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Old 04-05-2013, 04:50 PM
  #31  
KaiB
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Here's that 340 BHP, 3.6 with our custom intake & exhaust. Very mild cams, stock pistons and basically a stock bottom end (ARP rod bolts with good bearings).

Call me for some ideas as we've built & dyno'ed quite a number of 3.6. 3.8 & 3.9 litre engines in a variety of configurations making anywhere from 300 to 435 BHP. There is a LOT more to this than meets the eye.
HEY - I know that engine!!!

This is an extremely strong engine with torque to die for. As a street engine, it would be wonderful. As Steve mentioned, stock heads and internals, but it pulls like a freight train from down under.
Old 04-05-2013, 05:38 PM
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bobt993
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Originally Posted by NP993


Never said what you're claiming I said! Obviously, there are many costs involved in an engine rebuild beyond the 9M parts in question.

What I did say, and what remains 100% true, is that the cost of the 9M heads/cams/p's & c's is about $15K.

Here it is (from a 2010 post) by the head of 9M himself:



At today's exchange rate, FWIW, that's $14,707.22
Sorry to ruin your budget, but Steve is correct. Once you invest in bearings, gaskets, and all the related hardware your adding 30% more to the budget.

Build a good motor without going crazy. Add gearing and a proper diff then lighten the car 300 to 400 lbs and you will have some reliability/performance. For street I would just find a salvage twin turbo motor and stuff in the car. For combo track (DE), street then I would build a bit higher rev engine.

My engine has CMW billet heads, factory RSR pistons, TWM ITB's, Motec, GT3 oil pump, Carillo rods, Elgin cams, Clewett pulley setup, GT2 rockers. I can tell you from buiding a 3.6's this is very different territory on costs. I started this "having no idea" several years ago, but now can say at least I know a little more than when I started.... If you really want to know the cost to do this get a spreadsheet going and list every bolt, washer, machine work, assembly, tuning (Motec tuner on the wheel dyno and at a track).
Old 04-05-2013, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bobt993
Sorry to ruin your budget
I think there is a failure of very, very basic reading comprehension in this thread.
Old 04-05-2013, 07:05 PM
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Bill Verburg
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Here's a comparison of an '95 US M64/07 3.6 w/ RS cams, Steve Weiner heads, Steve Wong custom chip, 993 separated cat bypass, stock mufflers and a '97 RoW M64/21, stock heads w/ RS valves, Steve Wong chip, RS cams, RSR p/c, ARP rod bolts, 993 separated cat bypass, 993tt mufflers. All #s come from a DynaPack dyno

FWHP are estimates using 15% transmission loss all other data is as measured at the rear wheel



Both cars are wonderful to drive around on the street and track, both come in ~2700# sopping wet, both have re-geared trans

W/ these cams there is no need to raise rev limits

I'd be loath to raise the rev limit w/o a GT3 bottom end, though some successfully do so w/ oiling mods and Carillo rods

there is certainly hp/torque in the cams and intake, as shown by Kais motor

but again, one thing leads to another,
raise revs => additional bottom end work
happy cams => ITB's and raised rev limit
ITB's => Motec or similar
Old 04-05-2013, 07:06 PM
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Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Originally Posted by KaiB
HEY - I know that engine!!!
You certainly do,....

This is an extremely strong engine with torque to die for. As a street engine, it would be wonderful. As Steve mentioned, stock heads and internals, but it pulls like a freight train from down under.
This one is VERY streetable and I'd give anything to have it in my own street car.
Old 04-05-2013, 07:09 PM
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KaiB
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Bill brings this up often - as do I.

REGEAR - ya'll with six speeds could have a really nice tight box with a 1.00 or 0.95 top gear.
Old 04-05-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by KaiB
Bill brings this up often - as do I.

REGEAR - ya'll with six speeds could have a really nice tight box with a 1.00 or 0.95 top gear.
I did regear.....now I'm thinking of a fun fall project,and your engine looks like just the ticket.



