autobonrun

When I removed the engine pan plug I was surprised to see in addition to the plug, a metal piece that fits loosely in the plug, then a 2" or so long spring, then another metal plug like piece on top. All came out.

Is this normal for the 993? After draining the oil, I put them back in the order they came out but I was surprised to see all these other parts in addition to the plug. I've done multiple changes on my SC and all I have is a drain plug, not springs and other parts.

rdevany

Wrong plug....you took out the pressure relief valve. The drain plug is on the left side. Watch the oil pressure...if its lower than normal, you may have put the spring assembly in wrong.

BesideTheBox

Here's a picture that shows the drain plug in context. Red circle is around the oil drain plug.

autobonrun

Thanks for the fast response guys. I went back underneath and see the correct one. I thought something was not right there; not much oil came out. I see the correct plug is much lower and will allow more to drain.

Fortunately the relief valve came out with the plug so I put it back in the same sequence it came out. However, I'll still keep an eye on the oil pressure especially at start up and once it comes up to temperature.

ble2011

I did the same thing on my first oil change. When I took out the plug, all the pieces went everywhere. A fellow RLer sent a diagram on how to put it all back together. I bet we are not the only two that have done this.

autobonrun

Got her back together and the pressure is good given the current ambient temperature; about 2 bar at idle and 4 bar under acceleration.

The previous mechanic made things very difficult by tightening the filters much more than necessary. I used a large wrench and had to nearly destroy the end of the large filter to get it off.

This is one of those DIY's every owner should do once. You quickly determine in your own mind that the charge the mechanic wants for an oil change on a 993 is more than fair. Especially given that a third of the cost is for materials and supplies. My mechanic just justified another $50 if he asks for it.

I rank this right up there with replacing torsion arm bushings on a 911SC and having to use a butane torch to burn them off. It's something I can say I've done once, but have no intention of ever doing again. The 993 oil change is just too aggravating; nothing is easy to do or get at. The drain plug for the reservoir is right where the jack stand goes so placing a catch pan under is an exercise. The drain for the engine pan is right where my jack was located so I had to balance the catch pan on top of the jack. Even pouring 11 quarts of oil into a 1" hole requires excessive concentration and thought. But it's done for another 5k miles which for me is at least a year.

ble2011

I is frustrating at first, but just like anything, after a few more times it becomes much easier.

nine9six

Funny...I just did my first oik change on my 993, today. I thought it was alot easier than I've heard people tell.

The most laborsome part is jacking up the car

It's a forgone conclusion that I want a bend-pak scissor lift.

Found the oli tank drain plug hex stripped half of its total length; so I hammered my 6 point 15mm socket onto the hex and hoped for the best. A new drain plug will go back in its place and the other will be a spare.

Some hamfisted drone overtightened both filters...What part of hand tight do these guys not understand?

P.S. 40 ft lbs seems excessive for the tank and motor oil drain plugs...Can someone please confirm?

Cheers

Ed Hughes

The drain and pressure goodies are in the same positions as they were on your SC.

ja78911sc

Torque wrench on a drain plug? Hand tight and firm

KaiB

Ours were around 50 ft lbs and a TSB corrected this to around 40. Remember you're using a crush washer there which must seat properly.

Mike J

I find I do not like the recommended torque on the plug - I think the heat cycles make the plug seat itself, and it always seems harder to undo that the torque specifies. I use about 20-25 ft-lbs instead of 40. I really watch this on the main drain on the tank - that plug is very soft aluminum and it tends to round out - make sure you use a 6 point socket to maximize the grip.

Even with this reduced torque, I have ever had a leak nor have a plug back out (after doing this on lots of cars). I do notice that if I do another change on the same car, the filters and plugs come off with easier (with a good tug of course) vs. other mechanics - like you, I have had cars some in that I needed to virtually destroy the filter to get them off.

I do have an advantage by having a lift, that makes quite a difference on the ease of doing a change.

Cheers,

Mike

nine9six

Thanks for your input, Mike...I appreciate the feedback.

AKTUNG

Is there a way to completely drain AA the oil? Manual calls for just over 9 quarts with filter change but total capacity is 12 quarts. What if you ran the enfine for 10 seconds or so after a complete drain? That would seem to be enought to get it all out yet not run the engine long enough to cause any problem. Possible? Or am I just asking for trouble?? Thoughts?????

Ed Hughes

You're joking about running the engine, right? That would be the most expensive oil change ever.

You will drain closer to 10.5 qts, at a normal oil change.