totally silly.
#42
Race Car
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Miamah, La Florida
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You and Quad must be friends. Nobody likes to be given their own opinion and you sir, seem to not understand that. Talking trash about others and their thoughts is ok to a point. This is the Internet. In the real world someone would just get up and walk away and stop listening after a while, now is that time...
#43
Paul, let's not get too enamored with Porsche engineers......do we need to start the list again?
Personally, for a car that can be driven in anger, and only sees so many miles a year-I'll stick with "full meat" rotors, instead of a resurface. I've done enough track days in the past, that is goes against my will to not do everything humanly possible to avoid a soft brake pedal.
Amortized, a full brake refresh isn't very expensive on an annual basis.
Personally, for a car that can be driven in anger, and only sees so many miles a year-I'll stick with "full meat" rotors, instead of a resurface. I've done enough track days in the past, that is goes against my will to not do everything humanly possible to avoid a soft brake pedal.
Amortized, a full brake refresh isn't very expensive on an annual basis.
My apologies...this is where I got the reference that I believed to be your post regarding a full brake refresh on an annual basis. I boldfaced the text that gave me the impression that this is what you were saying...
It is also my belief and opinion that turned rotors do not result in a soft brake pedal...That would be the hydraulic braking system, including lines, moisture, hoses, seals, calipers, caliper bleed valves...The list goes on and on...
Happy New Year and great job on Sapphire clutch, and while you were in there work...Fantastic write-up and fun to follow!
Cheers,
Paul
#44
Rennlist Member
Thanks Paul!
My reference to soft brake pedal was from excessive heat generated at the track, hence my severe aversion to turning rotors, and losing any mass at all in the rotors.
My reference to soft brake pedal was from excessive heat generated at the track, hence my severe aversion to turning rotors, and losing any mass at all in the rotors.