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Old 04-09-2013, 07:53 PM
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I like Kai's engine, but it requires a different motec, and won't pass my emissions due to not talking to computer.
I will either do a version of my current 3.6 or go 3.8
I would really like to try 3.8 with RS cams and valves,but can I still use my stock v-ram?
I plan on sending parts out to Ollie's for cleaning and specs,as the case is now split.

Emerald
Old 04-09-2013, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by e3photo
I like Kai's engine, but it requires a different motec, and won't pass my emissions due to not talking to computer.
I will either do a version of my current 3.6 or go 3.8
I would really like to try 3.8 with RS cams and valves,but can I still use my stock v-ram?
I plan on sending parts out to Ollie's for cleaning and specs,as the case is now split.

Emerald
Sure, that would make a wonderful power plant but the icing on the cake is raising the rev limit by 500 to 1000. The better your gearing the more it cries for rpm

Take a look at what 9M just posted.

Unfortunately to raise rev limits you have to beef up the bottom end,
I used ARP rod bolts which help marginally, I still keep a 6950 redline

a good set of rods helps a lot too, as in the recent 9M build, where w/ just rods they boosted the redline to 7500, as long as the cams warrant it that's good.


the ultimate is a GT3 crank & rods & oil pump w/ custom made l/w pistons, you also need l/w valve train which RS is not.
Old 04-09-2013, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
Sure, that would make a wonderful power plant but the icing on the cake is raising the rev limit by 500 to 1000. The better your gearing the more it cries for rpm

Take a look at what 9M just posted.

Unfortunately to raise rev limits you have to beef up the bottom end,
I used ARP rod bolts which help marginally, I still keep a 6950 redline

a good set of rods helps a lot too, as in the recent 9M build, where w/ just rods they boosted the redline to 7500, as long as the cams warrant it that's good.


the ultimate is a GT3 crank & rods & oil pump w/ custom made l/w pistons, you also need l/w valve train which RS is not.
Thanks Bill,

A very helpful thread. I am not sure how far I want to take it,but I like your thought process,and information.

Thanks again,
Emerald
Old 04-10-2013, 12:38 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by e3photo
I like Kai's engine, but it requires a different motec, and won't pass my emissions due to not talking to computer.
I will either do a version of my current 3.6 or go 3.8
I would really like to try 3.8 with RS cams and valves,but can I still use my stock v-ram?
I plan on sending parts out to Ollie's for cleaning and specs,as the case is now split.

Emerald
The service from ollies is fantastic, They just did my case (Cleaning, Bore to 109, piston squirters and galleys).

Send them your cam towers as well, for $140 they will have them spotless
Old 04-10-2013, 12:52 PM
  #42  
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107 with bore will give you a more thicker jug.

109 will slip in but the jugs walls would be thinner

..or did i just got that messed up ?? id go for the one that you have to bore out...i got both sets..

Lemon
Old 04-10-2013, 04:58 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SchnellAuto
107 with bore will give you a more thicker jug.

109 will slip in but the jugs walls would be thinner

..or did i just got that messed up ?? id go for the one that you have to bore out...i got both sets..

Lemon
I think you got it backwards. 109 is bored.

Trophy...I plan on sending everything out and having it cleaned and inspected. I am also considering having things balanced as well. Did you have the case boat tailed?

Thanks,
Emerald
Old 04-10-2013, 05:00 PM
  #44  
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I didn't do any additional machining of the case, I have read a number of posts by experienced guys over on the Pelican that boattailing doesn't necessarily provide any measurable improvements. A number of people also quoted that Porsche doesn't do it even in their RSR's etc, thats good enough for me.
Old 04-10-2013, 06:48 PM
  #45  
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In my mind... When you're talking about ULTIMATE street engine, you gotta bring up ITBs. Sure they're not the best bang for the buck, and yes they certainly add complexity and pretty much necessitate an ECU change, but if we're talking ultimate smiles per hour and instant throttle response shenanigans, you just can't beat em!!!!


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