Door Strap issue with video
#1
Racer
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Door Strap issue with video
In my porsche 993, i've had the dreaded door strap issue for a long time. I read all the other post about people having it welded or also replacing the door strap with another. It seems to depend on how severe the problem is. What do you guys think? Thank you!
#2
Rennlist Member
Nice vid, but the strap weld is cracked from behind. The answer(s) are the same: (1) a very neat weld is suffice as some will testify (2) secure way is to remove the front wing / fender and strengthen and weld from behind.
I am still nursing my passenger door too.
I am still nursing my passenger door too.
#3
RL Community Team
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Any body shop that works on 911 has seen and repaired this issue. It comes up on many 911 of various vintages. The forces are great on the strap mount so there is no way around a proper repair.
Some shops cut out a section of the A pillar and weld in new. Some shops go inside the existing and reinforce and weld things up. The quick fix to tack weld the pivot to the a pillar externally seems to fail quickly.
To eliminate the problem going forward or to ensure the passenger side door never has this the fix is to remove the strap from the door in a vice do some prying to get the rubber friction blocks out of the strap mechanism, trim the blocks so the stay produces less resistance and reassemble.
Andy
Some shops cut out a section of the A pillar and weld in new. Some shops go inside the existing and reinforce and weld things up. The quick fix to tack weld the pivot to the a pillar externally seems to fail quickly.
To eliminate the problem going forward or to ensure the passenger side door never has this the fix is to remove the strap from the door in a vice do some prying to get the rubber friction blocks out of the strap mechanism, trim the blocks so the stay produces less resistance and reassemble.
Andy
#4
Rennlist Member
That's not too bad, but indeed needs attention. I would follow the diy on pcars.com to mod the check strap assembly as mentioned above, then go to have it welded. The diy is very easy.
#5
There is no substitute for a proper repair. The spot weld was done by a PO on my 993 and it was a mess.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#7
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#8
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Similar to last post but I did mine with aluminum and epoxy, the drivers side I did over 4 years ago and seems fine still. Here's some pics in this post of the passenger side I did to show another rennlister having problems https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600203&referrerid=28499
#10
Rennlist Member
[QUOTE=pp000830;10541442............ To eliminate the problem going forward or to ensure the passenger side door never has this the fix is to remove the strap from the door in a vice do some prying to get the rubber friction blocks out of the strap mechanism, trim the blocks so the stay produces less resistance and reassemble.
Andy[/QUOTE]
Andy's last paragraph bears repeating .... I did this trimming of the rubber blocks trick nearly 5 years ago - and no signs of stress yet on the door strap.
The weld repair in my case was a surface TIG weld of the bracket to the pillar - no signs of cracking ...
Andy[/QUOTE]
Andy's last paragraph bears repeating .... I did this trimming of the rubber blocks trick nearly 5 years ago - and no signs of stress yet on the door strap.
The weld repair in my case was a surface TIG weld of the bracket to the pillar - no signs of cracking ...
#11
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I did this at least 8 years ago, might be closer to 10 - and it is still holding strong. I do not agree that you have to dig into the back and go to all the expense to do it behind. Its a matter of a good weld.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
#12
My A-Pillar was cut and the weld was reinforced (boxed) and then finished:
Tony
#13
When my door strap got to the same point as the one in the video it was a matter of about 10-20 open/closing sequences before the weld completely snapped. I currently took the pin out and just hold the door when I open and close (because if you don't and you get a gust of wind you bend the steel from your door and fender when it swings around 180 degrees!).
This winter I would like to remove the door and fender and have the whole thing welded to a reinforced plate and then boxed in from behind.
If you reach your hand behind the pillar you will feel the torn piece of steel where it's about to let go.
This winter I would like to remove the door and fender and have the whole thing welded to a reinforced plate and then boxed in from behind.
If you reach your hand behind the pillar you will feel the torn piece of steel where it's about to let go.
#15
I wouldn't use a hammer! I used channel locks with the ends covered in electric tape to not scratch anything and just pushed the pin out by clamping the top of the pliers on the car's door check bracket and then pushing on the pin from the bottom with the other part of the channel locks. I'll snap a photo tonight.