random orbital time!
12-18-2012, 11:32 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
random orbital time!
hey i hinted to the wife for a random orbital buffer from Griot's for Christmas. i know they can be damaging if used wrongly, but thought i'd see if you all had any pearls of wisdom... (before swine?)
12-18-2012, 11:52 AM
#3
Race Director
pretty much the only way you are gonna damage your paint with an orbital is if you drop it on the car accidentally.
I pushed down on mine with almost all my weight, held it in one spot for a while, and still not a hint of paint damage.
the only thing to note, and if this is new and interesting, perhaps detailing is not for you, is not to spend a lot of time polishing the absolute edge of panels.
its easy and works fairly well with the right products/technique
I pushed down on mine with almost all my weight, held it in one spot for a while, and still not a hint of paint damage.
the only thing to note, and if this is new and interesting, perhaps detailing is not for you, is not to spend a lot of time polishing the absolute edge of panels.
its easy and works fairly well with the right products/technique
12-18-2012, 12:16 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
I was asking Santa for the same. I was set to get the Meguiar's DA, but did a search on local Craigslist and found an almost new Flex 3401 being sold. Saved about $100 over new. Handed it to the wife who will give it to me on Christmas. Don't tell her I know what it is :-D
Have a friend who bought the Flex 3403 Lightweight rotary and he says that he has not come close to burning or damaging the paint. The DA should be a safe bet.
Have a friend who bought the Flex 3403 Lightweight rotary and he says that he has not come close to burning or damaging the paint. The DA should be a safe bet.
12-18-2012, 01:24 PM
#6
Race Car
I agree with Quad's comments. And a few hours with the orbital and a few different grades of polish can really transform a car's look and finish.
While I bought a kit (including Orbital) from Griots a couple of years ago, I don't really like their polishes. I find them hard to remove after polishing. Maybe other brands are easier to use. But the results are good. And stay away from Griots wax/sealant for the same reasons. Rejex is good stuff. Everyone has their own favorites.
While I bought a kit (including Orbital) from Griots a couple of years ago, I don't really like their polishes. I find them hard to remove after polishing. Maybe other brands are easier to use. But the results are good. And stay away from Griots wax/sealant for the same reasons. Rejex is good stuff. Everyone has their own favorites.
12-18-2012, 02:11 PM
#7
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I have been using Porter Cable random orbitals for woodworking in the shop for decades - think I bought my first one 22 years ago. Anyways, the beauty for woodwork is that it does not leave visible scratches on the wood, even at coarse grits.
Enter the world of detailing - and it turns out the old Porter Cable is the same as the random orbital polisher that all the other guys are using. So I change the base pad, buy some Lake Country pads and a few bottles of Menzerna, and away I go - and it works like a charm.
Every time you polish you are reducing the thickness of your clear coat, so its best to work with the least agressive polish first and then go to more agressive if needed. Watch edges and seams where the clear is likely thinner - its not impossible to damage the paint, but you need to try pretty hard. Be careful around rubber trim, its easy to get the polish underneath the trim and its harder to wipe off, especially if you let it dry out. Avoid the felt around the sunroof, its hard to clean afterwards. you can always use a indelible marker to make it black again.
A good tip - mix a spray bottle of 50% isopropyl alcohol and water, and use it as a wiping spray when the polishing is finished. It really removes the polish off the paint and gives you a good view of the polish state.
I really like the Menzerna's line of polishes - really works well and leaves little residue, which is easily cleaned with the isopropyl spray.
The best time is the first polish on a car you have bought that has not been detailed for a while, if ever. My turbo was like that, the paint is good but not taken care of, that first polish really made a big difference, and so it was quite fun to do.
Cheers,
Mike
Enter the world of detailing - and it turns out the old Porter Cable is the same as the random orbital polisher that all the other guys are using. So I change the base pad, buy some Lake Country pads and a few bottles of Menzerna, and away I go - and it works like a charm.
Every time you polish you are reducing the thickness of your clear coat, so its best to work with the least agressive polish first and then go to more agressive if needed. Watch edges and seams where the clear is likely thinner - its not impossible to damage the paint, but you need to try pretty hard. Be careful around rubber trim, its easy to get the polish underneath the trim and its harder to wipe off, especially if you let it dry out. Avoid the felt around the sunroof, its hard to clean afterwards. you can always use a indelible marker to make it black again.
A good tip - mix a spray bottle of 50% isopropyl alcohol and water, and use it as a wiping spray when the polishing is finished. It really removes the polish off the paint and gives you a good view of the polish state.
