jdistefa

Viggo,

45mm stud is standard size. You can sneak a 52mm stud in the rear hub flange without pressing it out (and having to replace the bearing). 66 & 72mm require taking things apart. Ask me how I know

All depends how much spacer you need to run....

Paul M

What drove the decision to go with non-oem toe links? With all of the other arms being RS parts, was it the adjustable length?

At RS height, is the length adjustment necessary?

P.S. My car is on its original suspension, I am deciding how high to make the cliff I am about to jump off...

993KT

I went with what Bill and some other recommended. It is a solid link, so it took away some of the KT effect I suppose and made the car more responsive. The adjustment for the KT is not easy and I didn't want to bother trying different setups.

Paul M

Ok, if I understand correctly, it's the added stiffness/lack of movement in that joint that is more important than the adjustment in length. Thanks!

Bill Verburg

the rear toe links are highly stressed parts, the bushes on that link are generally the first to go even in street use, and eccentric adjusters don't hold at all in track use. The cure is mono-ball toe links w/ locks that replace the adjusters, adjustment is now done by the turnbuckle arrangement of the arm itself. Additional boots to cover the mono-***** extend life

Paul M

Thanks Bill. Is there any difficulty in installing the inner boots? It looks pretty tight in there.

And for clarification, we are talking about part S72.10.41 on the Rennline website, right?

Bill Verburg

Yes, I have Tarrett's version but Rennline has the same parts, rear toe link w/ lock. The booties are installed before the links are installed. You'll have to check w/ Rennline about the boots

These don't really affect KT, which is controlled by the lower A-arm and the top rear link. If both of those are changed to mono-ball links then KT is eliminated except for whatever is dialed in statically.

V

Paul/Bill,

As per Bill's recommendation I'm about to order two of the Rennline toe links with the part number you posted. I just have a question to you guys regarding the boots they sell;

http://www.rennline.com/Rubber-Boots...%2D222%2DBOOT/

They say the boots fit all of their arms. Stupid question but do you use one or two boots per arm? (boots come in pairs). Second question is do I only need boots for the monoball toe arms or do I need boots for the OEM ball joints/other arms as well?

Bill, if there's something from Rennline (or other vendor for that matter) that I missed that I should order "while I'm in there", please let me know.. . I hope you like spending OPM (Other Peoples Money). Hehe. I thought about top mounts but tough to say until I know which suspension system I will use. I guess the same goes for camber plates?

993KT

I have the rennline toe links, but the boots are from Tarrett (Rennline didn't have the boots when I ordered them). I booted up both ends of the toe link because they are all ball joints. The boots are not too difficult in install, just use some WD40 for lubrication. Make sure you use some anti-seize for the toe link rod ends. All the OE ball joint ends have boots on them already.

Are you changing all the other arms as well? Solid subframe mounts from Rennline would be a good investment while you are in there. Otherwise it's also a perfect time to get the aluminum doors you wanted

V

Hey OP/993KT,

Great thread . Got it, will order two pairs of boots for two toe arms. Actually now that you say it, I know that the OEM arms have boots on them, thanks for the heads up. I went a different route and bought a kit similar to the Elephant one, i.e. I have new RS hardness rubber for every bushing front to rear. But as per Bills recommendation I will get the monoball links for the toe arm. Otherwise I'm using the OEM arms but with the replaced rubber. I also have the RS sways, droplinks, RS uprights, GT2 EVO tie rods, rear subframe tilt kit etc. Probably forgot something but it's all there, everything new. Just not sure which suspension to go with (MCS/Moton or KWV3?), which in turn will determine which top mounts camber plates etc, I think? Would love to get aluminum doors, you just tell me where to buy them.. . Seems to made of unobtanium..

jdistefa

^ Viggo, send a PM to Sonny1, I think he has what you're looking for

Also, if you really want to "tie down" the rear end, solid subframe bushings + heim jointed toe arms + heim jointed KT arms is the way to go. For street use you can leave the camber arm factory/RS rubber bushings.

Bill Verburg

When mounted as they are for the toe arms, safety washers are recommended for the spherical joint, I've never seen an issue but the engineers recommend them
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3068

993KT

Since quite a few here were asking about feedback on this setup, thought I give another update here. Had about 500 miles on the car since, and went out for a hand full of hard drives. It is pretty freaking awesome. In a turn from apex to exist is absolutely perfect. The car rotates around you, tones of grip, with very nice progressive breakaway in the back if you are aggressive with the power. You can trim the line with the throttle, but the rear does not step out even if you back off a little fast. It handles mid corner bumps pretty well. You still feel the car bounding up and down, but it's holding the line. Front end feel and feedback is good, and it turns very quickly. Missing a little of the on-center feel and positive feel at turn in. I think I need to up the caster to see if that will feel better. The front can also use a little more grip, so I might soften the front sway. The ride is good with the 17", but man the roads we have in Michigan really sucks. Even on newly paved highways, you can feel the little bit of wave on the surface. I never noticed that in my TDi before, but now that I know it's there, I can feel it in the TDi's steering also. So maybe a little softer damping to see if that helps.

On to the next project: weight reduction.

993KT

What a huge difference a little adjustment made! All that wandering and throttle (over)sensitivity on highway cruising speed are gone. On-center is much better and the steering is loading up very nicely. Everyone says 993 is very sensitive to alignment, I just didn't expect it to be this drastic.

Highly recommend Custom Alignment in Mountain View. Knowledgeable, on time, and reasonably price.