I was so excited to install the newly arrived T-lock keyless entry in my car today, so I started to remove the six hex bolts holding the passenger seat to get to the necessary wiring. The first five came out with no problem. The sixth gave enough resistance that the hex started to strip. I fitted as wide a flat-head screwdriver in and beat it in place with a hammer to see if that would grip better. When I turned it, it too stripped the bolt more. This bolt is reasonably accessible, but the seat is about three inches above it, impeding access with certain tools (see photo). I'm just honing my mechanical skills and don't have tons of specialty tools. Any thoughts on how I can get it out??

 

No matter what, it's going to be a PITA. You might be able to use a slightly bigger hex and get it out. Or use a cutting tool and cut a slot in it then use a flat bladed screw driver, or cut/grind the head of the bolt off.

Sears also makes extractors for this kind of thing with a reverse type drill bit.

Good luck!

 

Put the other bolts back in to take the load off it,Then hammer/chisel it loose.

 

+1 on the hammer/chisel method. Get the best angle you can with the chisel on the head of the bolt that will make it turn CCW, and give it a stout whack. Repeat. It will eventually start to turn.

These bolts are notoriously soft. You may want to get all new replacements.

 

I NEVER re-use these bolts. Same with the 5mm hex bolts on the fan pulley. Someone once said these things are made of some kind of cheese. That sounds about right to me.

 

I said it because they are made of cheese. I've had to drill out a few of them over the years. Get a drill and a large bit and get to work. The good news is that since they are so soft you can drill them out pretty quickly.

 

Hammer a slightly larger Torx bit into the head... It's worked for me every time.

 

The Torx method has worked for me as well.

 

Thanks guys. I'll try the torx, then the chisel/hammer, then the drilling out if needed. If I have to resort to drilling out, what exactly does that mean? How do you drill out the whole bolt without damaging the threads in the floor?

 

They really mean drill or chisel to remove the head get the seat out and then remove the remaining post..
If you can get it to turn with a chisel which should be pretty easy it will eventually be easy enough to turn the remaining distance by hand ..
A few of these repair on the fly or go arounds under your belt and you'll have some experience under
your belt and have a little more confidence...

 

I have had the same issue. I used a Dremel to cut a slot and then just used the biggest slot screw driver I my toolbox to turn it. There was a guy on eBay selling hardened bolts in a black finish that work as a replacement.

 

Use a drill with a diameter a bit larger than the hex opening. Drill only as far down as the shoulder of the head of the bolt (ie just down to the level of the seat rail). The head will come right off then. Take the seat and rails out over the remaining stud. Then with the extra access you can take the stud out with Vise Grips or external bolt extractors.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/sc...olt-extractors

 

I doubt these bolts are a low grade fastener if they are holding seats in place.

Even if they are a 8.8 grade, the heads don't strip if the bit is fully inserted squarely and of a good fit.

Same for the valve cover or pulley fasteners; they are no softer than any other fastener of the same grade.

 

I agree Alex, its the access and technique that makes it fail, and I find that its worth spending the extra money on good quality allen bits here makes a huge difference. In certain situations (like valve covers, upper bolts that are hard to get to, seat bolts) I know to use my "good" tool (Stahlwile, etc.), which have a better bite and stripping become minimized. Also, hitting it square is important, I have a few that i have ground or otherwise modified for specific access. You also need to make sure the head is clean, if debris has fallen into it (especially on the engine) it makes a bit difference just cleaning it up first.

Cheers,

Mike

 

Exactly.

As much as I'd like to rush and use the tool I sometimes have, if it doesn't fit right (due to accessibility), I'll walk away, buy or order the tool I need and do the job right. At this point, my tool collection is right up there.

Got an extension on the bit, keep it square and use both hands...type of thing helps avoid hours of grief. I also use a drift that fits within the socket head and give the fastener a straight on (when possible) blow with a hammer.

As for those valve cover fasteners, how tight can they be when 84 in.lbf. is what they were initially tightened to.

Anyway, I haven't checked but do those seat bolts have shallow heads. If so, even more reason to be careful.