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Nearly full RS suspension upgrade

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Old 08-03-2013, 10:12 PM
  #46  
Matt Lane
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
I don't know if they were bolts or studs, we happened to be parked next to each other


That one wasn't half as bad as the GT3 that popped a hose and lubed the whole track w/ antifreeze, there was a lot of rally cross action going on behind him
Fairly typical...



Pinning fittings or running water wetter apparently voids warranties. Not sure how balling up your (or your buddies) cars is better, but apparently it is.



Glad you made out OK.
Old 08-04-2013, 08:49 PM
  #47  
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One corner done. Pretty straight forward with no surprises.
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Old 08-04-2013, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by irule
Wow :O Can you give more info about the old and new tires and wheels (sizes) and how much the new ones improved in drive quality?
Did some calculation and I think I will go with 225/45 front and 255/40 rear. I probably would prefer 215 front or 265 rear, but I don't want the front and rear circumference to be too far off. If I track the car more, I probably will get some 18" OZ with more tires, but for street I like to have lower limits and better ride.
Old 08-05-2013, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 993KT
Did some calculation and I think I will go with 225/45 front and 255/40 rear. I probably would prefer 215 front or 265 rear, but I don't want the front and rear circumference to be too far off. If I track the car more, I probably will get some 18" OZ with more tires, but for street I like to have lower limits and better ride.
For track use you will definitely want both wider wheels and tires
Old 08-12-2013, 10:21 AM
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Got the fronts done and started on replacing the leaking valve gasket. In the mean time, installed the FDM / Rothsport SSK. I spray painted the shifter because I ditched the OE leather shift boot and the shifter is partially exposed.

I also installed a fire extinguisher on the center tunnel. That took me 4 trips to the hardware store and over 2 hours. Probably replace it with a black HalGuard in the future.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:43 PM
  #51  
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Everything in! Including new valve gaskets and oil filters. Misplaced a rear wheel speed sensor, hope I can find that later tonight.

Here is the challenging part: I need to get to my mechanic, 30 miles away, for alignment. I have no experience doing alignment, and there is nothing flat or straight in my garage / driveway. Current plan is to just drive off highway, at <40 mph. The tires are old so I don't mind destroying them. Any other ideas?
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:47 PM
  #52  
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You might want to consider putting a locking ring UNDER the drop links before doing an alignment. A number of people have had the drop link(s) come loose and/or break including me. If installed correctly not suppose to happen but others claim to still have had an issue.
Old 08-19-2013, 06:23 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by il pirata
You might want to consider putting a locking ring UNDER the drop links before doing an alignment. A number of people have had the drop link(s) come loose and/or break including me. If installed correctly not suppose to happen but others claim to still have had an issue.
Thanks for the tip. I remember reading about that. Right now it's at the lowest position so I'm not sure if there is space for another lock ring. I wonder if I can safety wire it somehow.
Old 08-19-2013, 07:25 PM
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Get those wheels on!!!wanna see!!!!cheers,
sonny1.
Old 08-19-2013, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by il pirata
You might want to consider putting a locking ring UNDER the drop links before doing an alignment. A number of people have had the drop link(s) come loose and/or break including me. If installed correctly not suppose to happen but others claim to still have had an issue.
+1

Here's mine
Old 08-19-2013, 10:38 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 993KT
Thanks for the tip. I remember reading about that. Right now it's at the lowest position so I'm not sure if there is space for another lock ring. I wonder if I can safety wire it somehow.
A little perplexed...my car car is at the other garage so I cannot go look at it...but I know Bill has his car below RS height...not sure why you do do not have any thread left...so what exactly is your height (measured by the correct bolts f/r?)
Old 08-19-2013, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sonny1
Get those wheels on!!!wanna see!!!!cheers,
sonny1.
No new tire yet. Thinking about reusing the Dunlop on the cup II.
Old 08-19-2013, 10:49 PM
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Sway bar link, from Elephant, seems an excellent way to stop the travel of the mount.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by il pirata
A little perplexed...my car car is at the other garage so I cannot go look at it...but I know Bill has his car below RS height...not sure why you do do not have any thread left...so what exactly is your height (measured by the correct bolts f/r?)
It works for bill because his shocks has a lot more thread than pss10. If I need to put a lock ring below the bracket, the sway bar gets awfully close to the kt link. I look around the web, and it seems most people has the bracket on the pss10 at the lowest point when using rs sway and drop link. Also, most people who had problem had the shorter drop link with the sway bar above the kt link. Not saying that it is not a concern for me, but not sure what options I have except for torquing the **** out of what I have...
Old 08-19-2013, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sonny1
Sway bar link, from Elephant, seems an excellent way to stop the travel of the mount.
Wow, that looks magical! Good find!

I wish Bilstein would just make their pss10 with same size front and rear stud, the front studs a bit longer, a rear spring hat that works for solid mounts, and more threads on the shock body with a extra lock ring.


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