Heard about your site, wanted to check it out. You all seem like the guys to talk to. I've Been looking for awhile and narrowed it down to two...or three...I think.

1. 1996 blk/blk 92K miles bone stock 9/10 condition 31K plus tax lic etc. from a dealer here in SoCal.

2. 1995 blk/blk/tan 78K miles light mods (ie exhaust, suspension, turbo front bumper, wheel and shifter from a 996). Mods are about 8 yrs old. 30K from a private party. Party and carfax both disclose that this car was in a minor accident and the airbag was deployed, this was when the mods were made. I looked around and saw no visible signs that anything had ever happened, also very clean 9/10 inside and out.

3. 1997 C2S silver/blk 110K miles 36K from a private party. Big downside is the interior is wasted. cracked dash in several spots. ripped seats, wasted carpets, mats, shifer,ebrake...seriously everything. The owner showed no pride of ownership. Exterior is 9/10 on a re-spray.

I have not moved forward with a PPI on any of them yet, but know that it is hightly recommended. I also know that I will not be happy with the stock condition of the dealership car so I will be sinking cash into the mods that I like so much on the private party car.
Questions are:
1.Do these prices seem fair?
2.What is the lifespan on suspension and exhaust?
3.Will I be replacing these things no matter which one I go with?
4.Be fine with the mods done on the private party ride and upgrade as needed when cash is available?
5.What would you do?

Thank you in advance
posted in the turbo area also by mistake sorry. What can I say, I'm new

 

I vote for number 2! but don't give up - if one of these doesn't work there are always others. the prices on 1 & 2 seem reasonable, the C2S is just bad news. runaway from that one... the suspension and exhaust mods should last for many miles... that seems like the best value not knowing anything else. just my 2 cents!!! good luck

 

Number two seems okay but anytime an airbag goes off I'm leary as to the type of accident. If you pursue this one make sure you take it in for a very throuough PPI (pre-purchase inspection) with a Porsche expert.

Otherwise...keep looking. There are deals out there and make sure you buy the one you really want instead of settling. Good luck!

 

#3 sounds like a trainwreck. Run away. Overpriced and a mess to fix.

#2 sounds better but the accident is a minus. Key here is what do you think of the tan interior and do you want those specific mods that it has. If you like tan and those particular mods, that's the car to focus more on.

If your answer is no,

#1.

I also would be patient. Now that you've found this site, I can tell you that some of the best 993s you can find are here on the RL classifieds. Sure wouldn't hurt to pay the $17 to become a member and you'll learn much very quickly if you want.

Smart to get a PPI no matter what. I cannot emphasize that too strongly.

Good luck with everything.

 

I say wait

 

^^^ What he said ^^^

 

Keep looking and take some time to do some homework on this site. Lots of good info here.

 

I would wait. #2 looks okay but the negative history is an issue. May not be an issue to you now but it will be when you go to sell it. As to #3 if "no pride" then mechanicals prolly neglected too. Agree, walk away. However, if he had maintenance records, then I would consider it. Interior restoration in your location can be found at reasonable prices I would suspect. Also don't discount the appreciation of WB cars.

 

#1
Duh!

bone stock is the way to go.

Save some money however for a shop to inspect/replace the plugs, belts etc.....

 

+1 although bone stock suspension means it will need attention quickly.

If you like the color combination of #1 I would pursue it now! It's supposedly does NOT have a bad history...meaning everything should be straight, etc. You are in Socal and the car is local making it easier to progress through the transaction...you save at least a few hundred dollars from travel expenses. Ask someone here to meet you and do a quick Rennfax...if the car passes get a complete PPI and again an advantage as there are a number of great shops in Socal.

 

My vote as well IF you are not willing to search further. Personally, I'd add some $$$ and find one with half the mileage.

I'd find one where most if not all maintenance items were replaced within the last year or so; items such as ignition wires, distributor caps, rotors and drive belt, plugs, upper and lower valve cover seals.

Bone stock also means it hasn't been putzed around with by who knows who. You can always mod it to your liking, later.

 

Wait.

 

Agree with all. Run away from #3.

#2: if you really like it, get more details about the accident, see if owner has pics of the damage; if repair is well done which it seems to be from your description, I'd pay around $25k for it.

Also, benefit of 95 for S CA is OBD I, no CEL lights and codes to worry. You'd have an easier time passing annual inspection.

#1: See if dealer can provide PO info and contact. Fair price if owner can provide maintenance records showing major items already done. If there has been no major repairs (clutch etc all stock), then price is high by about $4-5k. I know some here will say their clutch and top end lasts 150k miles and going. My take is this is an unknown. A 92k car may not need it for a few more years or may need both in the next 6mos, in which case you're out $10 grand.

Regardless of which one you pick, or skip them all for other specimen, ALWAYS find out where the owner service the car. If it's not a known air-cooled specialist, RUN!! If it's a known P-car shop, call up the shop and chat w/ the guy to get his take on the car.

Also, drop price by $2k if it's a tip (it's unfair, but that's the US market).

Good hunting.

Second the guy who told you to pony up the spare change for a membership...

 

Being the contrarian, I like #3. If it passes a thorough PPI ( both mechanical and body) then the trashed interior is a great bargaining chip. Black interior bits are easy to find,and relatively easy to replace, and in the end you have an S for low 30's


Emerald

 

I would go with #2 out of any of those but only if it passed a very thorough PPI both for mechanicals and body/structural. A minor accident wouldn't scare me off if it was repaired correctly.