officemanager

So I have a very sexy Valentine Radar Detector install in my Tach [thanx to Robin for the DIY and to AKA Kustom for the workmanship]



but now I have a really stupid problem. The main unit is wired in over my rear view mirror in my Cabriolet but...
The suction cups for the Valentine's mounting case are right where the variable sized black dots at the top edge of my windscreen are and I can't get a good bond. I tried oil on the suction cups and they let go after an hour or two and then cleaned them and tried silicone which charmingly remains in two lovely circles over the dotted area but of course didn't stick to the Valentine's suction cups... [and PS what is that black border area anyway - antenna? since I thought about scraping it off and then thought better of it]

ANYWAY ANY HELP FOR IDIOTIC ME...

[PS I would have pictures of the offending spots if my digital camera weren't at Minolta]

STLPCA

The black area is sunblock for the open area between the visors. If the search function were working, I've got a detailed prior post re: your problem. Since it's not:

I instant glued a circle of 1500 grit sandpaper to the suction cup w/the grit side towards the windshield. Since the rear of the paper is visible through the cup (& I'm a bit ****), I sprayed it flat black. I used (clear) 3M HD double backed tape after cleaning the window area w/rubbing alcohol. The tape has held tight to the grit & to the windshield for years. I have a spare suction cup mount so this permanent mount is fine for me. A removable suction cup mount just will not hold in that location.

Temple

Likewise, I removed the suction cups and superglued a thin rectangular piece of black plastic across the suction cup mounting holes. I then mounted a piece of that heavy-duty velcro (not that hook n' loop fuzzy stuff, the stiff straight stuff with little ***** on the end -- its available at Radio Shack) to the black plastic strip. I put the other side of the velcro right along the bottom of that black stuff atop our windshields.

So . . . the detector, once in place, hangs just below the black stuff so it doesn't interfere with its sensitivity (although I think its still looking through the tinted portion of the windshield so its losing some sensitivity) and when I go to the track I can unplug the detector (its got the power cord hard wired and it just pokes out above the rear view mirror), slide it out and the holder stays in place.

Hope this makes sense.

officemanager

You gotta love this website...

It's just a whole bunch of fools with the exact same idiosyncratic nature I have [Which nature, PS, probably says a lot about why we fools do well enough to afford these vehicles and wasting hours nursing and talking about them]...


Anyway thanx for the DIY... And thanks for knowing that of course the back needed to be sprayed black...

And if you ever need any audio help with your Pcar feel free to email me anytime... purchase@detailgroup.com... I may not be able to tune a TT but I have done a good job with sound in 964's and 993's

Chris Wolf

David in LA

Someone also did an install using a metal strip screwed into the window frame adn mounting the V1 bracket onto the strip.

I was previously kicking around the idea of a stealth install of the unit by making a box and mounting it above the mirror...for a cab this would require relocating the interior light onto the bottom of the box. If someone could fabricate one of these I would think there's be a number of buyers here for one (hey, if you can sell bumper plugs for $30+ how much could you sell a radar detector stealth box for?!?)

Tech-Law

I've wanted to do that stealth box idea myself. I could get it fabricated out of fiberglass for a perfect fit and covered in factory leather - would there be an interest from others?

David in LA

Tech-law -

I would be interested. Heck I would even be interested in a rough shaped box without any covering that I could just trim to fit and cover it myself!

I've taken a look at that area and there is just enough space to mount a box between the visor mounts and also high enough to clear the rearview mirror. There may be more space in a coupe as there would not be the lock mechanism there, but I have not taken a look at a coupe. What I was thinking was to extend the box all the way forward against the windshield and create a black "cave" - the rear would be covered by plexiglass. If the inside of the box is finished in black or if it were stuffed with black cloth/insulation then the radar unit would be nearly invisible directly from the front and the rear, and have no obstruction between the sensor and the windshield.

Tech-Law

I think that would work David.

I also think it needs to be centered to create the impression of a factory piece. I've had police officers deliberately lean into the car and inspect that area for a detector or suction cup marks. If you've got either FORGET about talking your way out of it - especially if you don't have lots of cleavage and long eyelashes (anyone see Terminator 3?).

