Bill Lynch

In order to more easily get to the socket head cap screws for the valve cover gasket R&R I pulled the heat exchanger. Pretty simple stuff. The down side is somehow I managed to cross thread one of the studs during reassembly.

I have it all apart now and the threads on one of the studs are really buggered. From what I have been able to find, pulling the stud shouldn't be a real issue (it is still completely in tact but not repairable by a die). I'm trying to confirm the part number and locate a source other than a dealer.

I believe the part number is 999.062.007.02 This is an M8 thread with a 1.25 pitch and is 22 mm long. I've done the on-line search to locate a replacement part but not seeming to have any luck. Anyone out there bought these previously?

IXLR8

TIP for the future. If you couldn't get a good start due to rusty threads, always run an adjustable die over the existing threads to clean them up first. Adjust the die so that it is a fit on the loose side just to clean-up the threads.

They can snap if they've been in there for a long time and that is even a harder fix, engine in. I used a stud remover that looks like a 3-jaw chuck of a drill and set the impact gun on very low and let the vibration/impacts loosen the studs. Use lots of heat and fluids such as PB Blaster or Kroil.

Use the Auto Atlanta site to look part numbers up. According to their site, the number has changed. Available at the Porsche dealer.

Check out the Automotive Fasteners site for metric studs. Note the different class fit for the end that screws into the head.

Vorsicht

You can get parts at Sunset Porsche in Oregon (800.346.0182 ), www.pelicanparts.com or www.EBSracing.com (send an email to troy@ebsracing.com and he will reply with a quote within 24 hours - no affiliation, just a satisfied customer). All three have good pricing.

911PERVY

This is the part

http://www.type911shop.co.uk/shop/ar...6aid%3D5230%26

The 22mm size quoted on PET is a little misleading as this is the ammount showing after install

IXLR8

Which is the way metric double end studs are measured. See attachment in post #2.

Vorsicht

911Pervy & IXLR8: Big thumbs up for you guys!

May I thank you both for solving a mystery for me. I had NO IDEA that was how the studs are measured. I have been trying to figure out what part number to get for a case stud - one of the circumreferential ones on the bottom of the case. I measured the distance for the entire length of the stud. It came to about 48mm. So I look up in the PET and see there is one there - m8-48mm. But something doesn't look right (the PET is unclear on this page as to what stud goes where). Now, thanks to you two I realize the correct part is: 90006010401 (BM8-32mm).

Vorsicht

Bill, In an odd twist of fate I actually have a brand new bm8x22 stud, part number 999-062-007-02-M260. If you PM me with your address I will drop it in the mail to you, NC.

Anyone know why this part was superceded?

IXLR8

Just a guess...commonality. Maybe they are trying to reduce the number of similar parts.

I hope it is still the correct part. Those studs should have a slightly tighter fit (class) on the end that goes into the head. Getting similar ones at the local fastener shop will not have that feature.

911PERVY

They should look like the ones on the link I posted, I got some last week and they were spot on. The have loctite on them

Mike J

Removing these gets me nervous every time - as Alex said, they tend to snap, likely because they have gone through a lot of heat cycles, not sure. Definitely get the right tool that holds the stud really well, and best of luck! Definitely report back the results.

cheers,

Mike

Bill Lynch

I want to say thanks to all of you who provided tips, warnings and technical data. After sitting on blocks for the better part of a week, I got back to her again today. Taking some advice, I heated the block around the stud and got it good and warm. I then used some ice water in a cup to drop the temp of the stud to get a little differential cooling and contraction. I then used a set of vice grips and gently applied some torque and out it came.

Now if I can just get the valve cover to quit leaking - oh well more reading, more playing.

Thanks again.

Vorsicht - Thank you for the offer, I will send you a PM as soon as I learn how - looks like a bit of reading in the FAQ area is due.

Bill
Silver 98 993 Cab, 59k miles

IXLR8

Bill, that fix is the easy.

All you need are new OEM valve cover seals, and if the ones in your car are the originals, you'll want to replace both the upper and lower valve cover seals. There are 6 upper and 2 lower rubber seals.

Optional:
If your valve cover fasteners are rusty, you might want to replace all 38 of them as well.

If the aluminum bushings in the valve covers look tarnished, they can easily be cleaned up with some wet-sandpaper and a tool I made. Further info on this link.