fuch

Guys in the uk this is a very common problem & the screens I have re,done the only way to stop water getting in to the corners at the bottom is to seal the cavity like Bruce7 has posted as it sits in the lower corners and the water has no where to go but makes it a bitch when you need the next screen...the outer seal is more of a finisher rather than a seal and is not water tight and just sits against the screen frame rather than bonds to it...a 996 has a very similar trim design but at the bottom the water just drains out down the A post so no rust as its drains away!!

As bill says a 964 screen/ rubber will work as long as you seal rubber to body when you install it.

A drain hole/ tubes at the lowest point on each corner so the water could drain out might be a idea if you could fab that in the scuttle!!

shellback

well, I discovered I have the same problem
She hasn't been driven since a week ago and got caught in a small rain shower.
Today I removed the seal and its still wet!!!

pegdrag

Serves me right for reading this dang thread. I went out to the garage and had a look and damned if I don't have a rust bubble on the drivers side side at the corner.

It is about the size of a nickel and I'd swear it wasn't there a month ago.

Is this something I'd trust to a good body shop or is this really going to be specific enough that I need to find someone who has done this several times?

There are a TON of threads and lots of conflicting advice.

berni29

Hi

When I had mine done I squirted Valvoline Tectyl ML under the rubbers. The stuff runs like water and cures waxy so I reasoned that it will keep the water away from the paint.

Berni

Knight

Any decent body shop should be able to handle this job, typically requires rust preventative acid treatment (soak into the metal), proper prep, paint, cure etc. Be aware once they remove the windshield there may be more rust under there. This was the case with my windshield, having a poor install done like 5+ years ago by previous owner.

The bigger challenge is finding someone who can remove and re-install the windshield without creating additional damage. An improperly installed windshield can also lead to creaks etc.

Kiwi Carguy

Generally speaking any competent body shop should be able to do the rust repairs properly. The actually more difficult part is the removal and re-install of the glass front and rear and sides if you go that far.

My car was a complete glass out, full respray. The painters inspected the rear windscreen channel and it looked fine and chose not to disturb it and leave it in place. This in hindsight was a mistake. While blowing the car down with compressed air to get ready to spray the air lifted a bit of paint to reveal rust around the rear channel as well. My advice is if you have rust in the front you will likely have it in the rear and some have had it in the side window apertures as well.

The other thing to consider is the heater element wiring in the glass. If this is done incorrectly it can result in an electrical short and the rear window shattering. I printed of a whole thread about the correct removal and installation procedure for my painter to read and follow.

The other obvious issue if the rust is repaired, windows put back in etc is that it doesn't squeak etc.

Kiwi Carguy

Rear window aperture.

Kiwi Carguy

more pics

Kiwi Carguy

Painted

justin993

Nice work kiwi carguy

Kiwi Carguy

Another pic from today. Sitting idle waiting for parts from the good guys at Fister D

RichPugh

I bought my car in upstate New York and found out it was a daily driver car from VERMONT... lol.

I have some rust and bubbling on the rear glass in the drivers side lower corner and a few tiny bubbles extending towards the passenger side along the glass edge on the frame. I spoke to Gunter Collision (they are a local Porsche specialist bodyshop) and he quoted between $800-1200 for the repair... Said it was a common issue so that made me feel better about it. I'm gonna give it to them after the fall... kinda like eating Oreo's before going to the dentist

Paolo1

This is a highly informative and disturbing thread. I have lived in blissful ignorance of this issue for years. My 993 does not go in the rain, but I do wash it of course. Mine is original glass (I believe!) and I would like to be able to get ahead of this. Apologies if this question is remedial, but I'm not sure I am following what the proper washing and drying protocol should be given this design flaw. Should we pull out/ lift up the seals each time we wash and blast with air or blot dry? Would this lifting make bigger gaps into which water would flow? Thank you very much for framing your feedback as if I were an idiot child in need of guidance.

GT9111

Windshield cancer is also common to 964. Cancer recurrence is not uncommon. My 964 just recently had a relapse after 10 years.

GT9111

I do not advice lifting the seals and blasting air into it as it may push water deeper into crevasses that were previously not susceptible to moisture.