Falcondrivr

I cant believe that the car was still driveable...Just a wierd feel in the clutch...Anyone care to speculate as to how this happened?

matt777

What a mess! What shape was the TO bearing in?

chris walrod

Ear broke off the t/o bearing which pulled it cockeyed into the guide tube. That's my guess.

Jeff96-993

Your last drag strip adventure? That's the only thing that comes to mind.

IXLR8

What shape were the clutch release fork and pivot bearings in? If there was excessive play, it might have caused the release fork to be skewed during activation and the possible cause of the throwout bearing ear to snap while binding on the guide tube.

IXLR8

Don't forget to thoroughly clean those splines and apply the appropriate lube upon reassembly.

Stealth 993

Wow, that is messed up! Did it make a lot of grinding noises?

bobt993

Which clutch setup are your running? LWF setup uses the longer guide tube which that appears to be. The shorter guide tube is for the OEM setup (thicker). From the look of the grinding it looks to be about the difference in depth of the two parts. That will have put some trauma on the ears to the pivot shaft so either have them reinforced or at least inspected.

Falcondrivr

These were all new parts a year and a half ago. They now have 16,000 miles on them. It's the LWF, RS clutch and PP.
It really wasn't making much noise, just a strange feel and a slight screeing noise when the pedal was depressed...
@Chris: What would cause the ear to break off? It was normal driving, actually happened when I was coming down an off-ramp to a surface street....

bobt993

I think your seeing a cause and effect:


Here is a tech note from Pelican on the guide tube:


This is the guide tube that the throw out bearing is placed on. This should be replaced if significant wear is seen from the throw out bearing binding on it. Replacement of this part is cheap insurance against having to do another clutch job. For the 1987-89 Carreras, Porsche upgraded the throw out bearing guide tube and decreased it's outer diameter to 32mm. When performing your clutch job, you should check the outer diameter, and replace the guide tube if it's 32mm wide. The throw out bearing was upgraded to include a 2mm polyamide sleeve on the inside of the bearing, thus the guide tube diameter needed to be decreased by a corresponding amount. You must upgrade to the newer style guide tube, otherwise your throw out bearing may not fit.

Falcondrivr

Interesting. My wrench who is doing the job just told me the new bushings for the fork shaft are made of a pre-lubed bronze instead of plastic. He thinks the plastic part failed first causing the rest...

bobt993

Check the guide diameter. I think you will find it is to big. Also the bronze bushing upgrade kits I have used also replace the fork shaft and needle bearing on the passenger side with a bronze bushing, but your picture shows the needle bearing still in place along with the OEM shaft. I can take a picture of a kit to give you an idea. It may be fine, but I have not used a kit with both.

The TO bearing ear would get damaged due to the binding on the guide tube. It can also damage the bell housing so your lucky if that is all that is wrong. I think your seeing heat damage caused by the binding.