Vorsicht

I'm about to close up my chain housings. Want to avoid oil leaks in the future. I used threebond 1194 on the large side gaskets per the manual (see gray stuff in pic). I have noticed some rebuilders use Loctite 574 or similar and other do it dry. What to do?

Also, same question for the small gaskets for the spring tensioner covers.

Ed Hughes

A thin coat of Loctite 574 worked fine for me. I pretty much went by Henry Schmidt's (Supertec) list of sealants that is used on his 911 motors. He builds some pretty nice little jewels. This is his list, if you haven't seen it:

Outer case halves perimeter : Threebond 1104

Bearing web surfaces: Loctite 574

#8 Bearing O-Ring: Threebond 1211

Case Thru Bolts: Dow Corning 55 on Green Viton O-Rings

Flywheel Seal: dry

Front pulley Seal: dry

Intermediate Shaft Cover to Case: o-ring Dow 55, gasket style 574

Oil Breather Cover to Case: Loctite 574

Cylinders to Case: Curil T

Cam Towers to Cylinder Heads: Threebond 1104

Cam Chain Housings to Case: gaskets Loctite 574

Cam Chain Housings to Cam Towers: gasket Loctite 574

Cam Chain Housing Cover to Cam Chain Housing: Gasket Loctite574

Gaskets: Thin coat of Loctite 574

The Loctite Hysol is a perfect epoxy for sealing galley plugs and tensioner pins.
On late 3.0 & 3.2 cases it also seals the exposed oil tranfer tube in front of the cooler.

If you can't find 1104 use 1194 and Dow 55 can be replaced with 111

Mike J

I have been using Dow Corning 111 on the rubber donuts and gaskets - works like a charm and no leaks. I have not used any other sealant om that area. My longest test case is one I did about 10 years ago, with 45,000 miles on the engine, and its still dry except for one spot with a slight oily stain.

However, Henry is pretty good, although he has some strong opinions which I do not totally agree with. LOL!

Video the startup - its always fun to see it start!

Cheers,

Mike

Ed Hughes

No doubt about that!!

IXLR8

I don't see them being any different than the OEM valve cover rubber seals that I installed dry with the exception of a light coat of oil on the cam tower surface to let the seals "walk" as I tightened down the covers. Three years later, they are still bone dry and that is with using OEM valve covers.

Mike J

The 111 acts like lube just like the oil you are using - its not an adhesive. I have seen some engines where the idiots used silicon seal on the valve gasket covers - with gobs of squeeze out inside... cripes!

IXLR8

I noticed that Mike. I just checked the DC PDF on the product. I have used DC High Vacuum Grease (a silicone grease) in the past in similar cases. I used DC High Vacuum Grease on my oil filter seals to prevent sticking upon removal.

I have a tube of DC Molykote 55 which I would probably use now. It is for O-rings and rubber seals and contains a swelling agent (no, don't use it for that ).

Vorsicht

OK, here is my plan:

1194 on side gaskets (already done).
574 on spring gaskets
111 on the gasket itself (doesn't this help keep rubber from hardening?)
574 on cover/housing

MarkD

Good plan Peter

more than one way to skin a Porsche gasket...
Curil-T also works well on VC and timing cover gaskets (just a thin smear)

Vorsicht

Thanks Mark. One of these days I'm gonna have to come out and drop by your shop!