Removing Carpet Glue
08-05-2013, 11:10 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
RL:
I am currently in the middle of taking the carpet out of my 993.
My only issue is the carpet glue, aka gorilla snot. Anyone here have any easy solutions?
Over in the VW forums people have suggested using a modified drill bit and drill to twist it all together. It works but I run the risk of scratching the paint on the floor.
I have made a wad of the gorilla snot and then used it to gather more. This works but is very time consuming.
Ideas?
-/Michael
I am currently in the middle of taking the carpet out of my 993.
My only issue is the carpet glue, aka gorilla snot. Anyone here have any easy solutions?
Over in the VW forums people have suggested using a modified drill bit and drill to twist it all together. It works but I run the risk of scratching the paint on the floor.
I have made a wad of the gorilla snot and then used it to gather more. This works but is very time consuming.
Ideas?
-/Michael
08-05-2013, 01:39 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I knew this would suck but I did it anyway. I can't complain too much.
--Michael
08-05-2013, 01:45 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
If you are willing to wear gloves, a respirator and have WELL VENTILATED garage you can use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). I would soak rags in MEK and let them sit on the floor for ten or fifteen minutes to soften the glue. At that point the glue should come up easily with a plastic scraper.
08-05-2013, 01:47 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If you are willing to wear gloves, a respirator and have WELL VENTILATED garage you can use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). I would soak rags in MEK and let them sit on the floor for ten or fifteen minutes to soften the glue. At that point the glue should come up easily with a plastic scraper.
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08-05-2013, 02:54 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
When I did the interior on my 964 race car I tried everything.
I found that mineral spirits worked the best, most solvents evaporate too fast to be effective.
I would start with a heat gun and plastic scrapers.
Something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-95832.html
Then soak rags with the mineral spirits and let them sit to soften the remaining glue.
Mineral spirits leave an oily residue, so I cleaned everything up afterwards with Xylene.
Definitely use hd rubber gloves and respirator.
There is no getting around that it is a sucky,time consuming job.
I found that mineral spirits worked the best, most solvents evaporate too fast to be effective.
I would start with a heat gun and plastic scrapers.
Something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-95832.html
Then soak rags with the mineral spirits and let them sit to soften the remaining glue.
Mineral spirits leave an oily residue, so I cleaned everything up afterwards with Xylene.
Definitely use hd rubber gloves and respirator.
There is no getting around that it is a sucky,time consuming job.
08-05-2013, 03:52 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
When I did the interior on my 964 race car I tried everything.
I found that mineral spirits worked the best, most solvents evaporate too fast to be effective.
I would start with a heat gun and plastic scrapers.
Something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-95832.html
Then soak rags with the mineral spirits and let them sit to soften the remaining glue.
Mineral spirits leave an oily residue, so I cleaned everything up afterwards with Xylene.
Definitely use hd rubber gloves and respirator.
There is no getting around that it is a sucky,time consuming job.
I found that mineral spirits worked the best, most solvents evaporate too fast to be effective.
I would start with a heat gun and plastic scrapers.
Something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-95832.html
Then soak rags with the mineral spirits and let them sit to soften the remaining glue.
Mineral spirits leave an oily residue, so I cleaned everything up afterwards with Xylene.
Definitely use hd rubber gloves and respirator.
There is no getting around that it is a sucky,time consuming job.
Did you weld the sunroof in? I am very curious.
--Michael
08-05-2013, 06:04 PM
#10
Drifting
We recently tore down a 97' E36 for a Chump car build. We had all tools and methods in mind. What worked the best was dry ice. It was absolutly amazing how easy it was. It took 3 ppl less than 90 min to remove carpet, glue, sound detening etc. once we pulled the carpet out we took the dry ice and broke it down w/ a hammer lightly tapping it so that it was nearly a power. Once that was spread across the floor and sat on the adhesive etc for 5-10 minutes you could hit it with a hammer and it shattered!
08-05-2013, 06:05 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
I removed the sunroof substructure. Had the cage fabricator weld in the sunroof. It was welded so that I did not have to repaint the roof and sunroof.
I got a little heat distortion on the roof paint from one of the welds at the front, but it is very minor. There is a gap around the sunroof just like it is stock. Most people just fill the gap with silicone, and it does not look that different than the stock sunroof seal.
I got a little heat distortion on the roof paint from one of the welds at the front, but it is very minor. There is a gap around the sunroof just like it is stock. Most people just fill the gap with silicone, and it does not look that different than the stock sunroof seal.
08-05-2013, 06:13 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
We recently tore down a 97' E36 for a Chump car build. We had all tools and methods in mind. What worked the best was dry ice. It was absolutly amazing how easy it was. It took 3 ppl less than 90 min to remove carpet, glue, sound detening etc. once we pulled the carpet out we took the dry ice and broke it down w/ a hammer lightly tapping it so that it was nearly a power. Once that was spread across the floor and sat on the adhesive etc for 5-10 minutes you could hit it with a hammer and it shattered!
It is pretty ridiculous.
08-05-2013, 09:23 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
If you are willing to wear gloves, a respirator and have WELL VENTILATED garage you can use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). I would soak rags in MEK and let them sit on the floor for ten or fifteen minutes to soften the glue. At that point the glue should come up easily with a plastic scraper.
We recently tore down a 97' E36 for a Chump car build. We had all tools and methods in mind. What worked the best was dry ice. It was absolutly amazing how easy it was. It took 3 ppl less than 90 min to remove carpet, glue, sound detening etc. once we pulled the carpet out we took the dry ice and broke it down w/ a hammer lightly tapping it so that it was nearly a power. Once that was spread across the floor and sat on the adhesive etc for 5-10 minutes you could hit it with a hammer and it shattered!
08-06-2013, 09:46 AM
#14
Drifting
What gloves are you fellas using that the MEK doesn't attack? I have been putting off this task for months while I do other stuff on my build, but the time is coming soon. Ugh.
08-06-2013, 10:23 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Bought several different sets at Lowe's and, unfortunately, don't know which one actually worked and didn't dissolve. None of them seemed perfect based on the labels' usage guides, but one of them withstood the solvent.