Nearly full RS suspension upgrade
#46
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Pinning fittings or running water wetter apparently voids warranties. Not sure how balling up your (or your buddies) cars is better, but apparently it is.
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Glad you made out OK.
#48
Racer
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Did some calculation and I think I will go with 225/45 front and 255/40 rear. I probably would prefer 215 front or 265 rear, but I don't want the front and rear circumference to be too far off. If I track the car more, I probably will get some 18" OZ with more tires, but for street I like to have lower limits and better ride.
#49
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Did some calculation and I think I will go with 225/45 front and 255/40 rear. I probably would prefer 215 front or 265 rear, but I don't want the front and rear circumference to be too far off. If I track the car more, I probably will get some 18" OZ with more tires, but for street I like to have lower limits and better ride.
#50
Racer
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Got the fronts done and started on replacing the leaking valve gasket. In the mean time, installed the FDM / Rothsport SSK. I spray painted the shifter because I ditched the OE leather shift boot and the shifter is partially exposed.
I also installed a fire extinguisher on the center tunnel. That took me 4 trips to the hardware store and over 2 hours. Probably replace it with a black HalGuard in the future.
I also installed a fire extinguisher on the center tunnel. That took me 4 trips to the hardware store and over 2 hours. Probably replace it with a black HalGuard in the future.
#51
Racer
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Everything in! Including new valve gaskets and oil filters. Misplaced a rear wheel speed sensor, hope I can find that later tonight.
Here is the challenging part: I need to get to my mechanic, 30 miles away, for alignment. I have no experience doing alignment, and there is nothing flat or straight in my garage / driveway. Current plan is to just drive off highway, at <40 mph. The tires are old so I don't mind destroying them. Any other ideas?
Here is the challenging part: I need to get to my mechanic, 30 miles away, for alignment. I have no experience doing alignment, and there is nothing flat or straight in my garage / driveway. Current plan is to just drive off highway, at <40 mph. The tires are old so I don't mind destroying them. Any other ideas?
#52
Banned
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You might want to consider putting a locking ring UNDER the drop links before doing an alignment. A number of people have had the drop link(s) come loose and/or break including me. If installed correctly not suppose to happen but others claim to still have had an issue.
#53
Racer
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You might want to consider putting a locking ring UNDER the drop links before doing an alignment. A number of people have had the drop link(s) come loose and/or break including me. If installed correctly not suppose to happen but others claim to still have had an issue.
#55
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You might want to consider putting a locking ring UNDER the drop links before doing an alignment. A number of people have had the drop link(s) come loose and/or break including me. If installed correctly not suppose to happen but others claim to still have had an issue.
Here's mine
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads22/6_30_12__+0111376955775.jpg)
#56
Banned
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A little perplexed...my car car is at the other garage so I cannot go look at it...but I know Bill has his car below RS height...not sure why you do do not have any thread left...so what exactly is your height (measured by the correct bolts f/r?)
#59
Racer
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It works for bill because his shocks has a lot more thread than pss10. If I need to put a lock ring below the bracket, the sway bar gets awfully close to the kt link. I look around the web, and it seems most people has the bracket on the pss10 at the lowest point when using rs sway and drop link. Also, most people who had problem had the shorter drop link with the sway bar above the kt link. Not saying that it is not a concern for me, but not sure what options I have except for torquing the **** out of what I have...
#60
Racer
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I wish Bilstein would just make their pss10 with same size front and rear stud, the front studs a bit longer, a rear spring hat that works for solid mounts, and more threads on the shock body with a extra lock ring.