zooming993

Has anyone purchased one of these tools? There is one listed on Ebay for $299.99. After my RMS installation failure today my confidence has taken a hit and I'm now thinking I should buy one, am I wasting my money?

zooming993

Anyone?

lopro

I have not done this but I figure id take a look into what the tool looks like , a basic search brought this to the table.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...commended.html

sounds interesting. I wonder if someone has a tool on rental Like the tie rod pinning tool or if someone knows where to rent the correct tool

CalvinC4S

I preferred using a socket and hammer, even having the factory tool.

lopro

what size socket was that?

Ed Hughes

This is really a simple task, as long as you take your time, as was posted in your other thread. But, if you feel the need, give it a go, and try to sell it afterward. It seems like you could buy a few seals and practice, until you felt it was right, for a lot less than this?

jhg41977

http://www.handsontools.com/SIR-Tool...e_p_19107.html

Jim-c

Does the sir tool work on 996 ? 996 not listed on tool application

jhg41977

Not sure, anyone have a workshop manual to check which tool Porsche says to sell your first child for?

CalvinC4S

The tool isn't the magic answer. I have used it once and thought it was actually harder due to not being able to visually track the seal.

Strategic baby taps, any socket will work. Some taps will be on the edge others in the center. Think 200 taps rather then 10. If you damaged your new one, your hitting it way too hard.

Most people like to do it dry but I use a thin film of motor oil. I think it protects the ridges in the rubber as it goes in and I have never had one leak after.

I think every boxster and 996 on the planet needed new RMS in 99.

jhg41977

The only one I have done was while the engine was still in the car. I removed the transmission. I use a awl to punch a hole in the old one, set a hooked pick in the seal, grabbed the pick with vicegrips and pulled the seal out. There were no marks along the surface so I was good there. I lightly oiled (motor oil) the crank and the seal surface on the case. I used a piece of scrap wood to tap the new seal in, slowly around the perimiter of the seal. I guessed at the correct depth, just made sure it was even all the way around. That was at 64k miles. I dropped the engine at 90k and not a drop had leaked out.

After reading several recent posts about new seals leaking, I decided I was just lucky and went ahead and bought the tool for this time around.

Always buy two seals. This way if you screw one up, you have a backup. Keep the old one or put it on rl/pelican/ebay after. Its cheap insurance.