:: ECS Tuning :: Dread Taking Your Rotor Screws Out ?
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
:: ECS Tuning :: Dread Taking Your Rotor Screws Out ?
These "NEW" stainless steel screws, only offered exclusively through ECS will make your future brake jobs a cinch. Rotor screws can easily be damaged during the removal or from the heat the brakes make. When you need to replace your rotors, do it right, and always use ECS Stainless Steel Rotor Set Screws.
CLICK HERE for more information.
#2
Rennlist Member
Are these stainless steel screws stronger, weaker or the same strength as the stock ones? I find the issue has less to do with removal, provided anti-seize has been put on the threads, and more to do with shearing.
#5
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I have found that the shearing and stripping attributed to factory screws has less to do with the strength of the material, and more to do with its corrosion properties. A corroded screw is much weaker, as well as much more difficult to remove.
Our stainless screws will not corrode, and with a dab of anti-seize for good measure, will easily last the life of the car.
Our stainless screws will not corrode, and with a dab of anti-seize for good measure, will easily last the life of the car.
#6
Drifting
Ya. The impact screwdriver (you just whack it with a hammer for those that don't know) is one of the most surprisingly useful tool purchases I have made. I think mine was like $8 at HFT, no issues after years of hard use.
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#9
Rennlist Member
I have found that the shearing and stripping attributed to factory screws has less to do with the strength of the material, and more to do with its corrosion properties. A corroded screw is much weaker, as well as much more difficult to remove.
Our stainless screws will not corrode, and with a dab of anti-seize for good measure, will easily last the life of the car.
Our stainless screws will not corrode, and with a dab of anti-seize for good measure, will easily last the life of the car.
#10
I don't trust ECS and would never install a non-OEM part from ECS.
Obviously a rotor screw is not a critical component, but ECS is famous for selling poor quality made-in-China brake and suspension parts to the Audi/VW community.
Obviously a rotor screw is not a critical component, but ECS is famous for selling poor quality made-in-China brake and suspension parts to the Audi/VW community.
#11
Rennlist Member
FWIW, a quick Google search revealed this: http://www.resellerratings.com/store...ro_Car_Service
#12
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The OE rotors have a two extra threaded holes that, if the rotor is sticking (because of corrosion) to the wheel hub, you can screw these into which will push the rotor off the wheel hub.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thanks. I also received a PM from another member regarding the screws.
FWIW, a quick Google search revealed this: http://www.resellerratings.com/store...ro_Car_Service
FWIW, a quick Google search revealed this: http://www.resellerratings.com/store...ro_Car_Service
The 964 guys determined that shipping for four screws is over $11.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...crews-out.html
#14
Rennlist Member
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel fasteners have their place, but they can also be a real headache.
I have a large selection of stainless steel fasteners but I'm very careful as to where they get used.
I myself never use a SS fastener into an aluminium casting (valve cover fasteners, for example), even if an anti-seize is used. You can takes your chances if you wish.
I do not mind using stainless steel fasteners in a bolt-nut configuration where if they seize/gall, I can snap them and reinstall another. Try using a SS nylock nut and a SS bolt without an anti-seize; half the time they locked solid.
I have a large selection of stainless steel fasteners but I'm very careful as to where they get used.
I myself never use a SS fastener into an aluminium casting (valve cover fasteners, for example), even if an anti-seize is used. You can takes your chances if you wish.
I do not mind using stainless steel fasteners in a bolt-nut configuration where if they seize/gall, I can snap them and reinstall another. Try using a SS nylock nut and a SS bolt without an anti-seize; half the time they locked solid.
#15
Drifting
That being said, in areas where I'd really like to use stainless fasteners, what should one look for? Specific grades? Manufactured in certain locations?