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Nearly full RS suspension upgrade

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Old 08-19-2013, 11:06 PM
  #61  
sonny1
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You can always contact Bilstein in Cal. they got lots of hardware options for the PSS10's, hats., etc.,cheers, sonny1.
Old 08-19-2013, 11:24 PM
  #62  
sonny1
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Also, Rennline has spring hats for the rear that are flatter so the stud will penetrate the mount better.This sounds a bit pornographic, Jezz, I'm going to bed, cheers,
Old 08-19-2013, 11:25 PM
  #63  
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You can get the alignment somewhat close just by eyeballing it -- i.e., you will be able to tell if your wheels have crazy toe or camber settings.
Old 08-20-2013, 09:39 AM
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Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by 993KT
Wow, that looks magical! Good find!

I wish Bilstein would just make their pss10 with same size front and rear stud, the front studs a bit longer, a rear spring hat that works for solid mounts, and more threads on the shock body with a extra lock ring.
You've got to be careful w/ the shock lengths, the last suspension i had on mine w/ normal length shocks made the stud protrude so far that it interfered w/ the mono-ball mount which had to be clearanced, bottom line reaalu low cars need really short shocks.
Old 08-20-2013, 02:55 PM
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OP/911KT; Did the hub have to come off the car in order to install the longer wheel studs in the rear? Looks great
Old 08-20-2013, 03:18 PM
  #66  
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Viggo,
The hubs have to come out, the angle will be to much for correct alignment on the holes of the hubs for 70mm studs, you have to punch them in straight with the center line of the stud hole.,cheers.
sonny1.
Old 08-20-2013, 04:41 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by sonny1
Viggo,
The hubs have to come out, the angle will be to much for correct alignment on the holes of the hubs for 70mm studs, you have to punch them in straight with the center line of the stud hole.,cheers.
sonny1.
Ok good to know, thanks . The front might be doable but in the rear not so much it seems.
Old 08-20-2013, 07:37 PM
  #68  
993KT
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Originally Posted by V
Ok good to know, thanks . The front might be doable but in the rear not so much it seems.
The front has a nice cut out in the hub so it's not a problem. No chance in the rear. There is barely enough space for getting the stock ones out. Not even sure if you can get a 60mm stud in there.
Old 08-20-2013, 11:50 PM
  #69  
Jack Esposito
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Take a closer look at your drop link location relative to Bill's. His is to the outside of the sway bar and attaches to the inside of the bracket. Your location on the bracket puts more twisting moment on the bracket causing it to turn on the shock, which will result in a broken drop link.
Old 09-11-2013, 10:48 AM
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993KT
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Finally everything is done and aligned. Couldn't lower the front passenger side below RS + 10. The lock rings on that end are already at the lowest position. It's corner balanced so the driver side sits even higher without me in it. Hope everything will set a bit with some driving. Anyone has idea why that might be? We checked to make sure the springs have the correct part number. The strut mount is set up correctly verified with Rennline. The A arm mounts were loosen when setting the ride height.
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:45 PM
  #71  
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Closing thoughts:

+ Turn-in is super fast, bump steer is all gone, more front end feedback, and require a bit more muscle to hold it at high speed curves. Grip seems to be higher overall, with the front just dart to where you are pointing, and the rear is very well planted. There is absolutely no problem with the ride, in fact it rides better than what I had before.

- It wanders a little at high speed straight line flat, and something is still a little out of phase (yaw vs roll) at very small steering input. There is also quite a bit of influence on yaw based on throttle input at low lateral. I'm going to put another 100 miles on the car and check alignment again, especially the front toe and caster. Hope the suspension sags a bit also.

For reference this is the setting: RS+5, RS alignment, Conti ExtremeContact DW, Middle position for both front and rear sway, 5/5 on PSS10.

Last edited by 993KT; 09-13-2013 at 03:20 PM.
Old 09-13-2013, 01:00 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by 993KT
Closing thoughts:

+ Turn-in is super fast, bump steer is all gone, more front end feedback, and require a bit more muscle to hold it at high speed curves. Grip seems to be higher overall, with the front just dart to where you are pointing, and the rear is very well planted. There is absolutely no problem with the ride, in fact it rides better than what I had before.

- It wonders a little at high speed straight line flat, and something is still a little out of phase (yaw vs roll) at very small steering input. There is also quite a bit of influence on yaw based on throttle input at low lateral. I'm going to put another 100 miles on the car and check alignment again, especially the front toe and caster. Hope the suspension sags a bit also.

For reference this is the setting: RS+5, RS alignment, Conti ExtremeContact DW, Middle position for both front and rear sway, 5/5 on PSS10.
RS height is a range, in front the range is 114 to 134mm, it is unclear what RS +5 means
Old 09-13-2013, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
RS height is a range, in front the range is 114 to 134mm, it is unclear what RS +5 means
The ride height is a setting with a tolerance, not a range.

IE: RS Ride height is:
Front 124
Rear 107

The tolerance is +/- 10mm

When we consider the Tolerance we get a range of acceptable heights being:
Front: 114 to 134
Rear: 97 to 117

To me when someone says RS +5 I think of:
Front: 129
Rear: 112
Old 09-13-2013, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by trophy
The ride height is a setting with a tolerance, not a range.

IE: RS Ride height is:
Front 124
Rear 107

The tolerance is +/- 10mm

When we consider the Tolerance we get a range of acceptable heights being:
Front: 114 to 134
Rear: 97 to 117

To me when someone says RS +5 I think of:
Front: 129
Rear: 112
I don't
Old 09-13-2013, 03:18 PM
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Sorry about the confusion, it's ~129/112 for me right now. I would have preferred to start at the 124/107, but I just can't get there.


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