My car has the RUF adjustable suspension complete with front and rear sway bars. It doesn't have the adjustable ride and I find it a bit too stiff for my liking especially on roads that aren't particularly well kept. On long bride over passes it kinda hops or gets into a rhythm that isn't pleasant.

I have it at what i believe is 1" lower than ROW settings it sits pretty level if not a tiny bit nose down I can raise it if someone thinks it would help, but I can't stand the factory ride height.

Maybe there is a happy medium or I will sell this and get the PSS10's.

Anyone have any insight as to where I can get the ride height setup so I can enjoy driving this awesome vehicle again?

Denny N Dallas

 

Here's my Car
[IMG][/IMG]

 

Nice car.. love those wheels...

I'm not familiar with RUF suspension.. does it utilize RS uprights (or something to correct bump-steer when lowered) ?

My 2 cents:
If not using some correction for bump-steer, you don't want to go much lower than RS +10mm. A quick search here should show you what that is and how to measure (from the frame, not body) ..
Once you get that set, make sure you have a good corner balance and align (make sure you get a shop that has the tools for a 993 and knows how to set the rear kinematic toe).
Then you can start tinkering with the dials... I assume the shocks are single adjustable (one ****).... If so, that would be compression. Start at full soft (soft=fast) and work your way up until weird oscillations stat to occur.

Want to see bump-steer at its worst... take a look at about the 4:15 mark (pro driving, not me). With PCA rules being what they are, I'm running very low ride height with stock uprights. Even though I'm using pretty stiff springs to keep body roll to a minimum, its a handful over bumps when loaded ..

 

Isn't the Ruf suspension just revalved PSS9's? I would take it to RAC and see what they suggest.

 

Yes, re valved PSS-9, but Ruf also uses different springs. Its a very nice suspension, and I think the car may be set too low. RAC can help with this.

 

It appears as though I have 2+ Inches to continue down, but wouldn't that make the car Lower?
[IMG][/IMG]

Is the Sway Bar supposed to go under the control arm? Seems it's the lowest part of the Car Eeek!



Thanks, I may run it by RAC to see if they can help.

Denny

 

I raised my PSS9's. from below RS to RS+10 and it drives like a different car. Way more compliant on our shoddy roads. And that's still 40mm below US Stock height and 10mm below ROW sport height, so it still looks low.

If you have the stock uprights I'd definitely rec RS+10 for around here. If you have the RS Uprights you may be able to stay as low as you are and something else might be the problem. I rec RAC to, they have worked on my car including an alignment and it came back sweet. They used to be the US RUf dealer so they should be good at getting the most out of your setup.

If you are curious what your height is, here is a great link for measuring points. What works well is if you have a bolt a coupling nut that gives you a good range just lay it on the ground and work the nut up until it touches and voila.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ce-points.html

 

If the car is near RS height or lower the sway bar has to go under.

As many have stated, you need to measure car height correctly first. If you are near, at or below RS height you are going to have a lot of bump steer unless you get the RS wheel carrier. I cannot tell from the pics if you have the stock wheel carrier or the RS wheel carrier..maybe RUF made there own?

Sounds like RAC would a good start...have them measure the height and check the wheel carrier first. How many miles on the car and how many miles on the RUF suspension?

 

Sure about that?
My car is below 120mm, so lower than RS (125mm), the H&R sway bar is still above the control arm, works well ...
Might depend on the used stabilizer mountings (drop links)?!

 

I'm trying to raise it, and to do that it seems i should lengthen the shock spring by moving the spring perch up the shock shaft, but that tightens the coil spring. Wouldn't that make the car ride rougher?

D

 

I've had the car since new, RAC did the alignment 5 years ago when i put the Ruf Sus. on it and said it was a lil lower than they preferred ~ 120mm rear to the marking points and the car rode horribly rough. So I parked it int he garage and tried to forget about it. Fast Forward a few years, Brain Tumor issues out of the way and i want to drive it again. 34K on the Clock 800 on the Ruf Sus.

So I took out the rears and screwed down the spring perches about 1" . So they are about 2" from the top threads -I only had about an 1" to go up and 3" to go down so i thought going down was the thing to do to soften the spring rebound.

No ? Should I have gone up? It appears as though the spring will be compressed way too much and the rubber boot shaft protectors cramped and mashed together.

Thanks for all the help.

Denny

 

Interesting Holger. and it looks from your threads like you recently raised it?

dlinzy, I cannot begin to explain the mechanics of the PSS9's, and not sure if yours are based on the 9's but you loosen the lock ring and raise the helper spring, the car goes up and the ride gets softer. I had similar concerns. I don't know, but I *think* the the car floats on the upper spring and it doesn't compress but that the damper gets extended and that's where the softer ride comes from but maybe someone else will chip in on that.

 

The benefit to doing it yourself is you can experiment with the ride change multiple times and then take it in for a alignment/corner balance when you are done and happy with the ride.

The advantage to let a pro do it is they are more likely to get it at the right height quicker. i.e when you make an adjustment in height, you can't just wheel on and remeasure. The car has to settle, really be driven come back and remeasure. It's really time consuming and a labor of love. For those guys who have done it dozens of times, their hourly rate is going to be way more effective than ours, well at least mine! But then I still enjoyed doing mine - I guess I'm a little crazy that way

Congrats on kicking the tumor.

 

not really ....

learning by doing; the stabilizer mounts holder (??mounting devices?? getting lost in translation) where much to high, but trying to adjust cornerweights made it pretty clear that there was something wrong ...

of course you need free space so you can meddle with the springs (and adjust the corner weight); the sway bar needs only about 3 to 5mm space to the control arm.

 

I have the single spring, so the ride height and suspension settings aren't individually adjusted.

I love working on it myself and then will take it to RAC for an alignment.

I might try raising the sway bar mount so the ends are above the control arm, i don't like the way they dangle below and could contact fearless dead animals.

d