e9stibi

You can re-use the old cable. Just need to drill the little aluminum cap of, shorten the plasic with a putty knife and but the cap back on by crimping it with a screw driver to hold it in place. Than read on RL on how to synchronize the top. I did this 6 years ago and my top keeps working flawlessly.

The origianle cables are a design flaw due to the excessive heat extension of the cable. The newer ones are better but why spend some money, when the old cables that already had the heat extension can be re-used. GL.

NY32

I bought my 97 Cab Tip 9 months ago and love it. I had the key wouldn't come out and top issues right away. I am now dealing with my first real issue--a leaking ac evaporator coil. I am getting helpful advice here on that. Good luck.

95carrera

Thanks everyone for all the kind words and encouragement. Sometimes it is hard not to "freak out." Gotta remember to take deep breaths. LOL.

New problem is that now with the top down (now in manual mode) the alert light stays on the dash. The top cover was really hard to get on with the top down, almost like the top wasn't collapsing all the way down. Could that be why the alert light stays on, its not touching a sensor because it is not fully collapsed?

Any ideas?

Oh yeah, i tore my cover slightly trying to get it on. Deep breaths.

hn

With manual use, the top is free from the transmission so I don't think it's the sensor or anything related to motors.

Make sure the 2 pins (to align the top to the windshield frame when closed) aren't pushing against the canvas (when down) preventing it from dropping all the way down. The elastic (between the top and the liner) suppose to pull the bar and fold the canvas to clear the pins but it's probably not doing the job properly. Hope I am right, this is from memory.

Magdaddy

well...your attitude to deal with these little issues is perfect, for what thats worth. You realize, and utilize how much of an informational tool this site is...and how many actual "tools" respond here.

Take the time now, spend the money now...fix, replace, update everything that needs it. Then sit back, relax...and drive.

I got my C4S a little over two years ago, what the previous owner didn't address in his short ownership, I did. Well, almost 27K miles later(bought at 63-almost at 90K)besides the DME relay getting intermittant...the car has been absolutely flawless.

There is just something so guttural, so raw, yet perfect about these cars. You either get it, or you don't I guess. It is simply the most satisfying car I have ever owned, and pure joy every pedal application.

and don't forget the Fister Stage lll's for the appropriate aural enjoyment.

95carrera

HN, thanks that was exactly the problem. When it worked automatically I guess it pulled those folds away from pins better. When I folded it, I failed to make sure it wasn't pinched. It was, and it really opened up the small tear that was there making it a hole. Ugh. Those pins sit up inside a rubber seat and it wasn't hitting it just right causing it not to be flushed.

I am thinking about having local Porsche mechanic get cables back in working order. I opened up rear covers to motors and it looks like intimidating. I will search for "synchronizing top" as suggested and see what kind of real damage I can do. LOL

996scott

Hang in there it will get better. You will love it

murfysflaw

I did the same thing on my cab. The good part for me was the top was really getting old and needed to be replaced, but still, I felt terrible when I saw the hole I punched in there.

As others have said, I converted mine to manual operation, partly because of those pins. Since I had to go around and make sure it was folding properly anyway, it was actually easier to just operate it manually. Mine did the same thing yours did one day which triggered my initial move to manual. I did fix it so the power top would work again, but then converted it right back and stayed manual until I sold her when I moved back to power for the sale.

Good luck and ENJOY!

vincer77

I would suggest leaving the top in manual mode. You shouldn't drive the car with top down without the tonneau cover anyway, so if you get out to put it on, might as well lower the top manually and make sure it folds correctly. I also place a towel over the plastic window to minimize scratching it.

There is an arm in the top that has a couple of elastic bands that is supposed to help fold the top correctly. Replacing the bands should help the top fold properly. I have not done this yet, but will see where those are available.


As far as the light, the computer thinks the top is always up, but when it is down, the sensors tell the computer it is down, and therefore thinks there is a problem and gives the alert. A press of the "!" fixes that. IIRC, I took the bulb out of the open top idiot light so it doesn't stay on.

You will love the car. Just take care of the niggling issues and learn the idiosyncrasies and you will enjoy open motoring for many years.

BSL

/\ This.

When manually lowering the top, the motors aren't operating to the full retract position, sending a signal that the top is not in the up nor in the stowed position. Pressing the "!" button clears the main warning light (you just have the light within the clock illuminated at this point.

As can be read elsewhere, I like having the top in manual mode as it allows me to make sure that it is folding down correctly and not pinching any of the fabric in the resting pins.

Hopefully the gremlins are now out for you and you can go about just enjoying!

JJulian

Make sure you have a spare DME / fuel pump relay. To avoid another future drama. They are known to fail.