Kristoffer

In my never-ending effort to upgrade the performance of my P-car I must always stay on top of the most important upgrades of all. MY BRAKES!!!

I have read many good things about Castrol SRF brake fluid. While it has the highest dry boiling temp by only 5 deg. .F over Motul (I still have super blue) it is light years ahead of everyone else when moisture is added. At 270 deg .C verse Motul’s 216 deg. That is a huge difference!! Living in S. Florida with what can feel like 125% humidity that sounds like a great idea.

Besides the cost, which is a small price to pay at the end of a 130 mph straight, has anyone had any negative experiences with it that I should consider before changing to it??

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Kristoffer:

FWIW,...I've used this stuff for many many years and thus far I've seen no drawbacks, aside from the hit on the wallet,....

Its still cheaper than getting to know your local bodyshop on a first-name basis.

Kristoffer

Thanks Steve,

Thats what I thought Yes it cost more but it is just extra insurance!!

Greg Fishman

Kristoffer,
Are you having problems now? I run ATE fluid and have not had any fade issues. I have Big Reds, Hawk Blue pads, and brake cooling ducts.

Kristoffer

Only if I get to agressive I have Carbotech Panter Plus pads with Super Blue. I hope to be upgrading to Big Reds this year & I will be adding cooling ducts next week .

Flying Finn

I had good results with good pads (Performance friction 97) and cooling ducts.

Last time at Sebring I had good brakes (pads & rotors were both new) with those and ATE fluid.

I'va always had huge broblems with brakes, they always faded, or boiled, never were good but with good pads & ducts last time felt good (and you saw I brake hard & late...).

I was also thinking of Castrol, especially here where we have high humidity but when you flush the fluid every time before you go to track, that shouldn't be a problem.
Just remember to bleed them in correct order and bleed them well.

I have to admit I'm also thinking big reds but now I might me good without them (and I can dumb money to elsewhere in my car...).
Plus my car is now lighter (2845 lbs with 1/3 tank of fuel) so my brakes have less work to do, even though Moroso will be most likely hot as it can be...
If I do have problems, I will have to give Gastrol a try.

Kristoffer

Flying Finn,

Do you change your fluid before every DE??

Flying Finn

Yep. I flush one bottle of ATE (only $10) before every DE.

So cheap & easy to do that I do it every time.

Kristoffer

Are you changing colors to make sure you have flushed all of the old fluid out?

Flying Finn

No, well actually now I am (from blue to gold).

Usually I flush one bottle and just take the most from right rear, then little less from left rear, little less right front etc. until the can is gone.

I don't know whether that will totally change the fluid but it's gotta be close. You should do at least that much since last time you got your brakes too hot (if the fluid boils, you get bubbles).

Do you have Motive power bleeder? (with that, flushing/changing) is really simple).

Kristoffer

No I don't Is That what you are using? I need to try that!!

I will be out of town for the rest of the week, so I need to deside if I'm going to change to the gold or just go all of the way to the Castrol!! But eithor way I'll be changing my fluid!!

George A

Greg,

What are your impressions of the Hawk Blues? I've got a friend that can get me a set at a good rate and was debating on trying them. He also recommended the HT10's, which were slightly more. I’ve heard that the Hawk Blues dust pretty bad and can stain your wheels. Any comments?

I'm about to rebuild my front calipers, change rotors and flush with SRF (got 2 dented cans for $38 each, couldn't resist).

George

Greg Fishman

I like the Hawk Blues but may try the HT10's. A friend that is a Hawk Dealer suggested I try those as they have a different feel. The HB's were a lot better than the Pagid orange IMO. The HB's do dust a lot but no more than any Pagid Pad I have tried. The problem is that the dust from the HB's is fairly corrosive and you need to get it off your car and wheels asap.

Why do you need to rebuild your calipers? Are they leaking?

George A

Ok, not a full rebuild, just replacing the dust covers (mine are torn).

That's interesting that you like the HB better than the PO's. My friend (also a dealer) can get me a set (front and rear) for about $80~$90 less than the PO's. I'll give tham a try.

George

Flying Finn

Kristoffer,

Yes, that's what I'm using.

You can bleed/flush the brakes by yourself and takes only about an hour or so (including jacking & changing the tyres) to do that.

Defenately the way to go.