Sagres74

As I worked on my car this past weekend, I noticed that my front drop links were completely blown. Being that I've noticed no problems with driveability, I made a mental note for yet another project, put the tire back on and went about my business.

As I rolled the car out of the driveway yesterday afternoon to run an errand, I heard/felt a click every rotation of the wheel. I drove the car back into my driveway, switched cars and went about my business.(again)

Today, I jacked the car up again, inspected the area to make sure I didn't mistakenly leave anything loose from working on the brakes and reinspected the drop links. Yup - confirmed all was properly stowed and that the drop links still looked like crap.

- Can the click be attributed to the drop link?
- In researching the issue here and on other sites, I've noticed a serious price range for replacements:
...dC Automotive - $35/each http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/807208906
...AutoAtlanta - $89/each http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-O...334307100.html
...Pelican - $204/each http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...FILTER_911L=ON
... Tarret - $250/set http://www.tarett.com/items/993-964-...lnk-detail.htm

As much as I'd love to track the car, I don't. W/ that said, I have Bilsteins B6 w/ H&R springs which gave me a lowered stance. In considering replacement drop links, does it matter which of the above I purchase? In reading some of the older posts, many are in favor of the Tarret Engineering.

Thoughts on all?

Sagres74

Here's view 1:

Here's a close up:

Sagres74

Am I looking up the coorect part number in the different sites? I believe so. - #7 Stabilizer Mounting

BobbyT

Hi Sagres,

Is the dc Automotive drop link a used part?

Also, the Auto Atlanta one looks to be made from round bar stock, quite different in appearance from the factory part. I don't know if this makes any difference in performance, just an observation.

dcautomotive

We have them used, and they are cheap(er), they will be in good order with good boots and a 90 day warranty, but they are used.

Negative on the clicking with wheel rotation.

rex/dC

kjr914

You can disconnect the drop link and drive it to see if the noise goes away (I wouldn't drive it hard...). Duct tape or cable tie it up out of the way or just remove it entirely for the test.

But since you worked on the brakes and removed wheels, I'd start looking there for your new noise. Besides, your noise (if I read it correctly) is a 1x/wheel rotation, so look for something rotating/wheel related, not a fixed bar+drop link.

PelicanParts.com

As far as the noise you heard, really should do an extended test drive - may have been something that simply settled when you backed out.

pp000830

Don't assume you need new drop links. Even if the booties are rotten you can get replacement booties, nice red or blue ones if you do not like black, that goes for tie rod ends as well. Unbolt one of the drop link ends and see if there is any looseness. Not sure if the drop link in actually under load all the time and if it is the noise is not from them.. Are your wheel center caps tight. They can make a click if loose.
Andy :-)

Sagres74

Thanks all for the great input. I just test drove the car w/ a couple of laps around the neighborhood after inspecting everything yesterday... heard some minor clicks here and there for the first lap but then nothing. So, as mentioned, might have simply been a settling issues.

Andy (PP00830) makes a great point: in previous FWD cars I've had that had ripped CV boots, so long as there was no play, new boots and fresh grease sufficed. I'll remove both in the near future and investigate the way forward.