Knight

If you have original glass and literally do not drive in the rain, you are most likely to never have the rust issue or def on the lower percentile. Remember these cars are technically galvanized from factory. I have also seen numerous cars here without any rust issues, that drive in the rain, regular washes etc, so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

As opposed to lifting up the seals, after a wash if the car is out in the sun/heat for few hours the water will dry out too.

Paolo1

I appreciate this feedback. Does anyone run a dehumidifier in their garage? Is it possible to make a climate too dry by dehumidification? I realize I am now talking extreme precaution, but I would like to define an ideal approach and then my actual risk adjusted approach. Watching that guy on Drive Clean makes me believe there is never a detail too unimportant. For my DD, I don't worry at all. For the C2S, I want to think it through.

Paolo1

Knight, do you realize you are one post away from 993. Ha

uicnick

Absolutely not. My windshield was the original untouched windshield. Porsche issued a TSB in which they changed the way they glue the windshield in by filling the gap between the aperture and the window frame. If you are absolutely sure that you don't have rust under there, i'd do the procedure in the TSB. Iif you are REALLY confident in your body guy, you might have him pull the glass and do a full repair, but unless you're confident, it's not worth the risk of messing with the original glass placement, in my opinion. If there is rust underneath, you have no choice but to pull the glass out.

pegdrag

Raising this old thread from the dead....finally got the car into the shop to get the front rust addressed, small sized rust bubble, ugh:

six gun

Here is a couple shots of y repair, same area.

user 723923490

After reading this old thread I went out to the garage and pulled up the corners of the front and rear glass seals. There was so much water in there I was expecting to see lily pads growing. I did not see any rust but when it dries completely I will clean things out and do a more extensive investigation. There is a bit of squeaking coming from the cowl area but it is not terrible yet.
My question is this;
Besides the much discussed rope insertion, are there any other solutions out there?
Having some experience in boat building, my first impulse was a careful application of Sikaflex but I will be replacing the windscreen at some point. I don't want to make a mess of things.
Thanks
Allan

uniquenamehere

Check out this thread for a similar idea like you had:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ar-window.html

pp000830

Seems to me it is an easy DIY repair if there is no perforation of the metal or water leakage into the cabin is detected and the visual areas of corrosion showing out from under the surround molding are small in area. In fact if tried first it does not preclude the later more invasive body shop approach if required later.

First remove the outer rubber surround molding and clean the channel of debris this can be done with or without the glass left in place. I would use solvent to clean the channel/gutter and brush paint in the cavity with a zinc laden automotive primer in the areas showing corrosion then use most any topcoat that is compatible with it as it will be under the glass and finish molding and not visible.

If only a small area of corrosion has become visible at the edge of the molding I would remove the molding, clean the metal making sure I chip off any small areas where the existing top coat paint adhesion around edges is lost.

I would then use a "0" or "1" artists' brush to prime just the affected area being careful not to go outside of the failed paint. Then I would mix up some automotive compatible single stage paint to match, let it thicken a little and use it in layers to fill /trowel the area until it is just above flush with the unaffected paint.

Once everything is dry and hard, I would use 2000 grit wet sandpaper to bring the filled repair flush with the surrounding finish. Use car not to sand down the adjacent areas to any extent. The nice thing about this approach is it can be added to over and over until you are satisfied with the results. Once completely dry, take the car back to the glass shop and have them install the replacement glass. If the glass was not removed in the first place buy some urothane roofing sealant at the DIY store and fill the channel around the glass flush to the top with the sealant. This may require several passes for areas where the channel is wider. Since the channel is now full there is no opportunity for future moisture to sit in the bottom of it exposing the bottom to future corrosion.

I did somthing like this on the back glass of my car and it worked out very well.

Andy

pp000830

withdrawn, old thread