Let me see if I can come up with a rough sketch or something and run the idea past some other people. I'll keep you posted (pun intended).

officemanager

I'm buying...
Let me know and Tech Law... maybe AKA [since they have a good fibre shop - although not made obviously for high volume] would make em for a modest bean. I don't suppose you'd stroll over and ask Don and Ian?

David in LA

Tech-law

Definitely agree that the box needs to be centered...and in any case I think it would have to be in order to clear the sun visors. If the detector used is a V1 (which is what I was using to see if there was enough space) I think there is about 1/2"-3/4" space on either side so that would make for a pretty snug box.

Keep us posted!

JPL 993-C4S

I am up for the radar box... as long as it is cheaper than Tech Law's suggested alternative (fake cleavage and eyelashes) I am for it.

Tech-Law

I'll ask Don and Ian at AKA about trying to work something out.

Chris, I might just copy your install except with 2-ways instead of 3-ways. Still trying to decide if a 2-way with 8's in the front doors (Dynaudio System 260) would provide sufficient bottom end to do without the sub...

officemanager

Tech Law-

Your's is a coupe so I think so... But if I were you I'd email and then call Dr Z if possible in Cali and ask him that question... I think he has had some trouble getting the vibration down in his doors with that 8' Dyn in there. That shouldn't be an issue with AKA doing the work as I think they will insist on custom making the panel and then dynamat the door below... I think the main problem is Dr Z's installer kept the factory cardboard over the 8.
I'm in Bridgehampton but I'll be back in town next week [say Tuesday] if you want to hear my 7"s with and without the sub to get an idea.

Why not do the Focal subs in the rears and the 2 way 260's that would be sweet and in for a penny in for a pound...

And tell Don to hurry up and make my V1/light enclosure... what's takin' so f'n long... I put this post up 2 days ago...

Moose

Officemanager, Off topic question for you. I had seen some pictures you posted a while back on your Sub enclosure that sits in the rear seat. WHat speaker do you have in there (or the cubic feet of the box)? And does that box allow you to put the seat-back down (for security or to hauls stuff)? Thanks.

officemanager

To Moose and Tech Law

The seat back in my cabriolet is welded stationary by the factory [and I understand is a pain to remove...

I used a Focal 11" 117601db [commonly a 27s] which is discontinued but Elliot at Zaltron http://zalytron.com/ should have one. Focal spec'd it for me and the predicating criteria was that it went the lowest Hz of any of their drivers in the smallest enclosure. The enclosure is a .65 fiber filled sealed box. You can go as low as .35 plus excluding the magnet and driver poly fiber fill but .65 was optimal.

See pix at of sub fabrication and install at www.ocdny.com

Hope that helps... Also as I said above... give some thought, if you have a coupe, to Focals new 8" 21v2s subs installed in sealed boxes under the rear windows. I had though about putting them in the doors of my cab and doing away with the 'pockets' under the armrests...
Focal discouraged me with the following VERY illusitory, anecdotal email which also addresses the question about whether [PAY ATTENTION TECH LAW] with an 8" Dyn in the door you still need a sub woofer in a coupe... OR AT LEAST IN THE MIND OF THE HEAD OF FOCAL'S US DESIGN TEAM...

[FONT=times new roman]Back in the 1980’s I installed a 9 inch Morel woofer in the door of a then new 1985 Porsche 911 Turbo.
Morel is a very similar driver to the Dynaudio.
We could never make it sound correct because the low bass excited too many resonance in the door structure.
The window glass buzzed, door handle buzzed, door lock buzzed.
The solution was to remove the bass with an electronic crossover and use a separate subwoofer.

The Dynaudio 8 and Morel 9 are light weight enough that they will not damage your door hinges.
They are really designed to be a Bass/Midrange.
The Focal is designed to be a true subwoofer and is much heavier because the magnet is much larger and the voice coil is twice as long for lower and louder bass.

]To get the best possible subwoofer integration you need three things.
1. Remove all high frequency with a 24dB per octave electronic crossover.
Time delay so that it takes equal time for tweeter and subwoofer to reach your ear.
2. Time delay allows your brain to assign to the tweeter location, any high frequency (distortion, buzz, crossover leakage) that comes from the subwoofer location.
3. Remove all installation buzz and rattle – buzz and rattle occur at high frequencies that are easy for the ear to locate direction[/FONT