Jarg1

After removing the blower motor while replacing the deck struts, I realized that the engine looks much cleaner, and furthermore living in NorCal I don't really have much need for heat, particularly since I rarely drive the car in winter, plus I've started looking for relatively inexpensive ways to reduce weight. So looking over the options, it looks like Rennline and Fabspeed have carbon fiber ducts for around $265 and $325 respectively and that both require another $90 for the 964 shroud. Or I could put in one of the block off kits for $70-80. Are there any other options that Rennlisters would recommend, and will I miss the heater if I just go with the block off kit, which seems to be the highest value option?

Holger3.2

Block off shout be fine.

User 122821

Factory RS pipe is only ~$50 from Sunset which replaces the entire blower and plumbing.

samsnead

You will still have heat with the heater bypass pipe

jg291446

BTW, the rennline heater duct bypass is on promotion at AutoAtlanta for 225$. In NorCal you may not need heat, but the blower also help to cool to engine.

Holger3.2

Removed everything and blocked the openings with the stuff available at Rennline. I do mostly track only but had never issues with heat*, just let the engine run in idle to cool down if oil temp is above 100 deg Cel (210F) / 9 o'clock position.

* in summer here mostly > 40deg C, sometimes > 50deg Cel (104 / 122 F)

Vq-1

I would stay away from the carbon fiber bypass tubes. They are a PITA to fit correctly. Plus, you have bypass a relay that is associated with the heater blower. Good luck

hkspwrsche

Bypass relay?

Ed Hughes

I use heat for defrost on early morning drives, and San Diego is arguably a bit warmer than N Cal. A block-off is silly. I've also needed defrost at the track. Again, cool mornings and wet track days were such that the windscreen fogged up.

Holger3.2

Didn' know that, assumed its m/l like Dubai

Coleman

I've had the bypass, as well as the stock blower, in various configs.. There are certain benefits to each one. The car used to be in California, now it's in Maine, and I driving Maine during the winter, snows tires, skis, -10 etc.. There's not a huge benefit from the blower versus the pressure from the fan w/ bypass on the heating. I did notice a bit more pressure when you're using the defrost but there are fans of front and those really do work well.. I did install the circuit bypass as documented in a few threads and it still did throw a bunch of codes and with the bypass tube and circuit, the heating control ECU doesn't exactly work perfectly with the resistor circuit.. It seems like it's either on or off and loses its ability to sense temperature and adjust on the go. Then again my heating system could be screwed up, but these are just my observations.. I do have general heating codes thrown when I check sometimes... But on cold days, -20 etc. the difference between the blower and the bypass tube is negligible...

jg291446

There is a picture here of the bypass relay in order to avoid battery drain..

https://rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=625583

Jarg1

I checked AutoAtlanta but the web site shows the price as $265. http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-R...-PN-RM091.html

Jarg1

I couldn't find a reference anywhere to that price, which sounds like a real bargain if available.

hkspwrsche

Why does that need to be done? What drains the battery? I must be missing something on how the circuit works if someone could enlighten me.