I really like the Menzerna's line of polishes - really works well and leaves little residue, which is easily cleaned with the isopropyl spray.
The best time is the first polish on a car you have bought that has not been detailed for a while, if ever. My turbo was like that, the paint is good but not taken care of, that first polish really made a big difference, and so it was quite fun to do.
Cheers,
Mike
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12-18-2012, 02:22 PM
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12-18-2012, 02:49 PM
#9
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12-18-2012, 03:05 PM
#10
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I went to Amazon to look up Menzerna. So many to choose from. Which polish and protectant do you recommend? Thanks
I have been using Porter Cable random orbitals for woodworking in the shop for decades - think I bought my first one 22 years ago. Anyways, the beauty for woodwork is that it does not leave visible scratches on the wood, even at coarse grits.
Enter the world of detailing - and it turns out the old Porter Cable is the same as the random orbital polisher that all the other guys are using. So I change the base pad, buy some Lake Country pads and a few bottles of Menzerna, and away I go - and it works like a charm.
Every time you polish you are reducing the thickness of your clear coat, so its best to work with the least agressive polish first and then go to more agressive if needed. Watch edges and seams where the clear is likely thinner - its not impossible to damage the paint, but you need to try pretty hard. Be careful around rubber trim, its easy to get the polish underneath the trim and its harder to wipe off, especially if you let it dry out. Avoid the felt around the sunroof, its hard to clean afterwards. you can always use a indelible marker to make it black again.
A good tip - mix a spray bottle of 50% isopropyl alcohol and water, and use it as a wiping spray when the polishing is finished. It really removes the polish off the paint and gives you a good view of the polish state.
I really like the Menzerna's line of polishes - really works well and leaves little residue, which is easily cleaned with the isopropyl spray.
The best time is the first polish on a car you have bought that has not been detailed for a while, if ever. My turbo was like that, the paint is good but not taken care of, that first polish really made a big difference, and so it was quite fun to do.
Cheers,
Mike
Enter the world of detailing - and it turns out the old Porter Cable is the same as the random orbital polisher that all the other guys are using. So I change the base pad, buy some Lake Country pads and a few bottles of Menzerna, and away I go - and it works like a charm.
Every time you polish you are reducing the thickness of your clear coat, so its best to work with the least agressive polish first and then go to more agressive if needed. Watch edges and seams where the clear is likely thinner - its not impossible to damage the paint, but you need to try pretty hard. Be careful around rubber trim, its easy to get the polish underneath the trim and its harder to wipe off, especially if you let it dry out. Avoid the felt around the sunroof, its hard to clean afterwards. you can always use a indelible marker to make it black again.
A good tip - mix a spray bottle of 50% isopropyl alcohol and water, and use it as a wiping spray when the polishing is finished. It really removes the polish off the paint and gives you a good view of the polish state.
I really like the Menzerna's line of polishes - really works well and leaves little residue, which is easily cleaned with the isopropyl spray.
The best time is the first polish on a car you have bought that has not been detailed for a while, if ever. My turbo was like that, the paint is good but not taken care of, that first polish really made a big difference, and so it was quite fun to do.
Cheers,
Mike
12-18-2012, 03:28 PM
#11
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I get my stuff from Autogeek, and use:
- Lake Country Pads - Yellow for rougher spots, White for the majority of my polishing
- Menzerna Power Finish PO-203 . I also have some Menzerna Ultra-finishing compound, but have not used much of it, the Power Finish does such a nice job that I rarely move to the the next stage (which would be the Ultra-finishing compound). They also seem to have some new polishes (or rebadged ones).
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-polish-po203.html
I currently use Zaino for the "wax", but there are many other choices. Menzerna has a sealer which is supposed to be quite good as well.
There are endless discussions and threads on this stuff, and everyone will have a different opinion - I like this stuff and it works for me, but i have not spent a lot of time trying all the other options either.
Cheers,
Mike
- Lake Country Pads - Yellow for rougher spots, White for the majority of my polishing
- Menzerna Power Finish PO-203 . I also have some Menzerna Ultra-finishing compound, but have not used much of it, the Power Finish does such a nice job that I rarely move to the the next stage (which would be the Ultra-finishing compound). They also seem to have some new polishes (or rebadged ones).
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-polish-po203.html
I currently use Zaino for the "wax", but there are many other choices. Menzerna has a sealer which is supposed to be quite good as well.
