x3

The clear hoses on my Motive dried out and cracked after about 6 years - but an easy replacement.

 

I used my Motive bleeder for 8 years. It worked on BMWs and Porsches. Heck...I even used it to test a boost sensor by pressurizing it 1 psi at a time and checking the output voltage. My hose was cracked at the end. I just cut off the section and re-crimp.

Gotten 10x value out of what I paid for it. Good product.

 

It's sold online elsewhere, but for much more $$.

What is does is create suction at the nipple (grow up everyone ) pulls the fluid through, so there is no chance of air entering the lines. You hook it up to the air compressor.The filler bottle fits perfectly and you can adjust the depth so you don't overfill.

Best thing is you can do it with 1 person and also pump the pedal at the same time. You can see all the fluid entering and leaving, plus easily adjust the air pressure. BEST part there is 0 chance of the thing exploding, so no atomized brake fluid.

Yes, its far easier to clean and setup VS the Motive.

 

I have that same tool. It is sold here by a BMW parts place under its own name. The tool works well. My only issue with it is that Motive sells more reservoir caps and the only alternative cap available from this manufacturer is a universal cap. The universal cap worked well on one car, but was useless on another. The cap that came with the tool will work on my 996 and my wife's E92.

 

Mike, so you have to walk the bottle to each of the calipers then, and then cycle through the front and rear bleed nipples as well if its pulling the fluid from the nipple?

If you are using a compressor anyways, would it not be easier just to use my approach of pressurizing the reservoir through a pressure regulator and just walk around to the four corners and bleed?

BTW, been using the same method and piece of equipment for bleeding my 911's for going on 15 years, have not had to replace anything yet...

Cheers,

Mike

 

I have one too. I purchased their less expensive one and have used it once. I should kick myself for procrastinating so long before getting it. It makes bleeding brakes an enjoyable experience.
Andy

 

Thanks for all your input on this! I have now bought a cheap and very simple bleeder where you just use your tire-pressure for pushing the brake fluid through the system (dry approach). It didn't cost much, so at least it's worth a try.

 

That's pretty cool. Let us know how it works!
Michael

 

Will do!

 

Hi,

This is a subject that I have an interest in. I just changed the brake fluid
in my car this past weekend. I am going to do a writeup on the process
but I am buried in work at the moment. In the meantime I wanted to
just add my $.02 to the dialogue.

I use a Phoenix Injector, the MaxPro model. I've used it for the past 6 years
on 3 different Porsches. I find it works very well. I had to make a couple of
custom modifications for cap adapters to improve the effectiveness to my
liking.

I modified a generic European MC reservoir cap to include a Luer quick
connect fitting for the Phoenix Injector. I also had a machine shop make a
nozzle that extends into the fluid in the reservoir to introduce the fresh brake
fluid below the air trap at the top. This prevents aerating the fluid that would
spray into the reservoir otherwise. This is important to prevent introduction of
air into the fluid.

One of the reasons I like the Phoenix Injector is that it achieves the idea of
fluid-air separation. The fresh fluid is drawn from the source container via
vacuum and pumped into the hydraulic system without encountering air that is
under pressure or otherwise. This is also one of the reasons I have reservations
about the Motive bleeder and others like it that do not separate
the fluid from air via a diaphragm. There is the risk of air getting into the fluid.

There is another product I would consider made by ATE. The FB 5p
is a bleeder that uses a diaphragm to separate the fluid from the pressurized air.

In case you're wondering about cost, I have about $450 in my system that I've
customized. The ATE FB 5p is about $650.

Finally, after having done the clutch bleed under the car for the past 6 years,
I've decided to try out a clutch remote bleeder setup. This is the only step
in the whole process that keeps changing the brake fluid from being a simple
and effortless process.

Following are a few photos of my system and one of the ATE FB 5p and a
remote clutch bleeder.

-bruce

 

Hi Bruce,

Interesting setup - but by pressurizing the reservoir by pumping fluid in (since there is still air in the cavity it means that will pressurize ) you still have the tendency to push any water in the reservoir air into the fluid, correct? How much pressure are you using?

I do not aerate the fluid much either because, well, I just pour it into the reservoir.

In my case, I have two water separators and a desiccator circuit in my compressed air circuit before it enters the main reservoir, so the air I am using to compress the fluid is likely more dry than the atmosphere. (I use the air for a plasma cutter and spray guns as well, so it has to be clean and dry).

My disadvantage is I have to refill the reservoir a few times while pumping, but there is also very little chance of spillage from hoses, and no fluid gets inside any of my air lines, etc.

Interesting on how many different approaches people have taken.

Cheers,

Mike

 

Hi Mike,

I fill the reservoir up to within 1/2 inch of the top so the air gap there is very
small. You could take all the air out but then it will overflow when you remove
the cap and you'd have to clean that up.

I don't know what the pressure is because I don't have a pressure gauge in-line
to check it. That might be a good thing to know. I could set one up I guess.
Right now I rely on feel and haven't had a problem over-presurizing the system.

I think the injector can exceed the recommended 1.5 bar easily, but it is temporary
and helps to jar loose air bubbles that may be attached in the lines.

-bruce

 

You leave the one bottle in the car to keep fluid in the system. Then you just hook up the hose to the brake nipples and pul the trigger, it pulls the fluid through.

It's the same as what you are doing now, just you are pulling instead of pushing, and there is NO pressurized brake fluid under the hood. The suction bottle looses pressure as soon as you release the trigger. I like the fact I can adjust the level of bleeding form very slow to quickly by just pulling the trigger.

yea, I know your way, remember we tried to replace my rear brake lines?