Clutch DIY - Feasible?
12-10-2012, 01:51 PM
#31
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I would DIY. I have 7 and 8 yearolds and it isnt a big deal....I did have my wife watch them for the day though 
I also think you should drop the engine and trans together. They can be done seperately but there are tricks and I wouldnt suggest it for the first time. I got up at 7am on a Sat, made a pot of coffee and had the motor and trans out by 9ish. Changed the clutch/FW and plugs etc and had it back in the car by mid afternoon. Not that bad of a job if you are mechanically inclined think it through. That said, previously I had pulled other 911 motors just not a 993 before. Its intimidating until you get rolling then its no big deal. Go for it. Plus you have the support of RL if you get stuck. You could easily make a post and someone would talk you through it. Just my .02
I also think you should drop the engine and trans together. They can be done seperately but there are tricks and I wouldnt suggest it for the first time. I got up at 7am on a Sat, made a pot of coffee and had the motor and trans out by 9ish. Changed the clutch/FW and plugs etc and had it back in the car by mid afternoon. Not that bad of a job if you are mechanically inclined think it through. That said, previously I had pulled other 911 motors just not a 993 before. Its intimidating until you get rolling then its no big deal. Go for it. Plus you have the support of RL if you get stuck. You could easily make a post and someone would talk you through it. Just my .02No way...
So you start at 7:00 a.m. (minus coffee making time) and you're finished let's say by 4:00 p.m. so that's - what - 9 hours only to do the whole thing?!
Are you for hire?
12-10-2012, 02:03 PM
#32
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It may have been closer to 5 or 6, I honestly dont remember. That said, this isnt the first car I have worked on. And yes, if you were here I would gladly help you. It really isnt as big of a deal as people make out of it. Rear bumper cover, electrical snap connecters, the oil lines, shifter, front driveshaft, the inboard axle bolts, shifter, engine mounts and down it comes. Seperating the engine and trans and the damn TOB arm are the worst for me.
12-10-2012, 02:06 PM
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[QUOTE=Holytin;10061637]No way...
QUOTE]
That may be true for you to do it. How can you know how long it takes when you have never done it nor do you know what I have done. I have been working on my own cars and building racecars for 20 years. Dropping the engine on a 993 isnt that big of a deal IMHO.
QUOTE]
That may be true for you to do it. How can you know how long it takes when you have never done it nor do you know what I have done. I have been working on my own cars and building racecars for 20 years. Dropping the engine on a 993 isnt that big of a deal IMHO.
12-10-2012, 02:55 PM
#34
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I remember someone saying he could drop the engine in an hour..maybe it was George..
Actually I just looked at the directions, changing the plugs might be harder..lol
Caution:
When the vehicle is placed back on its
wheels, the rear crossmember and both steering
arms 2 should by all means be refitted to
provide sufficient rigidity.
Actually I just looked at the directions, changing the plugs might be harder..lol
Caution:
When the vehicle is placed back on its
wheels, the rear crossmember and both steering
arms 2 should by all means be refitted to
provide sufficient rigidity.
12-10-2012, 10:17 PM
#35
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This is a big plus. RL and Pelican have helped me through many a job.
12-10-2012, 10:29 PM
#36
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It may have been closer to 5 or 6, I honestly dont remember. That said, this isnt the first car I have worked on. And yes, if you were here I would gladly help you. It really isnt as big of a deal as people make out of it. Rear bumper cover, electrical snap connecters, the oil lines, shifter, front driveshaft, the inboard axle bolts, shifter, engine mounts and down it comes. Seperating the engine and trans and the damn TOB arm are the worst for me.
Cannot be much worse than my 924s so I'll definitively give it a try.
Thanks!
12-11-2012, 12:43 AM
#37
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Made my day.
12-11-2012, 07:49 AM
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12-11-2012, 09:13 AM
#39
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Go for it!
I found myself in the same position and decided to DIY - what could go wrong...
Dropping the transmission is very straightforward, you can do it off of jackstands, and you learn a lot along the way.
My DIY is on Rennlist somewhere, lots of pics, so take a look and see if this adventure is for you.
As to whether or not you will save a bunch of money - my guess is labor would fall in the $1200 to $1800, about the cost of the new LWF set up.
Best of luck,
Neil
I found myself in the same position and decided to DIY - what could go wrong...
