I just had my first drive on a 993 today (95 manual, 11x,xxx miles). Asking price is around $25K, which is pretty low in the area I live. The car actually drove pretty well, but since it has duct tape inside the engine department, I figure it will probably cost a lot to fix.

I have been looking at 3.2 carreras with G50 transmission, but for comfort and safety (I have 9 and 5 year old kids), I will probably end up getting a 993.

I have a few newbie questions:

1. I see very few 993s, even high mileage ones (over 100k), with an engine rebuild. In contrast, most high mileage 3.2 carreras have had a rebuild. What's the reason for this? Is 100k miles considered 'young' for the 993 engine, or is it because the rebuild cost is prohibitive?

2. The dealer claims they just replaced the clutch. Is this a good sign or a bad sign? It seems to me that the previous owner probably drove the car to an undriveable state and dumped it, so the car probably wasn't treated well.

3. The clutch pick up is very high. I don't feel any engagement until the clutch is almost completely out. Is this normal, or a poor clutch job?

4. When the car is stationary and I rev the engine, the oil pressure gauge moves downward. Is this normal?

5. I saw fresh liquid stain under the front wheels of the car. The dealer claimed it's from a different car (and taught me that the 993 has an engine at the back). The liquid is brown/black-ish. What could it be?

6. If my hypothetical budget is $40K, should I spend $23k or so buying a car in poor shape, and spend $17k to fix it? (I know good local independent shops that I trust)

7. Or should I buy a $35k, lower mileage one that requires no immediate fixing, and use the rest for cosmetic stuff? I want a car that looks/smells new, so is $5k sufficient for a good respray and re-upholstery?

I am mechanically inept and do not plan to work on the car myself.

Thanks a lot!

 

Welcome,

I 'll let others chime in, but higher mileage cars can sometimes be a good deal. A good PPI will let you create a spread sheet and see what it needs. Some swear that 100k needs a top end,whereas there is one on the board,that has 300k and no top end.
The leaks from the from could be a bad break line,or a leaking power steering pump.

You are not going to get a respray and interior for 5K....or if you do,it might actually detract from the car.

Emerald

 

Do research here, and get a PPI at the best available shop in the car's locale. If that's SoCal, get the car to Callas in Torrance if you're willing to gamble $1k. Otherwise, considering your budget,,,, at that mileage (and my perspective is having 40k (140k total) miles on a 993,) I'd give it a pass.

 

If your budget is higher, I'd go with a well maintained 993. Unless you do a good PPI and make sure this one does not need too much investment. Repairs and mods can be expensive so it would be better to own a well maintained one or make sure this one pass the PPI IMO.

IMO no top end needed if there's no puff of smoke at engine start or high oil consumption. Good thing if clutch is new. And what about the shocks?

The duct tape may be only for the fan shroud, which is a common problem.

Good luck!

 

The duct tape is here. Is this the fan shroud?



How much would it cost to replace? It seems such an innocent plastic part. I just wonder why the dealer won't replace it, but they claim to have spent $3600 on replacing the clutch ...

BTW, why does the engine look very different than another 95 that I saw on ebay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...#ht_500wt_1182

 

That piece cost $50-60. It's thin rubber and is prone to getting holes right where the duct tape is on the car you're looking at. My car had the same duct tape when I purchased it. I paid for the part and my local shop replaced it for free when they were aligning my car. Always a little concerning to see duct tape in a porsche engine but that is nothing to worry about.

 

I agree with the posts above, the most important thing you can do is set up a Pre Purchase Inspection at an independent Porsche shop close by to the dealer. You'll get an unbiased opinion on the condition and a shortlist (or long) of the items requiring attention. Don't be afraid of higher mileage cars. There are a lot of owners on this board enjoying 100K+ mile 993s.

With $35K you should have a lot of options of well sorted, narrow body 993s!

Interesting question about the non-variorram motors..The difference I can see is the heater box ~ looks like an older 964 unit. Perhaps the car on ebay had a replacement M64/05 motor put in?

Also, get your hands on a copy of "Porsche 993, The Essential Companion" by Adrian Streather. Awesome book to get familiar with the cars while shopping.

Good luck!

 

Judging from your remark "I want a car that looks/smells new" I'd agree with others do not a buy a cheap 993 with the intent to restore it. If your not a DIY guy, this is going to cost you a lot of $ and typically it's always over budget when re-storing mechanically and cosmetically. The pricing for 993 parts are going up! The old saying is buy the best 993 you can afford and go from there.

The clutch engagement you feel and oil pressure reading is def not right.

$5K for a re-spray and re-upholstery is far from the average cost, esp if your looking at a quality job. For example, you could easily spend $5K just for a front end re-spray + simple windshield replacement as reference.

Good luck with your search.

 

FWIW - That engine bay looks exactly like my 95 (without the duct tape) - heater box and all.

 

As others have said this is not normal. Are you sure you are referring to the oil pressure gage and not the oil LEVEL gage? Level gage needle will drop on engine rev.

Good luck with your decision

 

Sorry I wasn't sure what the gauge was measuring, so I thought it was "pressure" :-) Anyway, it's the one on the right with the 5 4 3 2 1 0 marking.

 

Run.

 

Just joking. Make sure you know what you are getting into. As Knight says, it always costs more to fix something than buying it fixed. If you do not DIY, then get the best car you can afford, otherwise you will be paying to have your mechanics children put through university.

1- I see very few 993s, even high mileage ones (over 100k), with an engine rebuild. In contrast, most high mileage 3.2 carreras have had a rebuild. What's the reason for this? Is 100k miles considered 'young' for the 993 engine, or is it because the rebuild cost is prohibitive? Bottom ends are very strong and can go 200-300K mies. Valve guides are the most likely internal wear item, that would mean heads off, so $4K to $8K depending.

2. The dealer claims they just replaced the clutch. Is this a good sign or a bad sign? It seems to me that the previous owner probably drove the car to an undriveable state and dumped it, so the car probably wasn't treated well. that is good, see the bills to confirm.

3. The clutch pick up is very high. I don't feel any engagement until the clutch is almost completely out. Is this normal, or a poor clutch job? SHould be towards the bottom, top indicates a possible worn clutch.

4. When the car is stationary and I rev the engine, the oil pressure gauge moves downward. Is this normal? NO.

5. I saw fresh liquid stain under the front wheels of the car. The dealer claimed it's from a different car (and taught me that the 993 has an engine at the back). The liquid is brown/black-ish. What could it be? Steering Rack - common and expensive. $2K.

6. If my hypothetical budget is $40K, should I spend $23k or so buying a car in poor shape, and spend $17k to fix it? (I know good local independent shops that I trust) Nope, but the best car you can afford.

7. Or should I buy a $35k, lower mileage one that requires no immediate fixing, and use the rest for cosmetic stuff? I want a car that looks/smells new, so is $5k sufficient for a good respray and re-upholstery? With $5K, you might manage to have the seats recovered, but that is about it. A good respray, depending on which part of the world you are in, can easily get to $15K or more. You can wrap it.

I am mechanically inept and do not plan to work on the car myself. Too bad, that can save you thousands....


Cheers,

Mike

 

You are in fact referring to the PRESSURE gage and the needle should not go down when you rev the engine.

 

there are better options, especially if you don't diy.

get a car in better condition.