doberdog

I like my FSD and M030, I especially like the price.

crw

The next step is to remove the ABS connection to the strut tower.

There is the white ABS sensor (in a black case), brown wire to the ABS counter (held by a white clip), and an addtional black clip that holds the wire that feeds the ABS sensor - all shown below.

When re-aattaching to the new tower I will need to buy new clips since they are brittle.


The ABS senser case opens pretty easily. The white clip is pried off the tower. The other black clip is a pincher type that is pried open easily.







The next step is to remove the brake clips that secure the brake line to the tower. It takes ALOT of force to pull this clip upward. Locking pliers to the trick. Put a rag over the top of the plier so that if it slips off the brake clip, it wont hit the inner metal fender. Use a screw driver and pry it from the bottom to get it started upward.





I was met with 2 suprises next.

Sometime in the previous 16 years - someone had remove the brake line from the strut tower.

Brake service?

Replacement of struts?


I know this for 2 reasons:

1. A notch (non factory) has been cut in the strut tower (see photo)
2. Who ever cut the notch carelessly shredded the mini rubber boots on what I believe are connectors from the strut tower to the control arms (correct me if I am wrong). These contain grease inside and appear to be sealed units (not anymore).

A few questions:

1. Are these the original Monroe struts?
2. Replacment Monroes?
3. What is involved to fix the damaged rubber boots. It looks like they are part of a 1 piece unit.

I wonder if the previos owners ever knew?

The car had 2 PPIs in 18 months and this was never picked up.







I believe that the area that is damaged is the rubber covering of the upper part of the front drop link - correct?

I guess I am looking a new drop links?

The rubber on the CV joints etc. is pristine and like new.

May be a good time to do an exchange and replace the front control arm busings with Walrods while I am at it?

Pags993

Is this the cheapest option re upgrading from stock Monroes and lowering from SUV to ROW height? Hope i got all the terms right. I am looking for the cheapest option as i have zero plans for track use and i want a comfortable yet responsive ride.

Thanks!

Ed Hughes

Those are your droplinks-and it isn't a bad idea to replace them with new shocks. Cutting the notches when pulling shocks is probably pretty common-doing it so haphazardly, isn't.

crw

My goal of suspension choice was:

1. Lower height
2. Comfortable and smooth ride

No being a track person - PSS10, KW and other seemed overkill for what I was looking for.

When I did my research, it seems the the Koni FSD/ROW30 combo fit the best for me.

doberdog

I would suggest that this is the most cost effective way to go if you want a lowered ride and responsive street ride. For about $1500 for springs and shocks, it is pretty good value. If you want a smooth ride, get the M033 springs, for a slightly sportier ride get the M030 springs. You might also want to look into strut mounts, that connect the car to the shock, plus new control arm bushings. This will provide an almost new front end and perfect steering feel.

1pcarnut

Been on the fence with either PSS10s or the Konis so will be interested to see how this turns out.

martyp

Subscribed as well. My factory struts are shot - at least one is oil-free

I've been stuck in analysis-paralysis for a while now.

What tool are you planning on using for the front tops? I received a MetalNerd 21/22mm reversible unit for Christmas from my wife, so just curious - I've read some posts indicating no tool is needed . . .

Coyote

Ditto here! I want a nice, planted sporty ride for aggresive canyon carving but never plan to track my car. I THINK PSS10 is overkill- however, I don't want to undershoot it either and end up with something too soft.
Subscribed and anxious for your feedback!

rlme36

A o2 sensor socket can also be used when snugging down the new top nut, they are 7/8 but the math works =-)

I did this recently going with the bilsteins and h&r's from Gert. great guy and price. didn't much care for the duty pmt for importing the parts, but what are you going to do. Do the front control arm bushings. i choose the elephant racing version, take your pick.

crw

I don't know why image shack scrubed some of my photos in the initial post?

I have since fixxed it (hosting error on my part - sorry).

Here is today's progess.

When the previous mechanic had cut the tabs holding the brake lines to the strut tower, he must have hammered them down afterwards.