Dropping the transmission is very straightforward, you can do it off of jackstands, and you learn a lot along the way.
My DIY is on Rennlist somewhere, lots of pics, so take a look and see if this adventure is for you.
As to whether or not you will save a bunch of money - my guess is labor would fall in the $1200 to $1800, about the cost of the new LWF set up.
Best of luck,
Neil
12-11-2012, 10:33 AM
#40
Search for "Engine Removal" by Rennlist member "Toga". He chronicled his engine removal process in several phases complete with detailed pictures and step by step instructions. His stuff, along with nsully's material, provided the basis for me tackling removing my engine over 5 years ago. It's not that hard to do.
12-12-2012, 09:54 PM
#41
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OK - looks like I'm going for it. I don't see why not - having all this support here!
I'd like to put a to-do list together while everything is out and maybe you guys can help me with your input. To those 993 geeks that can take an engine apart while half asleep; I'm not planning on doing any engine work that requires re-assembly after an engine overhaul. Replacing the rear main shaft seal and some gaskets is not a big deal but the rest - we'll leave that to the specialist...
So here is the project scope:
- clutch and single mass flywheel to help the engine to rev up faster. Which clutch/flywheel?
- I'll keep the transmission but will have it reworked according to G50/21 specs or another gear ratio that is favorable to me to bring this car to live. Already talked to Albert Motorsports in Germany - they have all parts required on hand. Maybe not the least expensive option but at least I know the transmission is OK with a warranty. Alternatively, to save on S&H I have it rebuild here in the US. Recommendations? Is the transmission matched to the VIN#? That would be another advantage to keep my transmission
- Motor mounts - need new ones anyway. Which ones? RS?
- Engine work: rear main shaft seal, gaskets. Which ones? I remember valve cover gaskets/cam tower gaskets but I'm not sure. SAE ports (think there was DIY to flush the ports and to replace the check valve)
- Last but not least install some black coated Fister Stage II's - Darin should have them ready early in Jan. of 2013
Don't think the list is complete yet so please feel free to make recommendations. Tools should not be a problem but should there be a specialty tool required please let me know. How far up do I have to get the car to be able to pull everything out from under? Safety - I'm a little concerned about the jack stands with the car up that high.
Thanks!
I'd like to put a to-do list together while everything is out and maybe you guys can help me with your input. To those 993 geeks that can take an engine apart while half asleep; I'm not planning on doing any engine work that requires re-assembly after an engine overhaul. Replacing the rear main shaft seal and some gaskets is not a big deal but the rest - we'll leave that to the specialist...
So here is the project scope:
- clutch and single mass flywheel to help the engine to rev up faster. Which clutch/flywheel?
- I'll keep the transmission but will have it reworked according to G50/21 specs or another gear ratio that is favorable to me to bring this car to live. Already talked to Albert Motorsports in Germany - they have all parts required on hand. Maybe not the least expensive option but at least I know the transmission is OK with a warranty. Alternatively, to save on S&H I have it rebuild here in the US. Recommendations? Is the transmission matched to the VIN#? That would be another advantage to keep my transmission
- Motor mounts - need new ones anyway. Which ones? RS?
- Engine work: rear main shaft seal, gaskets. Which ones? I remember valve cover gaskets/cam tower gaskets but I'm not sure. SAE ports (think there was DIY to flush the ports and to replace the check valve)
- Last but not least install some black coated Fister Stage II's - Darin should have them ready early in Jan. of 2013
Don't think the list is complete yet so please feel free to make recommendations. Tools should not be a problem but should there be a specialty tool required please let me know. How far up do I have to get the car to be able to pull everything out from under? Safety - I'm a little concerned about the jack stands with the car up that high.
Thanks!
01-12-2013, 11:44 AM
#44
Rennlist Member
I have done this a couple of times on a 4 post lift using a tall tranny jack that I borrowed. You just need to tilt the whole assembly using a jack under the engine to control things. I suppose it is more difficult to get at the cross shaft and slave this way but very doable.
I have a 4-post life in my garage. But I figured it wouldn't help too much since the runways and rear crossbar seem to get in the way. Is it really easier to use a 4-post lift vs just jack stands to drop motor and tranny together? I'm debating what I need since I think I have bad flywheel I need to replace on my 1996.
Marc G.
