Torque Specs:

I was just out in the garage doing my first transmission and front differential fluid change. Holy mother of god! Did the pro mechanics who torqued down those drain bolts follow any kind of torque specs? I had to use a motherlovin' breaker bar.

I did the first oil and filter change last weekend and thought the same thing. I took a look at the bolts before I started and they were starting to round out. No freaking wonder. It makes sense now.

Ok, I have calmed down. Had to share.
--Michael

 

I hope you got the bolt out safely. Maybe have a new one handy for your next trans service.

 

All are out and ok. I will buy a new set for both front and trans next time. I just can't figure out why anyone would torque down the bolts like that. It makes little sense.
--Michael

 

I had the same issue with both tranny bolts. I had to put a supplemental bar on the wrench to get it to breaker bar length. Really tight!!

 

Oil change guys are the same with engine drain plugs. The oil change guy is deathly afraid the plug will come out and he will be blamed so over tightens it.

Then there was the time the oil change guy...forgot...to...put...oil...in... my friends gearbox. A touch worse than overtightened the plug.

A good lesson to consider DIY service.

 

OK so here's the conversation I had with myself before I finally bought the car:

"Are you prepared to take responsibility for the proper upkeep of this valuable heirloom you are about to possess? Can you pass it on as good as, or better than, when you got it?"

At that point I committed either to learn to do the DIY right (which is why I love Rennlist) or pay for the right work to be done, and to make sure it had been done. I couldn't just take the car and hand it off to someone who doesn't respect it as much as I do.

Off my soapbox.

 

That's the reason you should ALWAYS first remove the fill plug, then the drain plug...

 

Good point! When I was getting ready to do the front the fill plug it looked in bad shape. So I thought I'd start there. If I couldn't get it off I wouldn't be in trouble.

Also, the trans fluid looked like it hadn't been changed forever. I have no record of it from the POs so I guess it had been a long time. But on the plus side, the metal grit stuck to the drain plugs was very, very fine. I guess that is ok.

--Michael

 

Wait til you do rear rotors. 200# plus with zero room (unless you are one of the fortunate lift guys).

 

I mean the caliper bolts. Duh!

 

I bought a monster breaker bar at the plumbing supply and used it to do the rear axle nut. That is 360 ft/lb. That sucked.

 

Hmm...the caliper M12 X 1.5 bolts are only supposed to be tightened to 85 pound feet (and replaced in the front if undone).

 

I think the drain bolts must gall or bind somehow because most of the ones i do require a breaker bar. Its common sense to pull the filler plug first.

It you get one rounded out, i usually grind the head down until a thin piece of plug is left - the pressure comes off and the ground up plug can be removed.

Cheers

Mike

 

I think that might happen a little, but I don't have that problem once I torque the bolts properly. The subsequent oil or trans oil changes are smooth with no breaker bar drama.
--Michael

 

Right - but you do not wait up to 15 years before you do a transmission oil change - I have done 993's that have never had their transmission or front differential oil changed, and those are the ones that are more difficult. I agree, once you have undone the drain/filler the first time, subsequent changes are easier.

Cheers,

Mike