The lines did not slide out. This is very tough steel. I actually had to cut them apart to get the brake lines out. There is a limited space here and you have to be careful not to let the diamond wheel slip since there are lot's of structures (brake lines and wires etc.) that can be easily be damaged.



The next step is to loosen the strut tower at its top (inside the bonnet). This requires a 21mm Hazat socket (pictured). When I looked on line for 1 of these, places that have them in stock want anywhere from $60 to $110/socket.

I found mine on EBAY. BMW strut sockets do the trick. I found a set of 19mm, 21mm, and 22mm (which is the Koni nut size) for $40 total.



Get a Hazat equivalent tool at a great price.

This included the 21mm needed for the stock strut and the 22mm which in needed for the KONI.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170890243436...#ht_5351wt_917



You need a 7mm allen wrench to go inside the socket. This size is not common and somewhat hard to find. I found one on EBAY for $3.



Here is a photo of the combination together - use a blanket to protect your fender. This worked like a charm to loosen the strut at the top.



Enough for today, time to scoop poop in the snow before it sinks down only to be found in the spring:

crw

Todays progess:

Sorry about the orientation of this picture (rotate in backwards 90 in your mind).

Remove the top nut on for the bottom part of the strut (10mm allen socket):



Remove the bottom nut (18mm socket) - breaker bar, impact gun will help



You'll be left with 2 bolts and the bracket that they screw into on the other side of the bottom part of the strut (bad and tag).



Remove all of the nuts from the top of the shock tower (except the last one, just leave it loose).

Remember to cover you fender to avoid paint damage from things like a dropped tool.



Then supporting the strut tower in you hand, take off the last nut and from below gradually remove the tower from the wheel well (while avoiding any wires or hard lines.

Here is the strut removed:



Here is the space (minus the strut).



Time to clean this area up.

Also, this has me wondering? While I am there should I swap out the control arms? Chris Walrod does an exchange (with new bushings). Tough job to do that? The nuts look big. Also. Torque settings?

How hard is it to swap out the control arms?



Any good links?

Vandit

I'm actually currently in the middle of all this on my 964 (w/ Bilstein HD & H&R reds), but i'm doing Powerflex bushings on the arms instead of Walrod (i'm sure they're both great, so NBD).

The nut/bolts on the arms are 19mm and they're pretty tight, but my 18" breaker bar and some effort got them loose. I still haven't dropped them from the car tho, just cracked the bolts loose.

On removing the spindle/ball joint from the arm, I decided to leave the balljoint untouched, and instead separated the complete brake rotor/spindle/ball joint assembly from the arm as one unit (remove the eccentric and remove the nut on the arm stud).

I was going to ask you if there's any trick to transferring the plastic hardware from the OEM strut to your new struts? I still haven't done that yet.

Ed Hughes

Yes, you are probably due for control arm bushings. Most who have updated shocks/springs due them at the same time. To not do them, and have some noticeable ill effects after paying for alignment, would be painful, IMO.

bcameron59

I'm in the middle of this too - Koni FSD's and M030 springs & ARBs on my '96 C4, which has 100+ miles and was ready for some serious refurb. Thus I'm experiencing a severe case of "while you're in there"-itis and found the following needed replacing and/or servicing:

• rear drop links & toe control arms (both with Taretts)
• front drop links (Sunset)
• front control arm bushings (Walrod) and ball joints
• DIY zinc electroplated front control arm hardware
• 1 rear & 2 front axles (boots torn and/or CV joints binding)
• leaking seals in front transfer case
• front shock top mounts didn't rotate smoothly; removed seals, cleaned & re-lubed - now like new!

FWIW I didn't find the front control arm bushing replacement too difficult. Be sure to check all ball joint boots including rear control arms (one of my drop links was damaged like yours). You got lucky finding those open socket wrenches, I had to buy a couple and create openings with my bench grinder.

Found several helpful sources, especially this forum, but also including DIY Suspension Install for Dummies (search on this forum) and some good articles from Jackal's Forge (google it). I also learned that the shop manuals advise replacing numerous hardware pieces, eg cage nuts on the front shock mounts to hub carrier etc so you might want to consider in your own project.

Good luck and I'll watch this thread in case one of us can help the other!

some parting pics: