Why engine or top end rebuild?
#16
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that is not too bad, you will also notice if lots of highway it gets much better.
Why dont you do the leakdown yourself? Its not hard, the gauge is not too expensive, and we can step you though it if you are not totally on-board.
Cheers,
Mike
Why dont you do the leakdown yourself? Its not hard, the gauge is not too expensive, and we can step you though it if you are not totally on-board.
Cheers,
Mike
#17
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I had assumed the kit/guages was expensive and somewhat technical to do. Just found some after a quick online search. Based on all the discussions here of inaccurate and sketchy test results, its a great suggestion. At least I'd learn something in the process, save some money and get a new tool! I think I'll steer clear of Harbor Freight. Amazon $63.
Thanks Mike!
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylin.../dp/B0030EVL60
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinde...ter-94190.html
Thanks Mike!
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylin.../dp/B0030EVL60
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinde...ter-94190.html
#18
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Sounds great! Looking forward to seeing your results. The leak-down testing on a non-Turbo car is pretty easy, the Turbo is a bit more work. You can use either the top or bottom plug so just pick the one that is easiest.
Use the distributor rotor to determine the TDC compression spot for each piston (when the rotor points to the sparkplug for the piston, that piston is close to TDC for it), and the marks on the crankshaft pulley to get it right on TDC for each piston. Then plug in the tester and measure away...
Cheers,
Mike
Use the distributor rotor to determine the TDC compression spot for each piston (when the rotor points to the sparkplug for the piston, that piston is close to TDC for it), and the marks on the crankshaft pulley to get it right on TDC for each piston. Then plug in the tester and measure away...
Cheers,
Mike
#19
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Tom,
I tell people that 800 miles/qt signifies time to fix things properly.
Excessive oil consumption also creates lots of engine deposits which can trigger detonation when hot. The octane rating of oil is rather low so such conditions breed detonation-related issues that include reduced performance.
One can view this indirectly by watching knock counts with a scan tool in hot weather to see if they are excessive for the conditions.
I tell people that 800 miles/qt signifies time to fix things properly.
Excessive oil consumption also creates lots of engine deposits which can trigger detonation when hot. The octane rating of oil is rather low so such conditions breed detonation-related issues that include reduced performance.
One can view this indirectly by watching knock counts with a scan tool in hot weather to see if they are excessive for the conditions.
The consumption on my car dropped by 50% when I switched from Mobil-1 to 300V. There was more than a year's time and more than 10k miles in each control. Have you seen that pattern before, and if so do you have an explanation (or edumacated guess) as to why?
Do you still sell 300V? (And if so do you have 15w-50 in stock?)
Thanks.
#21
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This is an interesting observation and something I can confirm with my 97. Driving the car 2500 miles home across country it used virtually no oil. However, when used primarily for commuting (mix of city and less than high speed highway driving) I use about 1 quart every 1200 miles. Do you have any idea why this is? I'm guessing lower stress and fewer heat cycles with hiway driving but that's just a guess.
Cheers,
Joe
#22
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Dunno? Acceleration vs steady speed? Varied engine loading is likely a factor, plus no warm up/cool downs, or lots of idling with no load.
Its almost a universal constant though - more highway, less oil consumption. Almost proportional to gas mileage...
Cheers,
Mike
Its almost a universal constant though - more highway, less oil consumption. Almost proportional to gas mileage...
Cheers,
Mike
#23
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Steve,
The consumption on my car dropped by 50% when I switched from Mobil-1 to 300V. There was more than a year's time and more than 10k miles in each control. Have you seen that pattern before, and if so do you have an explanation (or edumacated guess) as to why?
Do you still sell 300V? (And if so do you have 15w-50 in stock?)
Thanks.
The consumption on my car dropped by 50% when I switched from Mobil-1 to 300V. There was more than a year's time and more than 10k miles in each control. Have you seen that pattern before, and if so do you have an explanation (or edumacated guess) as to why?
Do you still sell 300V? (And if so do you have 15w-50 in stock?)
Thanks.
Indeed, I do stock 300V in 15w-50 at all times.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#24
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Ok, bit oil debate about to start... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
How does the 300V compare to Mobil V-twin (especially for peak heat resistance like in Turbos?).
Cheers,
Mike
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
How does the 300V compare to Mobil V-twin (especially for peak heat resistance like in Turbos?).
Cheers,
Mike
#25
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I've seen that as well and I attribute that to improved (and more accurate) VI's and improved ring sealing. Back when it was first introduced, the original Mobil 1 15w-50 was decent stuff, the newer formulations, not so much since the days of API-SG and SJ. Motul's 300V is really FAR superior in every way (except price).
Indeed, I do stock 300V in 15w-50 at all times.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Indeed, I do stock 300V in 15w-50 at all times.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
(Don't get me started on the Michelin rep.)
#26
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![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
No comparison at all, really. 300V is FAR superior to any race synthetic that available to the public.
#27
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I hear the very same things from the sales reps that call on us, hawking their wares. The marketing guys are very good at what they do, however they accept no responsibility for any short or long term consequences.
#29
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I think they are both slippery, Mike. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Seriously, you can check the numbers in the Amsoil's A Study of Motorcycle Oils - Second Edition if you wish.
No oil consumption worth talking about running Mobil 1 15W-50.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Seriously, you can check the numbers in the Amsoil's A Study of Motorcycle Oils - Second Edition if you wish.
No oil consumption worth talking about running Mobil 1 15W-50.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)