RichPugh

Long story short...

KW shows V1's available for the C2 but not for the C4/C4s/Turbo's. Only V3's.

I never understood why since other brand coilovers were very much cross compatible between all 993 models but not the KW V1's. I didn't know enough about the potential suspension differences that did or did not exist to understand why the V1's weren't avail for my C4. There are 1-2 web stores out there that show a V1 option for ALL 993 models but everything else shows V1's only avail for 2WD cars and only the V3's were avail for the AWD cars (V3's fit all cars).

I called KW North America (spoke to Brian I believe?) and asked about the specs. He was curious too so he compared a build sheet between the V1's for A standard 2WD Carrera and the V3's for a Carrera 4. He verified the V1's and V3's use the exact same shock/strut bodies and the exact same springs/hats/perches/mount parts, etc.. Oddly, the V3's call for 2 front bumpstops but that's the only physical difference besides obvious valving and any mounts that may/may not come with certain other kits.

So, I opted for the V1's. They fit just fine and for a car that will probably see a track day event 1-2 times a year, I'd say it's a good option in the sub $2400 price range.

...They work. If you want KW's but didnt wanna spend the money on the Clubsports or V3's, you can buy the V1's even though the application chart doesnt show them being an option.

-Rich

stace

Thanks for passing the info along. Good to know!!!

BLT4SPD

Thanks for the info, VERY good know.

....and with that mystery solved, here's one that has been bugging me: H&R lists their coil-over kits for 2wd and AWD cars as being the same part number. HOWEVER, they list a different part number for the Turbo. Why? What is different (suspension wise) from, say, a C4S to a Turbo?

Dan Snyder

Put the v1 s on about two weeks ago. At first seemed a little firm. Suspect that the stock suspension was more tired than I thought after 60 K miles. Love the v1 s now. Maybe I just needed to retrain my keister.

fatmike

Dan/Rich - If you get a moment, can you please post a picture of your ride height? Did you lower the car? Anything else you can share about the V1's?

Thanks.


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RichPugh

I will be putting my wheels back on tomorrow morning and dialling in the height... then taking it to get an alignment before Wednesday. I am going LOW. Like at LEAST RS height... probably lower, rolling the fenders some. I plan on doing the RS uprights and tie rods over/after winter. I'll take pics with the 17" color matched twists that came with the car and then hopefully will have some 18" Techart Champions (OZ Mito Modulars) on the way for some temporary wheels and winter projects, and then ultimately I want to build a custom set of Fifteen52 18" wheels. Either 2pc Forged Tarmacs or perhaps a 3pc set... decisions, decisions...

RichPugh

The front might need up a hair or the rear down a hair... just to mellow out the rake. This pic was after I took it around the block once just to let it settle in. This is 18 threads (below the perch ring) up front and 14 in rear. I will probably raise the front 3-4 threads.

RichPugh

Pchop time Who needs brakes!?

Mike J

I found the V3's factory recommended height range to only allow about a RS+10 height - you can dial it down below that, but it's not within the recommended working range of the shock. Is that the same on the V1? Your car looks close to RS height.

Cheers,

Mike

RichPugh

The V1's use the same shock/strut bodies as V3's so I assume the piston length is the same/similar, i.e., the range of operation is similar. They are MUCH shorter than stock and there seems to be much more range to go lower... Obviously, I'm not saying the threaded perch range dictates the safe/ideal/smart/specified lowering capabilities but if I raised the rear much more, I'd be preloading the rear 515lb springs as the tender springs were almost completely collapsed. The fronts were about 18 full thread teeth up from the bottom so I may raise it to 22-24 threads. I havent measured from the proper points to check actual height. If I had RS uprights and tierods, I'd probably stay this low. I believe the steering rod angle and suspension arms dictates more than the working range of the shock. I'm sure the shock is fine where it is.

Mike J

I think the tender springs on the KW's are pretty soft and are normally collapsed or close to that. Last two cars I have seen on the lift with those are compressed when on the ground.

I do not know the internals of the shocks, I can only go by the installation instructions supplied by the manufacturer. When I installed them (on a Turbo which is heavier) I am at the lowest point possible on the rears and still be within the installation specs. I am above RS height. I think the working range of the shock is dictated by the piston position in the barrel, which is dictated by things like working oil volumes, proximity to valving, etc. The working range is in the documentation from KW. Steering rod angles, suspension arms have nothing to do with the optimal working range of the shock - it's the internal design of the shock that dictates that.

There are tolerances though - so it's likely it's safe to operate out of that range, for instance dialling down the perches that move the piston lower into the shock certainly works (and I have seen this on other cars with KWs), but I do not know if that impacts the operational impacts of the shocks, nor the longevity.

I have written an email to KW asking them why they supply a shock with a relatively low recommend ride range. No answer yet.. :-)

Cheers,

Mike