There are endless discussions and threads on this stuff, and everyone will have a different opinion - I like this stuff and it works for me, but i have not spent a lot of time trying all the other options either.
Cheers,
Mike
12-18-2012, 03:57 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
+1 on lake country pads and Menzerna. Love them both. I buy mine from Glistening Perfection. Moe is the owner of the company and knows his stuff. He has posted a some really nice pictures and videos of his work. http://glisteningperfection.com/
12-18-2012, 04:18 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Same on both.
I like the selection at Autogeek and the choice of product sizes available.
As for the Lake Country pads, their Pad Application Guide cleared up any confusion when I started. I bought their pad range from Green to Gold, this based on nearly perfect paint.
I like the selection at Autogeek and the choice of product sizes available.
As for the Lake Country pads, their Pad Application Guide cleared up any confusion when I started. I bought their pad range from Green to Gold, this based on nearly perfect paint.
12-18-2012, 04:49 PM
#14
Racer
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Hi
I used a Clean Your Car 850w polisher with Menzerna Super Finish, no swirl marks, the paint looked perfect. Actually the paint looked so good, all you could see was the reflection.
The judge at the concourse made comment I had the best paint at the event.
It took 6 days to get it right, O yes it is a gloss black car.
Two panels a day, yes, Super Finish is a polish and I used it to get some deeper scratches out, so it took a little longer but it was worth it.
I used Mequiars Ultimate Wax Paste for the finish, went on so easy and just buffed it off, what a fantastic finish and lasts.
Looked at waxes and went for the Mequiars, after looking at what it available in finishing products and the pricing, I think there is a lot of snake oil out there.
I know the above comment is controversial, but $2,500.00 for a wax, and it does not apply it's self and buff it's self off.......
I did manage to go through the edge of the petrol flap, a quick trip to the panel shop and all was good again. Also I did manage to burn the paint on the fender up near the front window, I was working the polisher quite hard and for quite a long time in the one spot. I let the paint cool and just buffed the mark out.
I would go for the higher wattage polisher, it has more power and will not have to work as hard.
I used a Clean Your Car 850w polisher with Menzerna Super Finish, no swirl marks, the paint looked perfect. Actually the paint looked so good, all you could see was the reflection.
The judge at the concourse made comment I had the best paint at the event.
It took 6 days to get it right, O yes it is a gloss black car.
Two panels a day, yes, Super Finish is a polish and I used it to get some deeper scratches out, so it took a little longer but it was worth it.
I used Mequiars Ultimate Wax Paste for the finish, went on so easy and just buffed it off, what a fantastic finish and lasts.
Looked at waxes and went for the Mequiars, after looking at what it available in finishing products and the pricing, I think there is a lot of snake oil out there.
I know the above comment is controversial, but $2,500.00 for a wax, and it does not apply it's self and buff it's self off.......
I did manage to go through the edge of the petrol flap, a quick trip to the panel shop and all was good again. Also I did manage to burn the paint on the fender up near the front window, I was working the polisher quite hard and for quite a long time in the one spot. I let the paint cool and just buffed the mark out.
I would go for the higher wattage polisher, it has more power and will not have to work as hard.
Last edited by Neil Perry; 12-18-2012 at 05:00 PM. Reason: update
12-18-2012, 05:10 PM
#15
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Sounds like you are really working that paint, especially if you burned it or if you are going deep enough to take out deeper scratches - if the polish is still active and acting as a lubricant not sure how you would do that.
The clear coat is not that thick, so I would caution to really go for town and over-polishing - > I need to get a good paint gauge to backup what I am thinking. The good ones are pricey, not sure if the cheaper ones are worth it.
This is one example good thread on polishing
https://rennlist.com/forums/concours...is-100-um.html
I think most cars have 1.5-3.0 mils of clear. Some have less some have more. Most clears also contain uv inhibitors in the top .5 mils. The problem with paint meters is most cannot distinguish between the base coats and clear, so its a delta or total thickness you want to watch out for.
Cheers,
Mike
The clear coat is not that thick, so I would caution to really go for town and over-polishing - > I need to get a good paint gauge to backup what I am thinking. The good ones are pricey, not sure if the cheaper ones are worth it.
This is one example good thread on polishing
https://rennlist.com/forums/concours...is-100-um.html
I think most cars have 1.5-3.0 mils of clear. Some have less some have more. Most clears also contain uv inhibitors in the top .5 mils. The problem with paint meters is most cannot distinguish between the base coats and clear, so its a delta or total thickness you want to watch out for.
Cheers,
Mike