Help! - Car not accelerating or idling well after temp at replacing sparks and wir
08-24-2013, 07:15 PM
#31
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Hi
I did my leads and plugs a while back and on the initial test the car did not run smooth so I checked all the leads and noticed I had swapped two around.
Tripple check that all leads are in the correct position and seated properly.
I did my leads and plugs a while back and on the initial test the car did not run smooth so I checked all the leads and noticed I had swapped two around.
Tripple check that all leads are in the correct position and seated properly.
08-24-2013, 07:51 PM
#32
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i feel like ive checked the spark plugs atleast 10 times. I think im going to redo the install tomorrow, maybe ill see something i missed. I've almost given up.
08-24-2013, 10:44 PM
#34
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Sounds like you have the correct wires going to the correct plugs. Tomorrow check again during your redo to make sure the other ends of the wires are plugged in the correct slots on the distributors. Your oriention on the distributors may be off slightly CW or CCW, if you know what I mean.
08-24-2013, 10:46 PM
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Remove one coil wire and start engine.
Shutoff engine, replace first wire and remove other coil wire. then restart. See if car runs the same. If not, something has been wired wrong at one distributor. If both are the same, then something else must be going on. Did you do replace caps/rotors?
Shutoff engine, replace first wire and remove other coil wire. then restart. See if car runs the same. If not, something has been wired wrong at one distributor. If both are the same, then something else must be going on. Did you do replace caps/rotors?
08-24-2013, 10:51 PM
#36
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Also, the rubber thing they talk about cutting off comes on the new Beru wires I believe. I think they are talking about the rubber plug that goes through the engine tin to protect the wires from chafing on the tin. I just did my plugs and wires today and all of the dividers and rubber grommets were pre-installed on the Beru wire set
08-24-2013, 11:29 PM
#37
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Remove one coil wire and start engine.
Shutoff engine, replace first wire and remove other coil wire. then restart. See if car runs the same. If not, something has been wired wrong at one distributor. If both are the same, then something else must be going on. Did you do replace caps/rotors?
Shutoff engine, replace first wire and remove other coil wire. then restart. See if car runs the same. If not, something has been wired wrong at one distributor. If both are the same, then something else must be going on. Did you do replace caps/rotors?
And oh that makes sense with the rubber piece. I understand now. And your lucky your car turned back on lol.
08-24-2013, 11:40 PM
#38
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Sounds like you have the correct wires going to the correct plugs. Tomorrow check again during your redo to make sure the other ends of the wires are plugged in the correct slots on the distributors. Your oriention on the distributors may be off slightly CW or CCW, if you know what I mean.
Also my caps and rotors are about 3 months old. so they are fairly new.
08-26-2013, 02:52 PM
#39
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Sorry missed this thread.
I need more data. When you say "won't accelerate" you mean its powerless but smooth, or it's missing and does not pull, or the engine is balking and jerks.
You have to carefully look at what you changed or moved/disturbed in order to diagnose the problem.
It sure sounds like you have the firing order wrong on perhaps one piston. Just to confirm, you found TDC on the main pulley and fan case, and then confirmed that the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire on both distributors? (Note: if this does not work and the rotor is 180 degrees out, rotate the engine over clockwise a full turn until the TCD mark is aligned again, you are on the other side of the cycle).
Once that is confirmed and you know which post is #1 on the cap and it definitely is connected to the correct #1 spark plugs on the upper and lower banks, then move to the next post clockwise on both distributors. That is the next spark position, which is #6. Confirm end to end that the right wire is running from the cap to the plug (and no twists in the spark plug wires are hidden under the manifold for instance) and going to #6 on both the top and bottom plugs. Rotate clockwise again, and do the confirmation for 2.
I looked over the pictures, the wires look to be on the correct posts from what I can see, but your wire routing is not very tidy. This should not impact the running of the car, but you have some lines overlapping others in the wrong order. Given the lines are all numbered, its hard to go wrong though.
The characteristic of a single swap of two spark plugs (say bottom 1-2 is now 2-1) may not show up in the idle, but can be felt as a misfire or lack of power at higher rpm. This is why I am asking about what exactly does it feel like. Does it pull at all, or is just weaker?
It could be a vacuum leak, but the small ones (like the one that feeds the actuator on the heater fan) is inconsequential - the car will accelerate fine with that unplugged.
I think you have this towed to a shop now anyways?
Cheers,
Mike
I need more data. When you say "won't accelerate" you mean its powerless but smooth, or it's missing and does not pull, or the engine is balking and jerks.
You have to carefully look at what you changed or moved/disturbed in order to diagnose the problem.
It sure sounds like you have the firing order wrong on perhaps one piston. Just to confirm, you found TDC on the main pulley and fan case, and then confirmed that the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire on both distributors? (Note: if this does not work and the rotor is 180 degrees out, rotate the engine over clockwise a full turn until the TCD mark is aligned again, you are on the other side of the cycle).
Once that is confirmed and you know which post is #1 on the cap and it definitely is connected to the correct #1 spark plugs on the upper and lower banks, then move to the next post clockwise on both distributors. That is the next spark position, which is #6. Confirm end to end that the right wire is running from the cap to the plug (and no twists in the spark plug wires are hidden under the manifold for instance) and going to #6 on both the top and bottom plugs. Rotate clockwise again, and do the confirmation for 2.
I looked over the pictures, the wires look to be on the correct posts from what I can see, but your wire routing is not very tidy. This should not impact the running of the car, but you have some lines overlapping others in the wrong order. Given the lines are all numbered, its hard to go wrong though.
The characteristic of a single swap of two spark plugs (say bottom 1-2 is now 2-1) may not show up in the idle, but can be felt as a misfire or lack of power at higher rpm. This is why I am asking about what exactly does it feel like. Does it pull at all, or is just weaker?
It could be a vacuum leak, but the small ones (like the one that feeds the actuator on the heater fan) is inconsequential - the car will accelerate fine with that unplugged.
I think you have this towed to a shop now anyways?
Cheers,
Mike
08-26-2013, 04:45 PM
#40
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Sorry missed this thread.
I need more data. When you say "won't accelerate" you mean its powerless but smooth, or it's missing and does not pull, or the engine is balking and jerks.
You have to carefully look at what you changed or moved/disturbed in order to diagnose the problem.
It sure sounds like you have the firing order wrong on perhaps one piston. Just to confirm, you found TDC on the main pulley and fan case, and then confirmed that the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire on both distributors? (Note: if this does not work and the rotor is 180 degrees out, rotate the engine over clockwise a full turn until the TCD mark is aligned again, you are on the other side of the cycle).
Once that is confirmed and you know which post is #1 on the cap and it definitely is connected to the correct #1 spark plugs on the upper and lower banks, then move to the next post clockwise on both distributors. That is the next spark position, which is #6. Confirm end to end that the right wire is running from the cap to the plug (and no twists in the spark plug wires are hidden under the manifold for instance) and going to #6 on both the top and bottom plugs. Rotate clockwise again, and do the confirmation for 2.
I looked over the pictures, the wires look to be on the correct posts from what I can see, but your wire routing is not very tidy. This should not impact the running of the car, but you have some lines overlapping others in the wrong order. Given the lines are all numbered, its hard to go wrong though.
The characteristic of a single swap of two spark plugs (say bottom 1-2 is now 2-1) may not show up in the idle, but can be felt as a misfire or lack of power at higher rpm. This is why I am asking about what exactly does it feel like. Does it pull at all, or is just weaker?
It could be a vacuum leak, but the small ones (like the one that feeds the actuator on the heater fan) is inconsequential - the car will accelerate fine with that unplugged.
I think you have this towed to a shop now anyways?
Cheers,
Mike
I need more data. When you say "won't accelerate" you mean its powerless but smooth, or it's missing and does not pull, or the engine is balking and jerks.
You have to carefully look at what you changed or moved/disturbed in order to diagnose the problem.
It sure sounds like you have the firing order wrong on perhaps one piston. Just to confirm, you found TDC on the main pulley and fan case, and then confirmed that the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire on both distributors? (Note: if this does not work and the rotor is 180 degrees out, rotate the engine over clockwise a full turn until the TCD mark is aligned again, you are on the other side of the cycle).
Once that is confirmed and you know which post is #1 on the cap and it definitely is connected to the correct #1 spark plugs on the upper and lower banks, then move to the next post clockwise on both distributors. That is the next spark position, which is #6. Confirm end to end that the right wire is running from the cap to the plug (and no twists in the spark plug wires are hidden under the manifold for instance) and going to #6 on both the top and bottom plugs. Rotate clockwise again, and do the confirmation for 2.
I looked over the pictures, the wires look to be on the correct posts from what I can see, but your wire routing is not very tidy. This should not impact the running of the car, but you have some lines overlapping others in the wrong order. Given the lines are all numbered, its hard to go wrong though.
The characteristic of a single swap of two spark plugs (say bottom 1-2 is now 2-1) may not show up in the idle, but can be felt as a misfire or lack of power at higher rpm. This is why I am asking about what exactly does it feel like. Does it pull at all, or is just weaker?
It could be a vacuum leak, but the small ones (like the one that feeds the actuator on the heater fan) is inconsequential - the car will accelerate fine with that unplugged.
I think you have this towed to a shop now anyways?
Cheers,
Mike
08-26-2013, 04:45 PM
#41
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Ya, but I was visiting Orlando for the weekend.
WOW, it took them 45 min and 140 dollars later they found the problem.
After doing the tune up, I put the
MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR Tube in backwards
I'm glad it's back on the road!!
WOW, it took them 45 min and 140 dollars later they found the problem.
After doing the tune up, I put the
MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR Tube in backwards
I'm glad it's back on the road!!
08-26-2013, 04:52 PM
#42
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Ok, so that goes back to my comment, review everything you changed, took off, or modified.
Great that you found that - not sure why you took that off though. Needed room?
Cheers,
Mike
Great that you found that - not sure why you took that off though. Needed room?
Cheers,
Mike
08-26-2013, 05:00 PM
#43
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Ya when I replaced the fuel filter a while ago. My first DIY. I know now it isn't necessary.
This time i noticed it was loose so I took it out. I'm just glad the problem wasnt worse!!
This time i noticed it was loose so I took it out. I'm just glad the problem wasnt worse!!
08-27-2013, 09:28 AM
#44
Race Car
Glad you got it back on the road.
